evildky

this si a common issue, you can clearance the metal or use alayback shifter, I've even seen one shifter that was cut and offset for clearance

most likely you have a broken grund and your tails are grounding trough your illumination circuit, unplug your tail lights, and see if the dach lights still come on wiht th ebrake pedal, the chassis ground for the tails is under the floor above the gas tank IIRC, the stock ground wires also are all held together with simple crimp connectors anc corrosion could have comlletely deteriorated the connection, try isolatign the ground wires fomr the tails and routhgin them to a good ground

youcan't acuratelyu remove only the paint and leave the pimer, you cna try but you'll be better off just sanding the whole car (and if it's only one coat of the ritgional car you cna actually just paint on top of it after sanding) trying to sand the car and nto getting to metal is nearly impossible, just plan to prime the car

I cut my links, it's nt a big deal, just take th elink apart, and shorten the tubular spacer that goes int he middle of the link, I think mine had to be cut down to about .75" then just put it all back together and put the bolt in fomr the top, no welding needed, not sure what you were thinking of welding but it's as simple as shortinging the tube and inverting the bolt, if the bolt hanging too low through the lca just cut it off as well

holy crap this is an old thread, the L28 T5 has proved itself to be better than the nissan 5 speed, the Z31 T5 has a much more severe neckdown on the input shaft, the L28 t5 has proven to be dependable up to around 400 whp, most of the people who swapped to the nissan 5 speed after blowint a T5 promptly blew the nissan 5 speed

if memory serves there are 2 different pickups but both shoudl be compatible with both versions of stock oil pans (mid and rear sump) but I believe only the 280zx style pickup is compatible with the azc oil pan

they weren't factory, but they were a dealer option, somtimes the inset is painted white, they are often incorrectly called black pearl wheels, which is incorrect but might help you locate a set

At last check CCW's $2200 a set which is only $550 a wheel, so you won't have to spend too much time working that corner plus tires plus a two thousand dollar body kit..... plus coil overs plus when you have wheels that big you're gonna want willwoods

The st and many other modern classes were added to fit more popular mods found on tadays cars. My understanding was that the natural order of progression was: stock, street prepared, prepared, modified. Each class allows mods from the lesser classes plus it's own. The st, sm classes were drawn form what the SEB thought would fit popular mods found on modern cars

you are of course correct, I never ran bsp, just going by what I've seen in local bsp cars, it's odd that stock has to run stock rprings, and I know prepared can run coils but i would have thougth sp would be a middle ground, guess not

stock ecu sucks in general, if you want to make any power eitehr swap to carbs or megasquirt or similar stand alone

the 280ZX and the Z31 both used 4 bolts to hold the front of the diff to the crossmember

looks liek an R230, I don't think the R200 used taht pinion flange

I believe BSP allows for fender rolling but no flares and aftermarket springs but no coil overs, I don't think you can fit a 13 wheel over your stock brakes, but the smaller diamter is gine if you need the extra gear advantage, the problem is if you find yourself at the top of secone gear a lot now, you might find the smaller diameter wheel forces you to do mroe thrid gear up and down shifting wiuth larger diamter wheels you are adding upsrung weight, which can slow you down if you feel you are short on power now it will get worse I'd think a 16 x 9 could be made to fit and offers additional width at a size where tires that can use that width are avaialve, you won't find any 265 tires in a 14 or 15 diameter

press yu did remove the bolts form the back right???

http://store.zraceproducts.com/mountinghardwareparts.php

i don't think those will fit

well done, glad to see one actually done and driving

find a welder! if you can't weld it then you need to have it welded, there are no other practical options

another vote for crossmember bushings, might also want to look at the trailing arm bushings

I run 3/8 feed and return, it's mroe than enough for your needs, I think most people run the smaller return to better match the return on the tank, I added a new return bung to my tank

um, try reading the stickies int he megasquirt section

chts causes stupid rich condition

i believe thetoolwarehouse.net sells their version of the "logic probe" for around $40, which is about 1/3 of what it goes for on the truck

I assume you have good plug wires and that cross arcing isn't an issue? also the rotor and cap in good condition? it always puzzeled me how any engine can be so sensetive to a 1 or 2 degree rotation of the cao in relation to a rotor than has a half inch wide electrode at the end, just wondering is the car can be originating form off center due to damage or wear or whatever from my experience when the cas fails it's intermitant for a very short time befor ecomplete failure