evildky

I got the weld in sump as well

soulds like I decent deal, but if you want megasquirt I suggest you handle that yourself! megasquirt could be a curse for you trying to pick up where someone else left off! if you build it install it and learn it it coud be the best thing ever! aside from that bit of opinion everyting you want to know is here, just look to the top of your screen and select "search"

yeah I was looking there as well, that guy has them for a bit less than treadstone, I was wondering if the 12x6 core would be big enough or if I should go for the 18" unit, it's abig price jump! and I keep throwing money at this thing

under the hood of running 81-83 280zx turbo cars?

the early tank is shaped much different due to the different spare tire well, also i seem to recall that the late model went in through the tiop of the tank and I thinking the early one comes in from the front

I know I've seen a few verticle intercoolers around here, and am pretty well comvinced that I need to get one, my questin is how big and where did you get yours? I've found 12 x 6 x 3.5 cores taht supposedly can handle over 600 hp, (well beyond my goal) that just seems small to me considering the air only gets cooled for the 6" vertical travel? anyone have reasone to use larger? or is this truely enough?

Moby, it was rich before the I/C install I am running the dsm's wth your maps and it was rich but ran good and without the I/C, rough idle but power from top to bottom, and I did have it running like 28 psi base fuel pressure with my aeromotove rrfpr and msd pump, after adding the I/C I upped the fuel pressure to the 40 psi it should be at, and leaned out the bottom (idle range) and cold start maps, it's got the best idle and cold start it's ever had including the stock system! and of course triple check all the couplers and no problems there although I did blow one off when racing on sunday, I am strongly considering a vertical flow intercooler to shorten the piping and I really need to tune the maps better, we're about 600 ft above sea level here an I suspect my feul system flows a bit better than your did so i need to thin the maps to compensate for my extra fuel flow, and btw I really appreciate your sharing of info and maps without it I'd have been screwed

I ran a 13.010 with no intercooler! and now a 13.4 with, but its backfiring through first and second gear, gotta retune the maps

once the leak starts people start pouring power steering fluid in which makes the eaks worse, they use ATF ONLY! i put a rebuilt in my old Z31 I got it from strano's in PA

I havn't dyno'd it yet but I bent the wastegate actuator and turned the boost down till I got around 15 psi, after adding the I/C I upped the base fuel pressure to the afformentioned 40 psi, the log shows like 9:1 but thts just the stock O2 sensor and I just don't trust it, with the boost limited it seems to be backfiring and less and running stronger but still not where it should be, as for the cold pipe being larger I figured it was one step closer to the TB which is 2.75" and I'd think that 2.75" all the way wouldn't do much good and would be harder to aquire and route really considering the larger turbo, perhaps I will try more tuning for now but I need to get the big power numbers next spring

check the ground wire coming from the head unit, you need to grond that wire to the chassis, a lot of people mistakingly hook that wire up to the illumination wire and when you turn on the lights you burn something out

the megamanual recomends against installing directly in the intake due to excessive vibration shortening the life of the sensor, I put mine in the pipe about 3 inched before the tb, as far as I know everyone else mounted theirs outside the intake and have not had any issues

I was getting full boost by 3300-3400 rpm, now it's 4000rpm

ok so I went to the stip today with the intercooler for the first time since I added the I/C just a few days ago, here is the set up: 183k junkyard L28ET MSD fuel pump and aeromotove rrfpr running 40 psi base pressure palnet o-ring fuel rail with blue dsm 450 cc injectors 240 sx TB (this is a new addition as well) megasquirt'n'spark running moby's maps 12x18x3 I/C 2.25 hot pipe 2.5 cold pipe tail bov on the cold pipe between the I/C and the TB I now have no bottom end! best I can figure the piping is too large and the turbo is taking longer to spool I chose this pipe as my end goal is 400 whp, should I go ahead with the upsized t3/to4e or should I reduse my piping or both? on the upside with the new slicks I was able to get a 1.81 sec 60' (a personal best and the VLSD hates it) I was running 13.010 while overheating with the stock managment and no I/C @ about 9 psi, I had it running great with no I/C on megasquirt @ 13psi and it sure felt a LOT faster, then I added the I/C and it all went to hell which only got me a 13.4, a full 3 tenths slower than the old stock setup

hey I didn't notice you location there was another guy from lex working on the L28ET swap but I havn't seen him post up in a while maybe he changed his mind? I'm headed for bowlingreen tomorrow to get a new timeslip with the I/C and a couple more psi of boost if I can get the MS maps worked out, if I can get it turned right should be able to get sub 12.5's on the 183k L28ET with Stock turbo, that or I'll blow it up

I ran mine just testing and tuning around the block for a week or so without the resistors before making an resistor pack, your just overpowering them and will shorten their lives, they could fail tomorrow or 10 years from now

a local guy got a car taht came with a full cap already inplace and cracked, and I don't mean like a hairline, I mean full on busting out like when the factory dash goes, seems nothing lasts if it's neglected

the L28ET is cheaper power for most of us, I got a complete donor for $350, I didn't need to fabricate any engine or trans mounts, and then sold enough parts off the donor car to pay for it! and with potential of over 400 whp from the L6 the v8 swap just seems rather pointless, if your looking for an 11 second or faster car then the v8 might be cheaper but most of us are happy with low 12's, or we build to 11's over time

I've seen a fiorst gen MR2 1ith a Taurus SHO motor mounted in place of the factory motor, was pretty interesting but I'm sure there are easier ways to get 250 hp in am MR2

the stock tps is only a switch and will nto work with the MS, I added a tab to a 240sx so I coulsd use it with my stock tb till I upgraded my tb

keep in mind that there are 2 versions of the R200, the early long snout versiona nd the newer short snout version, so the ring and pinion gears can only be used with their correct housing but the center carriers can be used in either housing with the housings proper gearset, aside from that the VLSD just used different output shfts but this is due the the carriers specific setup you can use the output shafts with the correct carrier in ewither housing but you then need to adapt to the halfshafts or adapt the cv's on the outboard side

the S130 has no upper window frame because it woudn't allow for the factory T-Tops

the standard shaft does reach and engage the center portion it's just not as far into it as the correct shaft woulld be, that center portion is quite wide and is splined all the way through, my biggest concern was a shaft coming out as the circlips do not engage, but in all this time it hasn't been an issue

clearance on the sront of both models is a bit tight with 7's ? larger diameter wil get you a bit more but without flairs I think 8 or 9 will be the max on both up front at least, they both have a good bit of room out back, another advantage to the Z31 is if you get a turbo or an 86-89 model you get 5x4.5 wheels which are a LOT more common

on second thought that port on the intake side of your turbo is likely where the stock recirculation type bov re-entered the system, this is quieter than the bov's that vent to atmosphere and found on lots of stock applications, and if running a stock ecu not recirculation causes a momentary rich condition due to the wasted air leaving the system