-
Posts
2545 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by 80LS1T
-
Now I dont know about the Sentras but on some newer vehicles your not actually advancing the timing by moving the distributor.....your actually adjusting the fuel injector timing. (Just mentioning it because this is the way it is on some Dodge/Chysler vehicles). Guy
-
Yeah unfortunatly I cant go either! I have a sporting clays tournment that weekend(actually its the Wisconsin State Shoot, so its kind of a big deal, otherwise I would come). I really wanted to go when you told me about it but its just not going to work out. Maybe next year. MY CAR WILL BE PAINTED BY THEN............I SWEAR IT WILL BE! Guy
-
What's the best way to find vacumm leaks?
80LS1T replied to a topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Doesnt WD40 kind of leave a mess though? Its more of a lubricate than a cleaner? Guy -
Crank case ventilation and pressurized engine ?
80LS1T replied to Nismo280zEd's topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Does pulling the dipstick tube or removing the oil cap on a non MAF system create a vacuum leak? I just have never heard of this and now Im curious! Guy -
What's the best way to find vacumm leaks?
80LS1T replied to a topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
It is perfectly safe to use carb clean to check for vacuum leaks. Just spray it anywhere that you might think there is a leak and listen for a change in the idle. I dont know if WD40 works the same but I have never heard of anyone using that to check for leaks? Guy -
WOW That really really sucks. Just glad your ok. That thing took quite a hit though. hehehe "frame" yeah right, what frame! guy
-
What is the voltage at the "S" terminal wire. This should be your igntion voltage. Make sure that you are getting a full 12V at that wire. You could also do a voltage drop test on that wire to see what kind of condition that wiring is in. To do this, 1. connect one lead of your voltmeter(on a low DCV setting) to the + lead on the battery. 2. attach the other lead to the "S" terminal on the starter(the "S" terminal wire should be connected to teh the starter. 3. now turn the key to start and read your voltage. This reading will show the amount of voltage dropped. It should be fairly low, the maximum is 1.2V(10% of supplied voltage). Obviously you do not want that much. You do not need to have the battery cable on the starter hookedup for this but the starter does need be grounded to the car. Lets see what kind of results you get with this. Guy
-
From what I understand..... The PCM will shut down a few cylinders at a time, say 1,4,7,3(example)(2-4cylinders depending on load) Then the next time around it will shut down say, 2,5,6,8. This is all happening in milliseconds. Multiple displacement has been around for a few years so I would think that if it was a problem they wouldnt use it? Today I got to drive a 300C(HEMI powered 300M). My service writers wife has one and he brought it in today for some warrenty work(shifter knob leather was defective from factory........aka his wife scratched the leather ) So he asked me if I wanted to take it for a spin......I was like "HELL YA I DO!" He knows how I like to "see what a vehicle has got" but he trusts me and just told me to be careful! So I took it down the road and at the first stop sign I started to do a burn out but the traction control was on! ..........once I found the ON/OFF button for that though, the fun really began! That thing will easily light those tires up and it doesnt do a one wheel peal either.......LSD rearend! Going from a dead stop and just mashing the gas is amazing for a big car like that. It really does throw you back in the seat. As for the multiple displacment(shutting down cylinders), I couldnt even tell if it was on or not? The throttle response from a cruising speed was very good and it really can get up and go. Not to mention it actually handled very good for a big car. Just turn on that traction control and just giver hell....the car will automatically slow down for you if your going to fast(shut down some cylinders to control the power). I personally like the MAGNUM better. The 300M just looks funny? Too boxy or something? Yeah I know the MAGNUM is pretty much the same car but instead of a trunk its just extended into a wagon but it just makes the car look better! Guy
-
Why bother with the HEMI when you can buy the SRT-6 Crossfire? I think they are going to put it into production anyways? I cant remeber if its a twin turbo or a single? My service writer was talking about it a few weeks back but I dont remember much of the details.... Guy
-
HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Guy
-
Lubricant and seal compatability... Interesting find...
80LS1T replied to Mikelly's topic in Miscellaneous Tech
When installed the LT1/T56 I put fully synthtic Valvolen Dextron III in my T56. Then I noticed that the tranny was leaking, not a lot but a little. So I put the car up and took a peek at it. After degreasing it and checking for leaks it seems to be just seeping "through" the case? I cant find the leak? Now Im thinking maybe its leaking were the middle of the case is bolted together? I dont know if the fluid did it or not? Now you got me thinking? Guy -
Crank case ventilation and pressurized engine ?
80LS1T replied to Nismo280zEd's topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Here my take on this..... The catch can idea is a good idea. Diesels often use them and they work great just as long as you empty the catch can once and a while. Otherwise it will just overflow and defeat the purpose all together. As for hooking up your exhaust to your valve cover breather ports? Um NO. The exhaust will not suck the fumes/blow-by into the exhaust. If you've ever had an exhaust leak you will know that there is a "positive" pressure in the exhaust. If you hooked it up to your valve cover breather port you would pressurise your engine and you would have a lot of oil leaks fast. Even if you did have a check valve in the tube, the pressure from the engine would not over come the pressure from the exhaust. Thats just IMOP! Since when does pulling your dipstick cause a vacuum leak? The air that is in the block doesnt not need to be metered since it does not enter the cylinders with the A/F ratio. Maybe I am just misunderstand what is being said here? Guy -
I'll have to let you guys know how responsive it is from a cruising speed when cylinders are shut down, to when you floor it. They say its only milliseconds but what does the "butt-o-meter" say? Guy
-
Since I am a tech at a Dodge Dealership I'll give you my opinion of the Magnum (RT)..... Personally I think they look awesome! I think it could be lowered about 1-2" and put a nice set of chrome wheels on it and it would look really nice! As for the HEMI, the 5.7 Hemi has really impressed me. We havent had any problems with them yet and the trannys that are behind the 5.7HEMI's in the cars are bullet proof. The ones in the trucks havent been a problem yet either but all of the tranny guys I have talked to and even when I was down at Chrysler training 2 months ago, they were even saying the trannys are bullet proof! Heres the best part about the HEMI in the new cars, since they have some cylinders shut down at cruising speeds they get very close the milage that the 3.5L V6 is getting. So you can have the power on demand and when you dont need it your still getting 20+mpg! I havent got to drive one yet but just from the looks of it, it looks like it will be a fun car to drive. Yeah its a station wagon but its one "pimp'n station wagon!" LOL I would buy one and Im only 21! Guy
-
Ok heres another thought, did you reinstall the shims for the starter after you replaced it with this new one? Probably not the problem though. Try pulling the starter off the engine by taking out the 2 mounting bolts and see if it turns over with out it connected to the engine. Thats what I would do next. This would tell you if the starter is trying to turn over the engine but the engine itself wont let it. Here's some more info for trouble shooting a "NO CRANKING CONDITION" Guy
-
LT1 starter the same as an old SBC starter?
80LS1T replied to 80LS1T's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
This is the one I am talking about.... The starter bolts for my starter are not horizontal, they go vertical. This one looks like it is for a horizontal mounting bolts? What about this type of heat shielding? Any good? (my starter looks like this one, they way it mounts) Guy -
So are you getting one click when you turn the key or multiple fast clicks when you turn the key? Guy
-
Those #'s sure are impressive for a bike! Those beat the stock #'s that my L28E had before the LT1 swap! LOL Or you could just give me your Z! Guy
-
Yeah and a lot of Audi too! I still think its ugly as all hell though! I would rather drive a FWD Neon! The 2.4L turbo, is not the same as the regular Neon engine. Yes the regular 2.0 SOHC/DOHC are know to be POS's. Headgaskets mostly. The 2.4L however was build for upgrades. I dont think I would ever buy one but you sure do get your moneys worth. I would like my GF to get one.......then I can upgrade it and she can have the payments! LOL Guy
-
I need a heatsheild for my starter on my LT1 but Im not sure if the LT1 starter is the same as an old SBC starter? Jegs sells a heatsheild for a SBC V8 for $23.00 and if its the same as a LT1 then I will just buy it rather than make one! Guy
-
Man I hope the 2nd half of this story is better than what I am picturing in my head! Guy
-
Strotter, I used to do it that way too but I always got frusterated when the darning needs would come out of the aligator clips. This way they cant! Guy
-
Are you sure they are lowering springs and not springs that have a coil cut off or ones that have been heated up to "shrink" the coils down? Cut springs or heated springs will do that. Also lowering springs often do have a slightly harsher ride when compared to a stock spring. I know my car rides a little rougher with the lowering springs as compared to the stock suspension but it also handles a lot better! Guy
-
Ditto!!!!!!! I would check the battery cables first! Trust me this is more than likely your problem! If the cables are in question at all replace them. Not just the clamps either, the whole cable as a unit. A few months ago a guy from sales(I am a Auto Tech at a Dodge dealer) asked us to put a starter in his car because it would only click once when trying to start. Now most of the time this is a starter that causes this problem, however after we installed the starter "as requested by the owner" it still only clicked. After the salesman paid for the 1 hour of diagnostics for us to check it out we found the postive cable to the starte was junk. Replaced that and the problem was gone. So he spent an extra $300 because he thought he know what the problem was. Yeah we all thought it was pretty funny! I think he learned his lesson too!
-
79 280zx Rear end and CV swap questions Help Needed Again
80LS1T replied to ToplessZ's topic in Drivetrain
The companion flanges are not the same. I had to swap them over from a 280ZXT that had the R200 and CV's. If you have an questions about the swap just let me know I also have a page on my site with some info on the swap. Guy