80LS1T

Damn that was funny! You just have to wonder what all those guys that he was passing were thinking... Guy

Sorry to hear the news, I dont pray normally but I'll send one out for you and your family. Guy

Yeah but after all the time and money that I have invested in this car it just wouldnt be right having a set of ugly manifolds in the engine bay! Guy

Well it would take me about 15-20 minutes to do my first 7 plugs then to get #7 plug out I have to loosen my drivers side header(custom header)(one of the draw backs of having headers on my car!) When I had a manifold (regular LT1 manifold) it wasnt an issue. So if I do all 8 it will probably take me about 2 hours with all the dinking around that I would have to do to get that 1 plug out! Guy

Well thanks for conferming my theory. I went ahead anyways today and wired up the relays that I needed to and didnt use the 87A for anything. I was pretty sure I was right and Im glad I was because I am getting a little burnt out on wiring. Although I should be about 95% finished by tomorrow afternoon with wiring up my new engine harness! Guy

Ok I think I may have answered my own question... After staring at some more diagrams, I think that the reason there are two 87 pins(87 & 87A) is because 87 is set up for a circuit that is normally open(the contact rest on 87A) and 87A is set up for a circuit that is normally closed and when the cicuit/relay is energized it opens the contact. That's my theory but is it right? Guy

I have been looking at wiring diagrams for the past few hour while doing some wiring in my car and I was having some trouble findin the pin outs for a relay that I am going to use. I am using a relay box/fuse box out of some kind of Dodge product(not sure on what kind of vehicle because I got it out of a pile of old wiring harnesses from work). Now it has 2 spots for your normal square relay and 2 spots for those smaller relays(I think they are called micro relays?). Well I think I found the info I need on the pin outs but I have one question that I just cant seem to answer by myself.... What is pin #87A for? It seems like it goes to nothing in all the wiring diagrams that I have but why put it there if it just goes to nothing? Do I need to hook it up to something? Thanks, Guy

I dont know where those would connect but I am just going to have some welded right into my rail. Guy

Well I would deffinetly start with that motor mount. You should replace it regardless if it will help or not. Guy

Dale, I wont be running an LT1 specific fuel pressure regulator. The ones you seem to have posted links for are for the LT1 only. I wont be able to run those because the port where that would noramally plug into will be gone. That Aeromotive one looks like a good possibility! Guy

I am finishing up my new fuel system and I am having -6AN fittings installed in the back of my LT1's fuel rail and I am having the old holes in the rail filled in. So since all the old lines will be gone, the old fuel pressure regulator will be gone. Here's what I need... It will need 1 inlet and one outlet in -6an and 1 port for a fuel pressure gauge. If I cant find one with a port for a guage I could put a guage off of my fuel filter because I have an extra port on that. So what brand/model should I go with? Thanks guys! Guy

Welcome aboard.....First things first, if you havent read the rules for this site then I suggest you do. One of the biggest rules is to do a search first. There is a pretty good amount of info for 280ZX V8 swaps. MSA(www.zcarparts.com) sells a mounting kit for 350/700R4 combos. JTR(www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html) is starting to sell a few parts for the 280ZX swap. Start reading all the old posts and you should get an idea of what is involved to perform teh swap. Guy

I dont know where you buying freon but at the dealership I work at its about $35/lbs for R134a and about $80/lbs for R12. If I was going to try to fix an old system I wouldnt want R12 leaking out at $80/lbs. I would suggest making the conversion. R12 is just getting to expensive to mess with. Atleast thats my opinion! Guy

Do a search for WC-T5 / world class t-5. Behind a 4.3 it will be more than enough tranny. Guy

Nice find! I say screw the 305 though, that motor is a pooch if you ask me. Not to mention a 350 will probably cost the same. Guy

Mike you will not be dissappointed with that truck. I work at a dodge dealershop and I really have to say that those new Cummins engines are proving to be extremly reliable. Your milage is above average though for only having 20K on the clock. Most guys are seeing 14-16mpg untill they get up higher in the milage. The trannys are also holding up just fine, which is a surprize to me since it has 600ft-lbs of TQ! Not to mention those diesels really haul azz for such a big truck! Guy

Its the resistor block for the blower motor. Just go buy a resistor block and put it in and I gaurantee it will fix it. On setting 4 the resistors in the block are bypass and that is how you get full power to the blower motor. Thats why in will only work on high. Guy

What did you use to replace the u-joints? Did you use a press or did you just hammer them out? Its possible that you actually bent the driveshaft where the caps go in. I have done this at work and it just makes the u-joints a little tight. I havent had one make any noise though. All you have to do is take a punch and hammer on the cap ends, they usually arent bent much so it doesnt take much to get them back to straight. Just a though.... Guy

Are you swapping from a manual to an auto or vise versa? There is no pressure in a manual tranny. It depends where that plug is in a auto tranny if it has pressure or not. If its just speedo sensor hole then it shouldnt have pressure on it. Now having said that, unless you have a plug that screws in and has a seal on it...its going to leak no matter what tranny you have. Automatic tranny fluid is more likely to leak that the gear oil in a manual tranny but both will leak unless that plug is a screw in type. Guy

You have to do it from a running start and then accelerate smoothly to get the HP functin to work......having said that........I tried it and came up with numbers from 230HP to 430HP. So yeah you would think it would be easy to figure out but apparenly its not. Guy

I have a "G-Tech Pro Competition" and I have found it to very consistent as far as ET and MPH but I never really bothered with the HP/TQ because I couldnt get a consistent #. So Im a a little skeptical of those numbers but for the ET/MPH they are pretty much where I should be with my engine's estimated power. So I am faily confident that I should run mid 12's on street tires. Guy

Hey Im just repeating what my instructor(from a Dodge training center) told me....(although it is possible that he misspoke the number he gave me, but I know for sure that what he said was 5240 lbs) Guy

I was just at some Chystler training 2 weeks ago and the instructor told me he had one weight in...........5240lbs! HOLY MOTHER OF GOD! Yeah so that 300+ HP has got some weight to pull around! Even when they start building the SRT-8 425HP versions its still going to be a pig! Yeah and every guy that is a true Mopar fan, that I have talked to hates the fact that its a a four door. I still say that Ford has got this market won with the new Mustang. And Im not even a Ford guy! I just love the retro look of the new stang! Guy

I cant see the pics unless I sign up for a membership to that site.... Guy