evildky

a +15 would hit non coil over springs, it might clear the fenders just barely, might need a bit fo rolling

sunroof adds weight, reduces regidity, the stock roof is convex and a sunroof is not, and no collector wants a car thats been cut up, thanfkfully there are lots of no collectible Z's on the road

on my series 1 chassis the lines were top and bottom and the bottom was feed IIRC, but the returnwas noticably smaller, I had constant fuel staration issues and sumped the stock tank

a clogged return line coudl cause high fuel pressure yielding a rich condition, a bad or disconnected O2 sensor causes a rich condition, an a bad or disconnected CHTS will cause severe rich to the point of flooding a warm engine, it;s on the lower thermostat hosing, it's the oen with 2 wires looks liek a fuel injector plug

definitely NOT 350Z

not many peopel willing to cut of their core support to fit a big fatty turbo, gotta find a hardcore drag racer willign to sacrifice their core support to fit that thing

been years since I got mine but he was prompt as i recall, of course I ordered by e-mial so I had confirmation right off

then your problem or at least one problem is on that circuit, what circuit was it? something on that circuit is causing a short

?? I had forza's in my 240 and they sat lower than stock, I did remove the stupid spacer's betweent he track and the seat rail but I'd assume you did that first,

it's most ikely a vac line problem, it's very common, there is a vac controlled dashpot against the firewall inline wiht the heater core hoses, and there is another line that goes throught he firewall closer to the battery, it tends to get hard and break on either side of the firewall, if the hoses hceck otu, th eone going throught he firewall leads to a valve body and dashpts ont he trans tunnel just above and to the right of the drivers right foot, the dashpots stock or get brittle cna crack no linger able to move as they shoudl to close the heat door flapper

the stock injection system on both the n/a and turbo adds fuel based on metered air, if the car has the turbo ecu, injectors and mas it should work, the turbo isn't there to draw enough air to flood the engine, there is at least one person here running turbo electronic's and injectors on an n/a wiht good results

the fusible links fuse the feeds to the fuse box as well as other items, if you continue to blow links either the short is betweent he link and the fuses int he fuse box, or you have higehr value fuses thant he links and the short is on the other side, also excessive amp draw can blow the link if distributed across a number of fuses

am i missing somethign? the only hint of damage I can see appears to be a creasin on the inside of the passanger side frame rail, put it on a rack to get it straight, if the cosmetic crease bothers you cut it out and weld in new metal

ditch the resonator, just put in a decent straight through mufflerer

I believe you are talking about the ground wire that hooks to the alternator, or the ground that hooks to the frame inner fender near the starter below the battery, I'm going fomr memory here so forgive me if I'm wrong but the thick positive wires are all white/ red stripe and the grounds are black with yellow stripe

I stop tuning when my a/f curves are where I want them to be

to get a pari at that price ti's junkyard or pep boys junk

an intercooler can also drop 100 degrees, my old laptop sadly died but I had datalogs of an L28ET at 13 psi with no intercooler and intake temps peaking at 220 degrees! with the intercooler and 20 psi I was only peaking at 150 degrees, only 70 degrees leff but 7 psi more boost at peak 510six definitely knows his stuff and has the time slips to prove it but meth is more of a track tool, an intercooler is more of a street car thing, it never goes empty wheny ou need it

sorry, all these Z's blend together, been a long time since I had stocn managment on an L28ET, my Z32 pipes the some fothe crak case vents itn tohe pipe bewteent he mas and the turbo inlet

not all corbeaus are sold in pairs, forza's are sold individually

nope, can't be reversed, you can however cut the threaded sectin off of that pass side unit and weld it to your driers side unit, pretty much the same operation as sectioning the strut housings

lol, whihc is why a boost controoler and an intercoler are a better mod than NO2 on a turbo engine

oil in the turbo inet pipe would have to cme fomr the crank case vent by the distributor if i recall the stock piping configuration correctly, which means major problme, likely cracked pistons