evildky

To be clear, you problem is the clutch will not disengage, correct? This seems to pop up a lot, aftermarket masters tend to have slightly shorter pushrods, also I've seen the hole in the pedal elongate after 40 years of hard use. Look for play at the hole in the pedal if there is none, and your clevis is adjusted all the way out yet not preloading the TO bearing you might simply need a longer pushrod or longer clevis. Just be sure you have it adjusted with no preload on the to bearing, if the to bearing is pushing on the tines of the PP while at rest you'll burn up that clutch in no time. Less likely but I've had bad pp's that were way way too stiff.

Sounds like the typical afm issue, check the connectors forst might be that simple.

If the car runs well with the chts unplugged and it's nto really cold out, you have a problem. With the CHTS unplugged the ecu should be dumping mass amounts of fuel, could be a bad ecu. Possibley a weak fuel pump or bad fpr.

Start by placing your fixed items, then locating the others where you want them then just runt eh wires ina way that makes sence to you. I placed the MS ecu inisde the glovebox and the relay box on the battery tray along with the msd box, I ran the injector, distributor wiring straight back tot he firewall then over to the battery tray area. In the 280 it might be a better optiont o locate the ecu and relay board in place of the stock ecu and run the wires to the firewall then over the master cylinder and through the stock hole int he firewall. I did also drill a hole in the inner finder beside the clutch master so I coukld run wires to the coil in the stock location. Just take your time and run one thing at a time, leave a little slack int he wiring, and once it's all run start bunchign up allt he stuff that runs along the same path.

It's very unusual to port and polish an N47, but as stated you're buying the parts and getting the motor for free.

Sounds like you have a couple of issues goign on. Not wanting to start up is usually the CHTS, when the car is cold try unplugging the chts and see if it starts better, if so you have a bad chts. Once the car is runnign right the idle issues will hopefully follow. The lights ont he dash are likely a bad circuit inside your alternator which requires the alternator be replaced.

I was suggesting getting coil springs in the correct free lenght to fit inside the stock strut. The stock spring perch and upper mount aren't a perfect fit for 2.5" coil springs but they'll fit and if the free length is correct they shouldn't move or rattle. I suppose he could buy coil springs slightly shorter than stock and a threaded collar and perch to take up the slack and even app pre load but thats would double the cost, standard coil over springs tend to be $50-60 each, perches and collars are also readily available but since he was lookign for an OE fitment I figured he wanted the cheapest easiest solution which in my mind would be a 2.5 x whatever free lengh by whatever sprign rate he deems suitable.

Gabe makes quality parts at reasonable prices and is easy to deal with, T3 all the way!

Why not just measure the free length and order coil over springs in the free length and weight you want? Thinking a 10" free lenght is aobut right, run 700 lb/in and it won't move much.

Thats just a terminal fitting, and it's only used on the 280's, IIRC sub harness hooks from there to the coil.

I'll tell you that that turbo will support a lot more power than those 370cc injectors. I also didn't see mantion of arp headstuds or metal hg but if you're breaking ring lands I suspect they've been upgraded. If you're breaking ring lands it's a timing, heat or lean issue, forged pistons are always a good idea but you need to get the car on a dyno or upgrade to managment with datalogging so you can figure out which of these issues is the culprit.

ScottyGNZ did it years ago and documented it. Do a search and use a time machine. He narrowed allt he C4 bits to fit under the S30, the S30 still required major surgery to accept this type of IRS, Scotty's car was a purpose built drag car.

A lot of us do use vertical flow intercoolers. There was a great thread abotu this years ago here on hybridz, and it was determined then taht the vertical flow was more efficient, unfortunately at that time vertical flow units were pretty sarce, treadstone offers good quality vertical flow intercoolers at decent prices.

The 11mm vs 14mm refers to the diameter of the opening needed in the fuel rail to fit the top of the injector. The bottom of all top feed injectors are all the same, avoid side feed or dual feed injectors. SDS has some good reading on their site if you haven't read all that yet.http://www.sdsefi.com/techrail.htm Ross engineering sells lots of injector bungs, drill bits for driling your own, and other bits for making intakes and fuel rails. http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectorbungs.html

tangelo?

If the wheel arched are rotted, it's not a big buck car. It will never be a big buck surviver, it could be a big buck resto but he's asking for cheap and easy solutions.

The thing that doesn't line up is the bolt holes for the power booster, it changed a couple of times. Is you car a series 1 chassis? Whats your chassis number? Do you plan on running a power booster? You can drill new holes in the firewall, or re drill your pedal box.

Just to be clear, this car has had a 5 speed swap and you have had it in 5th gear before right? I noticed it was a 76 and they of course did nto come with 5 speeds.

The injectors work on saturated voltage and fire on a square wave signal. You need noid lights, a logic probe or similar to detect the trigger.

Don't let the vin# stop you. Low vin survivor is big bucks and should be preserved, low vin been cut and welded back together not so much. Car #330 has cut out camber plates, it's easier to fix a quarter panel than a strut tower if you ever decided to restore it. Also car #76 has the cowl cut up to accept an aftermarket heat and air combo! Make the car yours.

The patch panel is avaiable, unless you plan on running fatty tires taht require flaring I'd just replace the bad metal.

The LSD is a definite need if you expect to be fast. After driving a modified C6 Corvette I found that while I had better power to weight ratio their braking and turn in was so far beyond my car it wasn't even a comparison. That's when I stepped up to bigger wheels and tires, granted I might have gone to the extreme. I also ran 440lb springs up front and 350lb rears with fatty sway bars front and rear. The Hankook RS-3 is a fantastic tire if you aren't ready to step up to R Compounds but whatever you run you need to try running something wider. Search for what you can find form the FP 240Z's they run near the top of the heap at a national level.

No. Completely different animals, the upside is all the z31 harnesses are interchangeable, n/a and turbo are identical.

A master from a series 2 chassis will work but the lines are reversed and you'll have to persuade them into place.