helghast7

I'm ready! Pm sent

Nice! Looking forwards to your after track opinion on the setup.

^not really, all this information is pretty dated, the swap has gotten so easy over the years that its pretty much plug and play, with the right know how and some luck, you could do the swap bare minimum for 5k.

My 78's engine harness was almost completely separate from the body harness, minus the wires for the coil and distributor i believe. Everything engine related is on another harness that comes into the engine bay from the drivers side. The computer even gets its own power source and relay outside of the fusebox.

I've had my californians for 2 seasons now and i'm happy with them. they vibrate a tad but nothing horrible, I'm just happy they stay put. I pushed them further up the door for better angles like mentioned earlier, definitely helps.

Just installed it this weekend, I love it! No kidding what so ever, once i connected all the sensors on the engine it was literally 4 wires to connect and she's running without a hitch. Like I said its nothing like a 240sx, whether you wire it yourself or you buy the harness, its not designed to replace the body harness like in the SX, you wire it as if you wanted the engine to run outside of the car, you keep all the factory wiring for the car. You simply give the engine constant power, ignition switched power, ground, starter circuit and fuel and thats it. Headlights are from the car, tails, turn signal, if you wire yourself so is the starting and charging wiring are all from the car.

After doing this swap myself I'll say this; you pretty much want to wire up the engine as if you want to run it off an engine stand. Personally I bought a wiring specialties harness, but even if you follow Chris' guide up further, its pretty much what your doing. These cars are too old and simple to have an integrated harness like a 240sx would.

You guys must be faring better than we are. Just can't seem to shake the cold, we had snow today again. Eshhhh.

Based on that picture compared to my motor I'd say Mckinney's mounts push the motor further back.

Honestly, for the power you want. I highly suggest selling the turbo, buying a cheap used stock turbo and sending it to pureturbos to have it rebuilt. They rate their upgrade to 450whp and it bolts onto everything factory minus the oil feed and return lines.

I don't know the dimensions of your tank but Aeromotive's Phantom kit dropped right into my 78 tank, only need to slightly modify the trunk and i'm good to go. Not sure if this link is any good but my photobucket doesn't seem to want to cooperate right now. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154746477740621&l=12ff477682

Hey by the way, I meant to ask this a while ago but I forgot. The discounted prices you give, like the one you gave me, are they discounted only if we order them all in one shot? Or can I purchase one or 2 at one time then the rest at another?

After reading that thread I'm still confident that this is the way I want to go in the future with my rb. Just saves money overall for my power goals.

Yeah, I can see that for a 432, probably not so much for even a mint regular fairlady though....not for a very long time.

Z or ZX? A little more info and some searching goes a long way.

Weird, I have the same mounts on my 78 with an eBay intake and I clear just fine.

Are you using custom mounts? I've only heard of people with rb26's having clearance issues with the intake.

Your emblems are cool, did you do it all yourself?

Not this second but I'd be game for a torsen unit at that price, so long as it truly is drop in and go and will also fit z31 axles like everyone else does. I wouldn't even mind if the ring gear was 12 mm instead of 10 since that is a simple fix. Given the 6-8 month wait, you can put me up for one. Would there be some kind of warranty?

Although this is a known issue, being as how ,as both you and I have come to the conclusion that this isn't an issue that we would probably even encounter. The disclaimer should be more for people heavily tuning and for coils in general, the second thread you posted showed that one person encountered 4/8 of his 514's took a dump on him. Regardless of which ls2 coil you use, unless tuning to extremes, both coils are an upgrade to the stock junk. That being said, having worked in the automotive industry for many years I've never seen either coil fail aside from some freak occurrence. I've had HD work trucks with well over 200k miles on factory 585's never skip a beat and worked vette's with 514's never have any issues either. If I had to guess, I'd say the hype is simply from the affordability/availability of the 585's over the 514's since theres a lot more yukon/silverado/sierra/suburban's in junkyards. Hell I got my coils for free when my boss put another motor in his yukon haha!

Thats interesting that you've read about issues with the 585's. I've only heard of people running into issues with ls1 coils. I've seen on NICO a few people running on factory specs running better than with stock coils with no issues on 585's.

I think your simplest solution would be to put a smaller filter and put some ducting in. Really the only way you can see how well your intake is doing is by installing 2 IAT's (1 before the intercooler and one in/near the manifold) and driving the car in different scenarios. Not only will that show you the temperature of the air coming in but how well your intercooler is really doing its job, which frankly is the only thing that really matters. I can tell you from my past rotary experience that ducting is probably the biggest help with this stuff, next to IC location which we already have a decent spot compared to most cars. My question for you is, real driving conditions, cruising speeds and WOT what are your intake temperatures now, before any changes?

I've done some reading on them when my boss had his notch back mustang. We wanted to bring another car for our drag day and contemplated making a turbo kit for it since he was building a 5.0 for it anyways. Everyone on their forums seems to think that its not worth turboing since they can't handle much more then around 8psi before something melts so we gave up and brought one of our grand nationals, my z and a vette. Personally If I had to pick an I4 I'd choose an s2000 motor, they make good power NA and do very very well with forced induction. My good friend was running about 440whp on all stock internals for a few years before parking that one and getting an s30 lol.

I'd be interested if the price was right, real quaife's go for about 1300 if i remember correctly, and although obx is cheap, the quality control and fact that you need to then purchase the upgraded parts from someone else just to make it work is kind of a turn off. It would be nice to see some company do something in the middle.

so the rings are letting stuff through on a fresh rebuild? something stinks.....something that makes you want to look up the definition of insanity.