evildky

you make me sick, one of these days I'm gonna have to do that

do you have power at the coil? is there power at the coil during cranking? do you have a smart probe? or some other way of detecting a ground disconnect signal?

keep in mind when reading that your 81 turbo donor is a bit different from the more common 82-83 setup which is what mine was before megasquirt, one of those wires is the disconnect ground trigger wire coming from the ecu, the other I believe is the swictched/cranking hot and there should be no wires going to the coil other than the ones from the ingitor, I won't swear to thsi as it's been and while and your setup is a bit different

that thing sure does look awesome and seems to be the best solution to the finned diff as well as a nice rear mounted bar, It liiks like it would work with a stock mustache bar as well but if the 2 pieces could be made as one it would be really nice

datsun didn't use AN's, as far as I know no manufacturere does and I don't even think they were available back then, you can use AN fittings if you have the propper adapter fitting, I believe it's a brittish pipe thread but a metric was close enough to work, just find a local speed shop with metric-AN adapters in stock and match it up

um, look around, there is a seperate section devoted to Megasquirt and I kow a lot of people here are running SDS and quite a few haltec's and others as well

I have the msa clutch line and it went right in no problem, I'm using a regular 280Z slave cylinder

all the glass on 70-78 is interchangable, the lines for the defog are vertical in the first series, and supposedly the first few hundred had no defog at all?

lots of stuff makes the 280 heavier, the bare chassis is heavier, the unibody is better designed and has additional metal making the 280 stiffer and heavier, the injection system and wire harness weigh more, there is more sound deadening, safty bars int he doors, the seatbelts and bumpers all weigh more, the later cars were available with factory air which added weight bottom line if you want to make your 280 look like a 240 you can but why? I understand using the skinny bumopers which save weight and are not so unsightly but to bother with things like the tail lights and dash just seems like a lot of work for no real reason

someone used to have a sig that said something to the effect, power doesn't break parts, traction breaks parts

core support hangs lower in the 280, and the 280 also has an extra plate just above the frame rails near the core support, you can make it fit with a little more work than doing 240 parts

Shelby Series 1 I think I'd trade the datsun for one even if it is slower

I was putting 230 to the wheels with my 4 speed but I only drag raced it a handfull of times, mostly autocross and second gear syncro was bas to begin with, I upped to the KA 5 speed just to get rid of the sloppy shifter in the early cars along with the 5th gear

my 240 is one of the first series, the control arms are identical to the ones I removed form a 78, I campared these thngs side to side and found no difference at all, and they are interchangable side to side as well I just cant call it a "series 1" as that is the name of the shelby "series 1" he built with oldsmobile

the standard rear sick conversion places the rotor on top of the stub axle where the drum currently is, if the rotor is any thicker than the drum it wouldn't be more than 1/8" tops, I have seen extreme wilwood kits taht had thick hats to purposely add offset to the wheel but they have to use longet wheel studs as well

spec miata for the ease of maintenence, if you've ever worked on the Mr2 midengine or the sentra's amazingly cramped SR20DE and then worked on the miata's spacious engine bay you'll understand

I think the object of that kits isn't really to improve braking (but it seems logical that the larger rotor would give graater leverage and could also spread the heat across a larger surface area), rather that kit is to allow people with big blinging wheels to fill some of the gap with some big blingin caliper and rotor

I have both 280 and 240 hubs and I even have 280zx hubs should I want a touch more offset I just figured the extra wheel clearance would be handy when swapping between V700's and street tires and drag slicks all on different wheels

I was just a bit concerned that by spacing the caliper from the mounting ears I'd be weakening it, I wonder why he didn't just make a caliper spacer for use with the 280 hub instead of a different hub adapter? seems like such a simple solution rather than machine 2 different adapters I kinda wondered if there wern't a good rason for not doing it that way

I just picked up a set of used Outlaw brakes, Looks like the typical set sold by a member here, anyhow the setup is for use on a 240Z hub but I wanted to put it on my 280 hubs as this allows the caliper to mount further away from the wheel, the rotor clears the mounting ears just fine but the calliper will need a small spacer to center it on the rotor, just wondering if a small aluminum spacer would be safe, just enough to make up the difference in hubs, looks like the spacer would need to be 3/8"-1/2" and I kinda figure washers wouldn't be precise enough

maybe you should leave your roof on and find a starman (I believe thats what they are called) conversion, they seem to be popping up lately

3" silicone hose isn't very flexible, I suggest you buy some mandrel bends and some couplers and start fitting

I found that last week, looks like the best solution for the finned diff and swapbar, I just can't figure out how the risers are bolted in?

you don't need dust shields, my fathers DTS didn't come with any from the factory