evildky

On the topic of shipping USPS Priority offers tyvek envelopes which they will supply for free. You can even order a pile of them and they will deliver to your home for free (same for all shipping supplies). They should ship pretty cheap, i've received a number fo shirts shipped this way.

Qty:1 Short Sleeve T Thirt Size: L Color: Lapis Zip: 40204

The Hako at the Eneos booth was awesome as well just with a single cam L6. The linkage for the RHD vehicle to the triples on the L6 looked a bit "Rube Goldbergesque"

All you need is a 280zx turbo donor, or just the turbo, injectors, ecu, harness, exhaust manifold and oil pan. thats 180 hp stock, crank up the boost and you can get 200 whp pretty easy, add an intercooler and you can get about 250 whp. any more than that and you'll need to upsize injectors and deal with some sort of upgraded management, and likely head studs, and MLS gasket. Or you can get some dumpy v8 of your choice and a spool of welding wire and get to work.

That's what the guy at the OSG booth quoted last year. He was a little light on a technical knowledge, he might well have been off on price as well. It's not advertised anywhere that I have found. I've found a blog that quoted the head at $32k and another at $30k. Rumored production numbers in the single digits the price might go up every time someone actually tries to buy one.

They had the same setup in the black S30 last year, they dyno sheet showed 376 hp, not sure if that was supposed to be crank or flywheel. I saw this car and just assumed it was the same didn't bother looking at the display for additional info. The guy last year claimed the inner finder restricted airflow on the S30, the hako engine bay is even smaller and the hako was of course RHD only, The S30 would have fit better if they had made the head flow the opposite direction wiht the carbs in the left hand side and exhaust on the right hand side. It is definitely a thing of beauty. Last year the OSG rep said the head was about $10k and the turnkey engine package was about $30k. sweet as they may be I am resigned to never owning one.

The G nose often trims a bif off the front lower edge of the fender still the wrong offset, just someone wanted reverse offset wheels bad enough to make it work. No reason for wheels that narrow to have that much offset.

Wheels are wrong offset. Shoulda been closer to zero.

Why not take them to a machine hop and have them milled flat?

Not a fan either, FLares that don't cover the rear of the tire are the very definition of a ricer mod, looks over function. Also not super impressed with the build quality of the" ZDREAM" car. Don't get me wrong, it's a very nice car but just about every car at SEMA is detailed to the nth degree. They apparently painted the car before cutting the wheel wells out for the rear flares, then didn't bother repainting the welds on the inside, you could see the exposed welds and burnt paint through the hatch.

The sign at the both claimed a Robello 3.3L with a dyno chart showing 376.87 HP and 281.82 TQ. Peak HP was at about 7700 RPM and fell off from there to 9k rpm. The guy I spoke with seemed a bit light on technical info and eventually just handed me a brochure.

The BS about the early car having a different offset annoys me. That and the talking up how the strut bar made the car handle so much better. Otherwise pretty mild build, nice to see someone tackle a car that isn't one of the 12 domestic models that overhauling rotates through.

true inspiration

If I were you I'd keep the 81 trigger wheel and add an aftermarket sensor, ditch the distributor and run the coil packs. The problem with the 81 is that the sensor and ecu are rare and unobtainable should something fail. the problem with the 82-83 is that the distributor is rare and expensive, and if you plan to run a coil pack the distributor portion is redundant.I'm not sure what kind of trigger wheel is on the 81 but chances are it can be used if not it can be replaced by an off the shelf wheel machined to fit. I'm not sure what kind of sensor it had but I know it's rare and it shouldn't be too much work to adapt a standard cheap replacement in it's place.

similar to mine as well, I didn't run an air filter just open turbo inlet

They should fit but you'll need to adapt or swap the companion flange on the stub axle.

CAS? I know the 81 is unique in that is uses a crank mounted CAS whereas the 82-83 have an optical sensor inside the distributor. I've seen the optical 82-83 fail intermittently, just wondering if your cas signal is consistent?

You need the r200 mustache bar from a 280Z when putting any long case R200 into any S30. The pickup points on the finned cover as exactly the same as the smooth one, the finned cover just has more volume at the bottom necessitating the lower tie bar to be modified or replaced with one that has the added clearance needed. I can not tell you what fits with the RT mount but with the stock pinion mount, the r200 mustache bar fits just fine with either cover on the diff.

Start hounding anyone eiht a parts car someone will have an add on a/c bracket, although some fo these were very crude and you might opt to just fab your own.

There should be no pressure from the pedal to the pushrod at rest also should be nearly no play. When you begin pressing the pedal the rod should contact the plunger inside the master almost immediately. The pedal at rest should rest against it's stop. When you depress the pedal the slave should move immediately. The clutch fork at rest should be holding the TO bearing against the tines with the pressure plate with almost no pressure. with all this doing as it should when you press the pedal it should move the slave and push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch. If everything appears as I described and you yet you do not get enough travel either there is air in the lines (it can happen), a weak seal in the slave or master, too short of TO collar (there are 3, and afaik only the mid size is still available), or you got a bad PP, happened to me once, the tines were just bending under full pedal.

All the old dealer add on kits placed the a/c compressor on the passenger side, I've tossed a few of these over the years. If you keep it in the zx position one of the lines goes to the core support for the condenser anyhow, running the other line beside it isn't a big deal, but it is quite crowded there with intercooler and air inlet piping.

To be clear, you problem is the clutch will not disengage, correct? This seems to pop up a lot, aftermarket masters tend to have slightly shorter pushrods, also I've seen the hole in the pedal elongate after 40 years of hard use. Look for play at the hole in the pedal if there is none, and your clevis is adjusted all the way out yet not preloading the TO bearing you might simply need a longer pushrod or longer clevis. Just be sure you have it adjusted with no preload on the to bearing, if the to bearing is pushing on the tines of the PP while at rest you'll burn up that clutch in no time. Less likely but I've had bad pp's that were way way too stiff.

Sounds like the typical afm issue, check the connectors forst might be that simple.