80LS1T

Well I don't wander into these parts much but I'm glad I did.....beautiful work Yasin! Your engine sounds even better than it looks, which is pretty hard to believe! NICE WORK! Guy

I had a louver on my car way back when I first got it 8+ years ago. I was doing a "high speed" run aka 100mph+ down a nice open country road when all of a sudden I hear this horrible racket coming from the back....by the time I turned around to see what it was my louver was gone! I looked in the side view mirror only to see my louver going end over end about 30 feet into the air! LOL It was the funniest thing I've ever seen! I have to assume just from that experience that they create lift. I'm just glad there weren't any other cars around! Guy

Yeah but its better than someone else starting a thread "how do I clean my R200":grin: Guy

What are the two posts above all about? The engine bay looks all cobbled up! You probably need to bleed the cooling system. Jack up the front end and take the radiator cap off and then let it run and top it off. Did you get a good deal on the whole truck? Also what tranny is mated up to it? Guy

How much did you get it for? Did you get an alluminum head one? Guy

Whoops, I've been away all weekend hunting so I didn't see it! Admins, feel free to delete this thread! Guy

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816065 Guy

Tonight I was cleaning the car up at work and I notice that my rear lug nuts looked cock-eyed. I think I may have bent/twisted my rear studs. These are not stock studs but came with my ICHIBA 20mm spacers that I am using for the rear, so I have no idea how strong they are supposed to be? Anyway I found this post but the only thing I'm not 100% sure of is the knurle size of the studs. I am going to use some ARP studs for the rear. I see that they make 12mmx1.25 but I don't know if the knurle size is correct, if it's not I will just use 12mmx1.5(lots of sizes avaliable). Any way this is what I found on Summit's site for the 12mmx1.25... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D7716&N=700+400295+300117+4294900374+115&autoview=sku Any help wold be great! Guy

Mmmmmmmmm yummy! I can't wait to hear those ITB! Guy

That's what it looks like when I try to do brake stands! Front tires lock up and I just push the car! LOL Sucks cause last time I did it I put a big ol' flat spot on my left front tire. I am going to have to replace that tire before spring now cause the thump, thump, thump while driving is annoying the hell out of me! LOL Guy

Anybody else notice this thread is 2 years old? Let's face it people, all of them are Z cars and the only one who can say different is NISSAN! LOL When they change the name to 350Y you can stop calling it a Z car! Guy

Do you have a PCV system hooked up? Sounds like your crankcase is building up pressure and blowing the seal out. That would be my guess. The easy thing to do would be to put a breather in one of the valve covers and see if the seal stays in. Guy

The rears should be no probelem but the front is going to be close. I have seen 235/45/17's run on the front. The tire was about 1/2" from the strut tube with MMS spacers(38mm).

It's glass if your talking about the MSA kit 2. There are urethane kits(atleast there was). www.victoriabritish.com sold them. Guy

I have a buddy who does tractor pulls, I can't wait to show him these pics! I can't imagine what the driver was thinking when that thing went! LOL Guy

SportMax 962's with +35mm offset Front....18x7.5" 38mm spacer(MMS spacers) 225/40/18 tires Rear.....18x9.5" 20mm spacer(forgot who I got them from?) 265/35/18(might go with 275's next time) Guy

Now I'm no engine guru but isn't it better to get a 2 bolt main and have splayed 4 bolt mains machined into the block? I thought I read that was better than factory 4 bolt mains? Guy

Do you mean these?....http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA1/50-1610 I have them on my car, I like them better than the stock ones. Guy

Speed costs...how fast do you want to go! LOL That does sound about right after you buy the engine/tranny, buy all the upgraded internals, new fuel system, and have a turbo kit fabricated. Guy

Well a stock camaro LT1 is running 10.5:1 compression, that's why you can't run more than 6-7PSI safely. Even then your using an engine with a cast crank, cast pistons, and cast rods- if you start to detonate at all you will most likely break a piston. It's not that LT1's don't like boost, just that it wasn't set up for it from the factory. Most car's aren't that are NA to begin with. Buy an "Eagle" forged rotating assembley off ebay, I think they are right around $1400(I've been looking at them too). If you want 700HP your going to have to go with boost though or a lot of nitrous. The LT1 with the same boost will make more HP/TQ across the board, its nearly twice the size in cubic inches as the original engine that came in your car! Not to mention parts and maintance on your original engine are WAYYYY more expensive than the LT1! Guy (thanks for the complements guys!)

I wouldn't put the LT4 hotcam in a motor like your building, you wont get the full power out of your 383. Not only that but you will not see 500rwhp from that cam on motor alone. The cam has pretty good lift but low duration. I run it in my 355 LT1 and its ok but I will be switching it out sooner than later. My engine probably puts down 330-340rwhp, if I had to guess. You would probably see low 400's with a 383 with that cam. You should decided now if you want forced induction or not. You can either build a high compression engine for NA or a low compression egine for boost. You can boost an LT1 in stock form but why bother with it when you can only run 6psi? That's the way I look at anyways. If you want boost build a 383 with something in the neighborhood of 8.5:1 compression. Put forged pistons, rods, and crank in it and boost away! You wont be able to boost enough on a high compression LT1 to see 700RWHP with out running into detonation issues or having to run race gas.

My fuel rail/intake is from a 1993 engine(whole engine is minus the wiring/opti, which is 1995). Thats just the way my fuel rail came. Bart, I just figured Harbor freight would have something cheap that you could get for testing. I don't know for sure if they actually have somthing. I think the regulator is a nice piece. Quality seems very good. You can get them for the LT1 fuel rail inplace of the stock one that are adjustable too. I used that one because I had no good way of connecting my fuel system to the fuel rail. So when I put the fittings in the back of the rail I had the fuel pressure regulator ports welded shut. This just made it easy to connect everything. Guy

Here's my fuel system... Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator with fuel pressure gauge attached to the front of it. You could put a sending unit where the gauge is and use a electic gauge inside your car if you want to. The back of the fuel rails have -6AN fittings welded in. The passenger rail is the feed line and the drivers is the return. The fuel rails also had some kind of tube running through the middle of them, those are now gone so the rail actually holds more fuel now. I have seen no problems at all since removing them. I am also running a Mallory cartrige style fuel filter. The whole system to and from the tank is -6AN. The hard lines are alluminum, which I ran in the stock location. No extra heatshields either. Guy