Leon

Nicely laid out, zero.

What are you trying to accomplish? In the given formula, n (the integer) represents the "resonance node" as they called it. A lower number means a lower frequency, i.e. harmonic. n=1 is the "base" resonant frequency, aka the first harmonic. Also, temperature has a fairly large effect on the speed of sound through air, but there are tables and formulas that are easily available to calculate that.

Look around on CL, there are often people cutting up their cars. See if you can find someone with a good panel, or even post a WTB ad here. If you're worried about valves sealing to the seat, you can lap them yourself. Just be gentle, there's no need to remove a ton of material. Verify straightness and you're set. Shoot, 65deg is beach weather. I heard that the temps were a record high for Long Beach, you valley-dwellers are nuts! I was dripping sweat just standing there. I did get it clayed, buffed and waxed and the paint looks so much better. I got lucky in that I called up an auto detail shop in SLO (Central Coast Auto Spa; loved these guys. If you need a detail in SLO, go to them ) and got it in that same day, on the Friday before the show. Still haven't had time to look at my photos, I'll try to make time tonight...

Unfortunately, I don't have that lower body piece. Maybe Tabco makes on? I do have stock L24 valves from my E31 head, but I'm not sure if I'll need them or not. I could possibly pull some from my extra heads, but time is not on my side right now! You may be able to find some pretty cheap, there are bound to be some sources online. JCCS was awesome, even though it was hotter-than-hell (~100deg)! I just haven't had a chance to post my pics up, let alone look at them yet. The 260Z miraculously took 3rd in "Best Z" (exc. 240Z) category!

I remember a guy getting his 280Z painted at a shop in the Easy Bay somewhere, sounded reputable and his car looked good even though it was done on a lower budget. Search around for local body shops, I bet you'll find one that fits your needs. Found the one I was thinking of: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread41992.html

Nice job, Matt! Looks like you are on your way.

Nice, is it driveable now?

Beautiful work, it's coming together very nicely!

Ray, The ones with the tab on top are likely 280Z 5-speeds and the ones with the tab below (6 o'clock) are the ZX units. There are other clues like the exhaust hanger ears underneath the shifter (2 means 280Z), the shifter bushings (ZX shifter has big, yellow plastic insert), and fill plugs (right side is late ZX, AFAIK).

Thanks Brady! Your turn!

Might as well post a dyno vid! This was the first run of the day, to set the new baseline comparing the old and new exhaust.

Thanks again Ben, it's been an absolute pleasure dealing with you! I finally used the lights at night a few days ago and what a difference. I'll see you on Saturday at JCCS!

It went well! Picked up about 10lb-ft and 10hp peak, and gains across the board! I ran it for about 2 hours and was heat soaked towards the end, so we shut it down. I really need a heat shield. I'll have to plot the results up in Excel later. Probably the biggest advantage of the MJ is the part-throttle cruise torque. I picked up gobs of torque at partial-throttle, gas mileage will considerably increase and throttle transitions have gotten crisper. Cruise and around-town driving requires less throttle. The other advantage of MJ is setting up idle. By slightly retarding timing at idle, and advancing it at lower and higher RPM, the idle has become more stable. I love the MJ, nothing like sitting in the car, on the dyno, pressing CTRL UP and seeing torque increase as you up the advance. Centrifugal weights, springs, advance slots, spark scatter? What's that?

The '72 110 cars were available with either black or white interior, not just white. White interiors are definitely less common than black.

You're not allowed to make any changes upstream of the catalytic converter, unless you have that sticker that Randy mentioned.

Correct, cooler (denser) air will lean out your mixture. Humidity has a lesser effect.

Yeah, a bit rich so I'm probably losing a few more horses. I'll try to rejet for 12.5-13:1 AFR and see where it gets me. Don't worry, the duals will stay for now!140lb-ft at 3500rpm from an L24 on an load-bearing dyno is pretty healthy, nonetheless.

Dyno Testing a 260Z - Part 2 This is an analysis based on my dyno testing from yesterday (9-8-12). Test Parameters The reason behind testing was to baseline the Nissan Motorsports header/dual pipe exhaust against the stock manifold/single 2.5" that I baselined on page 2. Also tested was the same setup with advanced (from stock) timing, then with air cleaners removed, and finally with EDIS/Megajolt controlling ignition. The settings are as follows: early 260Z with 1972 L24/E88 that was installed by the previous owner stock cam and internals triple 40DCOE-18 Weber carbs with K&N-style filters (no heat shield) Cannon long-runner manifold Nissan Motorsports header with crush-bent true dual 2" pipes Mobil1 synthetic 10W-30 in engine, Redline 75W-90 in transmission (GL-4) and differential (GL-5) Stock 260Z distributor or Ford EDIS run by Megajolt for ignition Testing was done at Dito's Motors in South San Francisco on a Dynomite load-bearing dyno. Robert and David are great guys to work with! Test Settings: Same as page 2, but with a Nissan Motorsport header and 2" twice pipes Results: SOLID lines are the initial baseline DOTTED lines show the new exhaust The new setup made a peak of 130.5lb-ft @ 3350rpm and 115.8hp @ 5600 rpm, compared to the initial baseline of 136.3lb-ft @ 4100rpm and 120.8hp @ 5150rpm. Analysis The results are not unexpected, the single 2.5" did better than the separate duals. It is worth to note that the Nissan Motorsport header brought the torque peak down by about 750rpm when compared to the stock manifold and 2.5 pipe setup! This is caused by the header's very long primaries. The powerband feels like a mini-V8, gobs of torque down low, but still likes to rev. However, mid-range torque took a definite hit. Final Thoughts The twice pipe system does not have a merge collector, which would give gains across the board. Integrating a merge collector can also shift and improve the torque peak. The next iteration of the engine will be jetting the carbs (more for partial throttle cruise, WOT AFR is 11-12), putting in a more aggressive cam to take advantage of the header and to let the engine breathe better at higher rpm. I'd also like to build a single-pipe system utilizing this header. Eventually, I will build up an L28 to drop in. Other Notable Data (not exhaust related): Advancing distributor timing gave peak gains of 2.1lb-ft (132.6lb-ft) and 4.3 hp (120.1hp) Removing the dirty air cleaners gave additional gains of 3.4lb-ft (136.0lb-ft) and 4.2hp (124.3hp) Using EDIS/Megajolt to tune the spark curve gave another additional 4.4lb-ft (140.4lb-ft) and 3.6hp (127.9hp)

I didn't see that point at all in your previous post. No one, including you, ever mentioned using 5W-30 in an L-series. First off, you said: Not sure where this warning comes from, as there is no merit behind it. In fact, that is a recommended viscosity in the FSM. Then you go off on a tangent about some guy putting the wrong oil in his car. FWIW, I use a fully synthetic 10W-30 in my nicely running, beaten up, who-knows-how-many-miles L24. No issues for over the 2 years and thousands of miles. That reminds me, I need to change the oil!

Nice choice, mine is an '04 as well. You'll love it!

Tell me about it! Tools will be packed for sure, as well as spare parts and a fire extinguisher (always in the car). You're definitely right about that! Dyno comes first, then we'll see what happens.

I could just imagine having to take 4 hours to get the exhaust off and on, and stipping the last fastener that I install. Not to mention worrying about the condition of the newly installed components over a 600mi road trip. I'm not about to willingly go through that stress!

Thanks Bill! Congrats on pulling the pins out, welcome to the club! I tried the typical method of inserting a hacksaw and cutting the steel inserts out but that was a friggin pain. I ended up walking the LCAs over to my neighbor's house. He has air tools. A die-grinder made quick work of it. We used a grinding bit that could fit into the bushing cavity, cut a slot or two in it and pounded it out. Good luck!

Good call.

Nice, that's going to be a sweet setup!