80LS1T

The kit your are referring too is pointless unless you have proper lenses for the HID system. If you install those in standard headlight housings it will reflect light all over the place and are actually illegal on the street. If you installed OEM projectors or buy a projector set up then you are ok. Go to www.hidplanet.com for all your HID questions, the guys over there know waaaaaaaaaay to much about these headlights and the site is run just like ours so search first and then ask questins! I hate to add more useless info to this thread but what is "FTW"? Guy

Good write up. I'm glad I figured out that I had to flip that stud coming through the hatch area before I started to modify things to make it work. I found the R180 to R200 swap very straight forward for my 280ZX. Guy

Look's good! I like the color/wheel combo! Guy

Who makes that cam? Is the idle pretty decent? I think I'm going to be pretty dissapointed when I finally take mine to the dyno and a cam swap is what I will be looking at. You're seems to be a pretty decent sized cam and I would think there's some more power to be had with more tuning. Guy

Is the fan wired correctly? Your not spinning it backwards are you? That would cause an overheating concernt at highway speeds because its trying to fight 60mph wind... Guy

Nope I can't see 700HP on stock internals, atleast not for more than one pull on a dyno LOL. Austin hit the nail on the head, the rods are the weak link and start to fail at around 400WHP. My buddies old 350Z turbo blew its first engine at 400WHP. #2 rod failed and started knocking BAD! Austin are you going to build it up before installing the engine in the car or are you going to install it stock and then pull it out later to build it up? Nice choice of engine, I love the way they pull with boost! Guy

I got them off of ebay from this store. The seller is a great business person. When I got my order I was missing one center cap. So I emailed him and told him, 2 days later I had a new center cap at my door! Great customer service! Guy

They were $560 shipped to my door. Thanks for all the nice complements guys! Guy

Upload the new file tonight if you can. I'll take a look at it when I get home tonight. I would make sure you have all the emissions stuff off that your not using and then clear all the codes and unplug the battery to reset the PCM. Then take it for a ride and see if it still happens. If the PCM thinks it's purging the canister or EGR I could easily see it richening or leaning out the mixture to compensate for the extra air that it thinks its going to get. Neither of those things(EGR or canister) will purge unless the car is warmed up and under a light load. Guy

My strut towers and covers are plastic. I didn't do anything to them other than spray them with Armorall? Guy

Bart, remember I'm running a 280ZX not an S30. I am just running a set of Tokico struts with lowering springs(I think its a 1"-1.5" drop). My spacers are the standard MMS spacers for a 280ZX. I might be able to run an 8" wheel in front but it would get pretty close to the strut housing. The wheel size didn't seem to play a huge part in fitting these in back, the 280ZX has a lot more room back there than people think. I'm not sure if I'm going to run thinner spacers out back yet or not. I think I'm going to drive it and see if I like the look or not. They really don't stick out that much. Atleast I know if they are sticking out too much I can go with with them yet about 3/4" till they would hit the lower control arm. Man either my old wheels sucked ass or these new ones are just that great! LOL Everyone loves these wheels on my car(eveyone I work with and all my friends are saying how much better these are too! LOL). Guy

KTM I have the same suspension set up as you but your car really does look a lot lower? It really looks slick riding low like that! I really like the look of the front spoiler too! Guy

Did you ever figure out if you actually have the EGR and canister are turned off in you PCM? I just downloaed Datamaster and I was looking at your file, it seems to me that you PCM thinks the charcoal canister is purging but its really not and your short term fuel trim is going rich causing it to stumble? It's been quite a while since I used Tunercat so I don't remember how to turn that stuff off. I just remember how to turn off the codes, which I don't believe is the same as turning off the function of the EGR and CC. I think you have to make the parameters that it needs to turn on so far off the chart that it will never see them that it will never turn on. Is that what you did? Oh and how do you have your O2's mounted? They should not be mounted in anything lower than the "9 oclock to 3 o'clock range because water could rest on them and burn them out when they initially heat up when first started. Guy

Wow talk about bring a post back from the dead! LOL My problem was that only old 1993 harness that I bought from Darius the O2 sensors were wired wrong from the left to the right bank, so when the PCM saw a rich condition on the right back it would lean out the left bank. Once I had the wiring ok my problem was gone. Now I have the 1995 wiring and pcm in my car but haven't had it running yet so I don't know if everything is still good. I hope it is cause I really don't feel like tracking down new problems! Piston, the manifolds/headers should be close to the same in temp from side to side, if not then you have a problem. Guy

Ok here's some pics of the finished product... This is the housing I made out of a PCV endcap and made a fiberglass top to go on it and then siliconed it on. This holds the ballist and keeps it from getting wet. Its just bolted to the inner fender behind the headlights. Here's the cutoff of the passenger side(don't have the drivers side wired in yet) I forgot to take a pic of the back of the housing I made. Basically I took those cheap ass headlights you found on ebay and took(broke) the glass out of them, cut the backs off so the FX35 projector housing would fit in it, layed fiberglass on the top part of the ebay housing and then cut a hold through the middle of the fiberglass so that the projector lens would go through the back of it. Then I just fiberglassed the projector housing onto the ebay housing piece. To keep the water off the ignitior I covered it with some thin rubber and ziptied it to the projector housing. I don't think they are water proof but they are water resistant(I won't be driving in the rain if I can help it and I wash my car by hand so hopefully it wont be an issue). Hope that helps some... Guy

Well it's past the end of June and it's still not on the road! Tranny is being rebuilt this week and hopefully if all goes right it will be ready to install for this upcoming weekend! Cross your fingers! I also installed some Bi-Xenon FX35 projector headlights! The projector housing are custom built to hold the FX35 projectors out of fiberglass. There is more info in the Body/Paint forum. Here's the "box" I made to house the ballast so that it wont get wet. Its a PCV end cap with a fiberglass top siliconed on top of it... I also bought new wheels... They are Sport Max 962's 18x7.5" in front and 18x9.5" in the rear! Mmmmmmm dish! All I know is I can't wait to drive this thing and to have all my friends to quite asking me if it's done yet!

Hey mannyvig did a guy named Andy(don't know his last name) just leave your shop in AZ? We just got a tech from teh Phoenix area that was a tech for Nissan? Guy

I'm trying to update my website right now but I'm having some technical difficulties. I will post them as soon as I can. Guy

Here's a great tool that I used while trying to figure out what would fit on my 280ZX.... http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html Seems to be dead on too! Guy

The front wheels are +38mm and the rears are +35. I figure with a 20mm spacer I will still clear the rear lower control arm by about 1/4". Guy

Well I did buy them and I actually used the back of them to make my housings so I got my $25.00 out of them I guess! LOL. I have an extra set of FX35 Bi-Xenon projectors that I'll let got for what I paid for them($65.00 shipped). You would just need the bulb, ignitor, and ballist. Now I have about $125 in my set up because I am using the bulb, ignitor, and ballist out of a set of 350Z headlights because I got them free from work(warrenty return that didnt get called back to Nissan!). If you look on HIDPlanet.com you should be able to piece together a really nice set up for a decent price. I would think you could do the whole set up for $250 or less if you make the housings for the projectors like I did. You'll see what I mean when I post some pics later(you should be able to find some pics of how I started this project by searching the body forum). Guy