80LS1T

Looks great Bart! Glad you finally got it all figured out! Guy

I originally used the gasket when I swapped the R180 for the R200 but it leaked almost instantly. Now I am just using RTV with no leaks. I would just use RTV if I was you. Guy

Its a reverse torx but if you dont buy a shallow reverse torx it will slip very easy. If you shave off the end of the socket so that it is flush with where the torx part begins in the socket it will fit a lot better. I had that same problem with the altima's at work, they use those for the flexplate to crankshaft bolts! I cut my $20 snap on socket down flush and it works 100% better now. Guy

Well I am running 265/35/18's on my car that are +35 offset with 20mm spacers in the rear. So they are basically a +15mm rim with the spacers on. I used to have 17x7's with a +42mm offset and a 38mm spacer. Those rims had 222/45/17's on them and in back I had tons of room in both directions, no strut clearance issues and it wasn't close to rubbing on the fender either. I don't know for sure 100% but I wouldn't think that those would be a problem. They will be close in front though if you plan to run the 245's all the way around. I have 18x7.5" rims in front running a 225/40 tire and there isn't much clearance between the tire and the strut tube. You may also rub on the fender when turning.(mine is pretty close there too). Guy

Oh good god that thing is beautiful!!! NICE JOB! Can't wait to see more pics! Guy

If you have a stock engine and tranny I would just buy the cable and use tuner cat to turn off all the stuff your not going to use. I am also using the AKM cable. I sent out for a tune for my car from pcmforless.com for $75.00 which they just email you and you load up yourself. I don't know how much they changed as far as timing or fuel but I will find out soon when I start fine tuning it myself. I don't think they changed that much and I probably would never send out for a tune again, I just wanted my car on the road with a base tune so that I could atleast drive it. If your not sure how to edit your PCM for deleting stuff you could always have one of us do if for you and you could just load it up with tuner cat. Turning stuff on and off is very easy though so I'm sure you could figure it out. Don't be affraid to ask questions about this stuff, I have been doing a lot of reading about editing the pcm for max power and as soon as I start tuning mine I will be sure to post the info on how I did. The info I have found is very basic and it seems like the guys who do know what they are doing don't know how to "dumb it down" for us newbies at tuning. I want to dumb it down as much as possible so that new tuners can understand it without having to ask too many questions. Guy

I always thought your Z was one of the cleanest swaps. I hate to see you go but I understand. I hope you get close to what you want for your Z, a lot of time and effort went into and is shows! Good luck with the Vette! Guy

You need three wires to the DLC: 1: D30 (serial data) goes to "M" on the DLC 2: D20 goes to "B" on the DLC 3: "A" on the DLC goes to chassis ground You should have the top connector. If you wired your DLC connector this way you should be able to connect with Tuner Cat. Also make sure your "comm setting" is correct in Tuner Cat. Your cable should be on comm 1, 2, 3, or 4. Did you get software with your cable? I did and it wouldn't work without the software loaded onto my computer(I bought my cable like 2 years ago though...). Guy

Yeah you could just throw a JY tranny in it for a couple hundred bucks and sell it. Your never going to get your money out of it if you sell it with a blown tranny. Or you go to a Mazda shop and talk to one of the guys that rebuilds the tranny's to see if he wants to earn some side money buy rebuilding it on the side. You could pull the tranny yourself and just drop it off for him to fix. Is the tranny an auto or manual? Guy

Yeah you should be able to download it from their site no problem? Go here and scroll to the bottom and right click and save as. You should have the program. You will still need the $EE deffinition file though to make it work for your PCM. Did you download that yet? Guy

Well I had the dent-less repair guy fix my screw up today. He did a fantastic job too! The 2 spots are completely gone! The only way you would know they were there is if I told you and you still probably wouldn't believe me! LOL It only cost me $30 too! Money well spent! I'm kind of friends with the guy that fixed my car so he gave me a deal. He was telling me about some of the cars he's fixed, like a 1956(I think that's what he said) Ferrari Testarossa(sp?) that he fixed for a local resto shop. The car was worth something like $3 million! He fixed it all up with those little sticks and 3 hours of labor! The shop said that if he couldn't fix it that the car was going to have to be repainted! The shop didn't really want to do that because it would have hurt the value of the car substantially. This guy obviously knows what he's doing! Guy

I don't know if it would look "retarded" or not? I think it looks better with the same size rims front and rear but that's my tastes... Guy

Thanks Aux, I just lost some brain cells reading that thread! "yeah who wants TQ when you can rev to 8K?" Um me me me! I'll take a huge flat TQ curve over your crappy 8K redline anyday! Guy

Not a problem but you know using a tune from another car is not always safe. I have a base tune from PCMforless.com just to get me close and now I will be doing the fine tuning. I don't think TunerCat sends you a program, you should just download it and then they will send you a registration number to put into the program. You can download the program right from their site fto use for 30 days for free you know? Guy

9" in front will require some really thick spacers to clear the strut tube. With the MMS 1.5" spacer in front with the 18x7.5" rims the tire clears the strut tube by like 1/2". You could go out maybe 1/2" but I think anything wider than that and it would rub on the fender when going over bumps. I really like the 18's all the way around and so does everyone that has seen my car. They just love the dish in back! Guy

Guys I could careless if your thread jacking my thread! I went cruising again tonight for a while. I got quite a few double takes! LOL I also saw a stock 280ZX on Monday at lunch. He just looked at my car with a blank stare:icon52:<---kind of like that, lol! It was priceless I tell ya! I just like the fact that not everyone and there brother drives a 280ZX much less one powered by a SBC. Not like all the honda's, mustangs, and camaro's running around! Everything is still running great and I plan on starting to fine tune it late this week and maybe a little this weekend. Less fuel + more timing= more power! Guy

Oh don't get me wrong his car is very fast. I just want the race to be even or in my favor most of the time. I know in the 1/4 mile he would be playing catch up from the word go and so does he. I think I have some power still to be made from what I have now and then we'll see. My car has great low end power but top end deffinently needs some work! I took a couple people for a ride today at work, they all loved it! My used car manager didn't believe me when I said there was a SBC under the hood, LOL! So of course I poped the hood and he was just baffled! LOL Nobody can believe that my car is a 1980 either because it looks so much more modern with the new wheels, paint, body kit, and bi-xenon headlights. Made me feel pretty good! Guy

Mike it's not that if you own a Ferrari you can't have a pick up, its that if you own a Ferrari you probably aren't hurting for money and would probably have something more like a quadcab power stroke F350 and not a regular cab side step F150. That's all I ment by it! Atleast if I owned a Ferrari like that I sure as hell wouldn't be rolling around in a sidestep regular cab F150! I'd have a quadcab or megacab / Dodge 3500 Turbo Dieseled powered / rolling on some bling bling rims and tires kind of truck! LOL That's just how I would "roll" LOL! Guy

As far as factory set ups for the LT1 I think that is your only option. You could alway buy a relocating kit but that's not cheap either. What accessories are you going to use for this engine? Guy

I am running those wheels on my 280ZX in 18x7.5" in front and 18x9.5" in the rear. I'm not an autocrosser so I don't worry a lot about extreme perfromance when it comes to steering. I just really like how it looks with the 265's in back and the nice lip on the rim! To get them to fit on my car I have the MMS spacers in front which are 38mm I believe and then I have longer studs in the rear with a 20mm spacer. The fronts clear everything and the rears clear everything but it was really close with the rears and the fender. I had the 38mm in the rear at first but it was rubbing on the fender under hard acceleration, now its just fine. I think the 9.5" is as big as you can go in the rear with a stock suspenion on these cars. Guy

I'm pretty sure the Vette's had all or most of the accesories on the drivers side. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-96-LT1-C4-Corvette-Main-Accessory-Mount-Bracket_W0QQitemZ170135896339QQihZ007QQcategoryZ38656QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Is that what you want? Guy

Assuming you drop your 60' down to say a 1.7 from a 2.2 with slicks your only going to shave off about .8 seconds of your ET. The general rule for 60' times is for every .1 you loose there you loose .15 seconds on your ET. Your MPH is really not high enough to run 12's if you ask me. Your probably going to have to be closer to 110mph to see 12's. I know "Cody 82 ZXT" was running a 12.9 @107.7mph. He is also running an L28ET. Good launches takes lots and lots of practice. I know in my 280ZX I have to slip the cluch to get it too hook decent. Guy

Yeah but I still don't like getting beat by a Neon even if it is a highly modified turbo Neon. I'm going to fine tune the car and then run him again, if I still get beat even on the top end I'm going be looking at a decent cam and springs to match. Don't get me wrong my car is quick but I want it to be feared! LOL This Neon and my service writers old 350ZT(sold it) are probably the fastest street driven cars in the area(there are a few other cars that are way faster but they aren't what I would consider a street car...one of these cars runs on turbo blue only-not a street car if you ask me. Plus they Neon owner is kind of full of himself when it comes to this car and I don't want to hear about how his car is faster! This guy is a buddy of mine but he still can be full of it sometimes.(Yes I know there s always going to be someone faster! LOL) Guy

Well I finaly got to drive my car around. I polished it all up and took it from my parents house and made my way back to my house 30 miles away without any issues. Runs good but still needs fine tuning of the the WOT A/F and more than likely needs more timing(I got a tune from PCMforless just to get me on the road for now but I will be tuning it now). I drove around town for a while and then met up with my buddy who has a 370FWHP SRT-4 Neon. Now of coarse we had to race...but it of course had to be on the highway from a roll...so we did a 3rd gear pull a couple of times. First I pull a car on him and then he slowly pulls back even with me and pulls past me. It's really pretty close but I think he's got just a little more power than me(which I kind of expected). Then we did a 2nd gear roll(not on the highway) and I pulled on him hard and he gave up. I told him lets go from a stop but he didn't want to because he knows I have a huge advantage with the RWD. It was all good though for a first beat down run. I think once it's tuned it will be really close between us. If not I know I can atleast get a bigger cam! I'm not getting owned by a Neon! LOL:mrgreen: Other than the races I just cruised around and made sure everything was working properly. Temp was steady at 200-210*, volts was steady at 13ish, and oil pressure was steady at 30psi most of the time. The Bi-xenon's worked great tonight too but I have to aim the drivers side up a little. All and all a great afternoon/night! I think its going to rain tommorow so I wont be able to drive it then(still don't have my t-tops back from the painters but he said he should have them done this weekend(painting the black part on them)). Guy:mrgreen:

Well the T56 in my car is from a 1993 so the 6th gear is .62:1. I have 25.3" tires and a 3.54 rear end. I am also runnin the LT4 hotcam kit and running it out to 6500 rpms is just asking for floating a valve. I dont rev mine past 6200 at most but usually shift at 6000 when really on it. You aren't making any more power up there anyways. At 75ish I'm in the 2200rpm range. 1500 RPM's at idle is possible, no vacuum leaks on the intake ports right? Back down your throttle body adjuster screw if its cranked all the way in that should help your idle. My car idles at about 900rpms and if I hold it at 1500 rpms its pretty loud and sounds like its really turning some rpms just for an idle speed. I would think you would notice a 1500 rpm idle. I also have the 5" tach from autometer(phantom series) and I could see that little switch on the back being set wrong pretty easy. That's what I would check first. Guy