helghast7

Thats actually quite odd honestly, I've done business with them quite a few times and I've never waited longer then a day for a reply. I know they were closed for roughly 2 weeks after the holidays for reorganizing but from the sound of it, you've been trying to reach them before that. Have you tried FB? Their usually on that often.

Is anyone still making custom emblems? I might have something I want made.

I'd be curious as to what's the smallest rim these can fit, but other then that I like it a lot.

Still kicking myself for not jumping on this when I had the chance .

So I'm guessing your running a fuel cell then since thats an internal pump?

I bought aeromotive's phantom kit that I installed into my tank and I'm using 3/8 nylon (plastic) fuel lines for the rest of it, stock fuel rail and regulator and a 3/8 fuel filter, I threw out all the old fuel components.

John you're absolutely correct. Its all about power to weight ratio. My original intention was to merely state that the vehicle in questions front brakes can handle the stopping energy needed at the vehicles weight range at an estimated acceleration and power range before said vehicle required upgraded brakes. And I only stated such estimate because I assumed that people with the knowledge and ability to understand such data could use it to their advantage so that they wouldn't wade into uncharted territory only to find it inadequate for their use. I suppose the saying still stands correct about assuming judging by the response.

This is getting far off topic, but you with your theory a miata should always beat a corvette and a gtr in a road race.

All I was trying to do was give as much information on the calipers in question as possible. I gave the weight of the car in question and the average power levels of said car the factory brake system can handle before said car requires larger brakes. Being as how our cars and the FD are similar in weight both of these could be of use to someone that knows what to do with the data. And power levels do matter for brake systems in pretty much any form of racing, a 120hp car can only make it to 80mph before needing to brake to enter turn A where a car with 300hp can make it to 110mph before needing to brake to enter the same turn which puts more load on the brakes and tires causing them to fade and overheat. It's a piece of information I'd like to know before changing brakes. Though I'm sure most people just stick to factory because its safe and simple and the rest just go to whats shinny.

Always interesting to see people here have use for Rx-7 parts. Little info on these calipers for those that want to try this out. Both FC (87-91) turbo and FD(93-95) came with the 4 piston fixed front calipers which are completely interchangeable. The ONLY difference between the 2 models is the older FC calipers had cooling fins on them. However after much discussion and testing on Rx7club they found minimal gains at best for the older cooling fin type, so really any ones you get will be fine. Just have to grind off the mazda emblems on them lol. Oh I almost forgot, just as people say here that our stock brakes are good for decent power, for the FD they tell you on rx7club that the factory brakes with good pads and rotors are good for up to but not maxed out at 500whp before any real brake fade would be noticed and thats coming from a car that weighs roughly 2800 lbs wet factory.

Which rear silvermine kit are you guys talking about? the regular or the stage 4?

Yes very helpful, thank you tons!

I'd love to see what you guys are doing to your rails to make them fit. I'm a visual person.

PM sent. Thanks again.

Damn your quick lol, did you see my edit? I left that out, helps make it look nicer.

Whats an auzzie?

Nasty looking? Car show judges in canada jack up the car and look underneath? All jokes aside its a lot less invasive then cutting the floor off and rewelding in new boxed metal especially when were talking about an inch or 2 of room. That being said if you get a large flat, strong surface and put it against the tunnel and hit that it will push in the entire area instead of leaving obvious hammer dents.

Do it the chevy way, big hammer solves all!

Always oppressed I swear lol Good Idea though, unsure of what the common sizes that fit my s30 but I was looking at: All Revolution series 160mph gps spedo with fuel level (turn signal/ high beam) 10k tach 100psi oil pressure w/warning 120-260F w/warning Boost/vac gauge 30inhg-30psi w/warning Hope thats all the info you need for the quote. Thanks for your time, Dave

Cant wait till I'm ready to order these!!!

Trust me, after owning a rotary for years, you have to be doing some really really REALLY jacked up sh*t for an officer in NJ to do something like that. I've been pulled over in my FD by sherif's, state trooper's and local cops, no cats running 10.5 afr on idle and so rich it would make your eyes water after only a few seconds and not once did any of them ever ask about emissions. I have gotten a few compliments though lol. Come to think of it im pretty sure me and a few of my rotary friends passed by some cops popping 2 foot flames and they didn't do anything. That being said its unlikely you would get that lucky....moral of the story, they know going in that the car is old, its highly doubtful they will care much or even know what their looking at if you pop the hood. And now that NJ cut the budget on state inspections its even easier to pass.

I'm really glad they fit so well for so little effort considering. I just hope they fit as easily in a 280...worst case I do own a big hammer haha!

I've got a complete l28 with 5 speed for sale thst I just pulled out last month, includes headers and a lightened flywheel I could sell for 450 I'm in belleville so I'm fairly close to nyc

He still makes them, I got mine delivered a few months ago, real beauty. He gets backed up from time to time but even then he's fast.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/addenum-to-rb20-25-26-igniter-swap-to-vg30-z32-j30-igniter-t251366.html or http://forums.nicoclub.com/another-successful-ls1-coil-swap-t435099.html Quick searches show that most everything has been figured out already one way or another. And as I've said in my previous post, if the person is too lazy to search for what others did in finding USDM replacement parts its only a quick call/email to rawbrokerage to order from their warehouse in Florida. If this was the year 2000 and Stony and others were first considering doing these swaps I'd say I believe you, but this is a well beaten path by now.