dapiper

I finally gave up trying to redesign that TT (RIP) kit after it went out in a blaze of glory, literally. Be advised of the problem with the articulating carb, which heaves to and fro as it breathes. This reaction is to the flow forces which cannot be defeated. Don't even try to hold it down; it will tear the hose off the nozzle. I tried a bump hose and mounted the carb on slide rail and it still trashed the carb to turbo hose and caught fire. The water inj nozzle is a real POS. Loose it before it detonates from failure to supply ADI and blows your ring lands. Go with a commercial grade check valve with o-ring and fixed nozzle. I used a 1/8" Cu tube drilled to 0.032". Forget trying to jet that 600cfm dbl pumper. I got a whole box full of jets and power valves you can have. Carbs are square law metering with 3:1 turndown, not great for a wide power band from a turbo. I hope you are a masochist, then you will be in hog heaven.

I'll take one in 1/2" please.

I suspect thats one of John D'Armond's fabrications. He was into FRP manifolds there for a while.

Running cores in series will double the press drop and decrease delta T driving force on second core resulting in less heat transfer although same area. Of the three modes of heat transfer, conduction, convection and radiation, convection is main contributor for intercooling with the air to air films both in and outside the core the major resistances. These can be reduced by increasing flow speed up to a point and increasing temp difference. Increasing air velocity beyond so called turbulent flow or point of diminishing return will only serve to increase press drop. Increasing temp difference will increase heat transfer proportional to the log mean delta T temp diff. These are the physics. Each application is unique, however and depending on air flow and turbo efficiency and where your engine falls on compressor map which affects I/C inlet temp. Also ambient air temp will determine point of diminishing returns. A smaller I/C may prove more beneficial for lower boost on smaller motor. A larger I/C may be better for top end high boost where the inlet temp is greater and the flow velocity increases to raise the Reynolds number to turbulent thereby reducing film coeff resistance. The larger I/C may be inefficient at low boost, however where delta T and flow velocity are lower through the larger flow area.

Speeder is right on. I had the blue top 450cc Bosch pintle style on a batch fire ECU (squirts every crank rev) L28 custom turbo (mid turbo grind, 14"Hg at 800 RPM idle) and had no probs with idle in the 13:1 range. Then upgraded to PL9-550 Lucas RC disc style inj and could not idle above 11:1. Then switched ECU to sequential and was able to turn idle down to 14:1 easily. Nevertheless, idle quality not as good as b4, so checked pattern full open and observed narrow like garden hose with large drops. The disc is recessed in the nozzle which contributes to narrow pattern. Russ acknowledged that these inj designed for racing where narrow pattern is desirable.

I'm in West Chester; reply by PM.

Weather was nice this weekend so took my Z out to streach its legs and noticed that it crabs sideways while right rear tire spins. Does this mean my clutches are worn or something which renders my diff equivalent to open? I still get the clunk when turning tight at slow speed.

Where is the infamous pin that ultimately fails in the R200 when used in hi torque drag racing?

Optimal dwell is RPM dependant. I'll see if I can find a screen dump from my Picotech scope to post.

I drive my LS1 with 8ms dwell at idle to 4 ms at 6 k RPM with 90 % saturation, but current is near 10A at 7K RPM. On my Autronics ECU.

Get a Bosche EFI pump from any old Rabbit, etc from bone yard for $35.

Accurate, repeatable spark timing permits higher output on 93 octane fuel. More reliable than MSD and less parts and interconnection wiring. Obviously more dwell time, smaller package, shorter wires, less EMI.

I use the LS1 coils in wasted spark on a brkt mounted to valve cover bolts. Brkt was plazma cut then each coil mtg has angle brake for stiffness. See my pix in member pix. I can get more made. The 3 guys at SEZ that wanted one are you reading this?

I got over 400 hp on my N42 over 20 yrs of hard street and track use and only rebuilt bottom end twice. Used Aria's forgings and o-rings, otherwise stock and balanced.

Need clarification. Intake temp after I/C was 130F during cruising around town, but after adding insul to return pipe, temp dropped to 110F. Under low flow, return pipe exposure was adding heat back in after being cooled in I/C. This contributed to the turbo lag. I will datalog and post results later.

Stationary is better too, but temps quoted were while cruising. Used adhesive backed, foil clad urethane insul 1/8" with rating of R3. Will add another layer and advise. Hope it stays stuck. Was considering repl of I/C with loop back return (180deg U bend on one side) and running both supply and return tubes on drivers side like before, but AC in way. What so you think of increasing spacing betwen I/C and condenser and oil cooler. I thing I need at least an inch spacing and I/C needs to be out front.

I'm holding out for a tangential fed GT35R but need to solve the ext wastegate problem and avoid the fender well. What turbo is that Sean?

Who all is going. We should all have a HybridZ party.

Duh, yeah we found the yellow wire and problem fixed on my bud's Z. I dumped the elec gauges for mech long ago. Thanks Speeder. You going to Sez? We should take inventory who all is going and have a HybridZ party.

Need cam that peaks at 6K RPM and turbo to supply air efficiently above 70% flow map. The rest you already have. Can get 375 at 17 psi

If its a tail sniffer they run lean about a point. Need to install UEGO in down pipe or at least upstream of tail pipe.

Just installed cheap Ebay intercooler with 20X12" core, 50% bigger with 2.5" mandrel tube and experiencing major lag. Don't think its the extra volume, only about 0.2 CF larger for a total of 0.5 CF which the motor should pump up in less that a sec. Also installed stock AC. Now water temp up to 195 F in traffic and 180 F on road at speed in 95 deg day. Have 165 F thermostat. Have not checked press drop. Saw up to 150F under hood in traffic at air cleaner intake, which is also behind rad wash above and behind AC compressor. Need cold air intake but no room for air cleaner. Considering replacing rad support with tubing to liberate some space. Installer placed 5X12" oil cooler in front of I/C with 1/4" clearance; that has to move. Want to move I/C more forward, but now tubing won't reach. Suspect Raptor blow off valve may be leaking. Added line to unsprung side of diaphragm to upstream of throttle tube which seemed to help. Running return from I/C to engine from pass side behind top of rad thru S pipe; had to insulate tubing which lowered intake temp 30 deg F. Almost back to normal during evening runs with A/C off. Z was undrivable during day in SC heat. Wud post pix but forgot how. See member gallery's.