80LS1T

I dont think it will be that hard if you already have the pedal and hydraulics in the car. Im not sure what size of a master cylinder you have in there right now but I think most guys go with a 7/8" or 15/16". I put a T56 in my 80' ZX that originally had a 3 speed auto. I had to put a pedal in and the hydraulics. The pedal was the hard part. You might have to make a new tranny mount if they dont line up or modify the one you have. Also you might need to get a different driveshaft. The tailshafts might not be the same and the trannys might not be the same length. Im not sure on all of that though, but you will find out once its in there! Guy

Yeah it kinda sounds easy but those sleeves are a BIT*H to get out of there! I did all my bushings on my 80 ZX this summer and that was the most difficult thing about doing my suspension upgrades. It took for ever to get those out of my lower control arms! Glad its over though. I used heat, hacksaw(same method as above), punches, hammers, and a press. The best thing to do is to cut through with the hacksaw and then us a punch or a hydraulic press if you have one avaliable and punch or press them out. Guy

Does it have the 130MPH gauge? If it does, those go for like $50 on ebay. If the interior is in good shape(doubt it), that stuff is like gold! Thats about it though. Guy

I know after reading some posts from Grumpy, that he recommends using a mineral based oil for the first 2 oil changes(inital break-in, and 100 miles) then change over to the "good stuff." Thats what I'm going to do for my fresh LT1. I'll have to let you guys know how things go. I'm just waiting on my driveshaft so that I can go get the exhaust done! Then its break-in time!!!!! Guy

So when are you going to make adapters for the 280ZX? Hmmm?? Guy

Yeah I am one of those people who paid TOO much! If you ask me that kit should cost about $125. They only have about $40 worth of metal there and that rubber tranny mount. I have some pics on my site of the mounts. All those mount do is convert the Datsun 2 bolt to the Chevy 3 bolt pattern and put the correct amount of space between the crossmember and the engine! If you made these you could set the engine a bit lower(1.5") too! That wouldnt hurt the center of gravity of the car! Guy

If I remember correctly, this is only for the adapters. It is up to you guys to get your own calipers and rotors. Guy

Ok I am done with my "homemade" strut bars. I am not sure how great they are going to work but I would rather have these than nothing at all. I really should have done this when the engine bay was not painted. That way I could have done it like JohnC did. Those look AWESOME!! And they probably prevent 99% of the flex up front that is not desired! Mine are very rigid but they aren't as nice as those. If mine prevent 85% of the unwanted flex then that will have to do for now. Here's an updated pic... Guy P.S. By the way I should be getting my driveshaft back any day now! So that means I can get my exhaust done and finally get to drive it! OH BABY!

LMAO!!!! Guy

To bore and hone my 350 .030 over, it costed me $144 and all of my holes were within in .001 of each other! Guy

Well if it was installed right, it should have Permatex on it to help it seal. Also when installing freeze plugs you should use a specail freeze plug installer so that the depth is right. The edge of the freeze plug should be flush with the block/lip of the hole or close too it. So tapping it farther in wont really help most likely. I would just take that one out and put a new one in. Guy

Yeah I have a little bit concern about the ends too. I know from reading a lot of posts that they should really be straigh, like the ones in your pic Greimann. But like you said anything is better than nothing! I will most likely build new ones next year if I swap in a bigger cam. That way it will be easier to do when the engine is out. I am just looking for something to get by right now. I think these will do the job in that respect! Guy

Awww man! I thought I had a money maker here! LOL That's ok. I would have don it though! Guy

I might be able to do that for ya? How much you willing to pay? The metal costed me $30. It will take me about 3.5-4 hours to make them. So I might do it for about $80+ shipping? Guy

Well I got 2/3 of them done. I have the strut to strut one done and the drives side strut to fire wall done. I just got too tired to do the passenger side one tonight. I figure quit while I'm ahead before I screw something up! I am using 1" square tubing for all my braces. This should be enough right? They are then bolted to the struts and too the firewall. I bolted mine to where the hood latch bolts go into the firewall. It seems to work for me? What do you guys think? http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/strut-bars.jpg I didnt post the picture because its a big picture! Guy

Ok there is a guy in my class who owns a 1995 Mustang GT. I hate to say it but he's like every other Mustang owner, he thinks his Mustang is a Cobra! Yeah he even put the Cobra emblems on the side of his car. I really hate that! Anyways so he comes to our "beat the heat" meeting and wants to time his car because he just put a bigger cam in and its running rough now. My first though was "well ya your computer isn't tuned for that cam!" He then tells me that he got a new "chip" too. So I thought well maybe it's not the computer? So he comes back last week and tells us that he is in the process of swapping the old cam back in because he thinks he might have too big of a cam. Then at the friday night drags he tells me that it wasn't the cam..........guess what it was? HE HAD 2 WIRES CROSSED!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHA LOL LMAO!!! Yah so he swapped the old cam back in because he didn't check his firing order! I mean come on. How funny is that? So now this week he is going to swap the bigger cam back in. I tell ya, it's always the little things that get ya in the end. Guy

Yeah it will work. Since the heater core doesnt have fresh air moving over it, it doesnt really do too much cooling. It's not like the radiator if thats what you were thinking Do the bypass but get it fixed eventually! Guy

Well actually I do but the chip is set up for a Supercharger. I am going to keep this computer and chip till I get a 94/95 computer to replace it. Then I am going to selll the computer. Guy

Ok well how do you make an exhaust system? Are you just welding the pieces together or are you using couplings and then welding them together? Also how much $$$ is this going to run you? Guy

You know what they say..."theres a sucker born every minute!" and this proves it! Oh yeah and I just sold one of my 93' LT1 computers on Ebay for $102.51! I thought maybe I would get like $60 for it but over $100! Score one up for me! Guy

What do you mean you bought the mandrel bent pieces from summit? I thought most guys liked the bend tubes? So are you just like cut and pasting pieces together? That seems like a lot of work! Guy

Ok if you ask me these heads are way over priced! $700 and they only flow 240/167@.500. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2415094322&category=33617

From what I understand TunerCat is better anyways! That's what I am going to use. How did you build your exhaust? Do you have access to an exhaust bender? Guy

How much did it actually cost to make? Very nice by the way!!!! Guy

It almost looks too good to be real! Is it possible to do something like that in a photo editing program? Guy