80LS1T

Most guys just use the Ford unit. Its close but not a perfect match. I am using a Ford and it is a little off. If you want a better set up I have heard of guys swapping in a Ford sending unit into the tank. Guy

I dont know $2800 for a old 350 built to 300HP, seems kinda high. What kind of internals are we talking about? I guess I would pay a little more if the guy building it was really well known and has a rep. for being a great engine builder. Look in the JEGS catalog and look at the prices of those engines. The GMPP 350H.O. is $2400 for a long block(no intake) If you get all the stuff they suggest with it its $3500. This engine produces 330HP and 380ft-lbs. Guy

Yeah I was talking with the engine bought already. If you get an LT1 out of Caprice or Roadmaster it will be a lot cheaper but it will have iron heads and no T56. Auto is deffinetly cheaper. Heck just about every other tranny out there is cheaper than a T56! I think you can do it for $6K if you bargin hunt and dont go crazy with making it look great(just look good). The tricky part is finding a rust free car! That alone will really eat up those $$$. Guy

"My name is Guy Grenfell, and I approved this message" Yeah feel the same way and Im only 22. I cant stand all the B.S. thats involved with voting. Just a few months ago my health inssurance deductable when up from $500 to a $2000 deductable! So the whole health care issue is actually something meaningfull to me now. Although I know the cold harsh reality of the situation like you do Mike, it wont get fixed now and it wont get fixed later. It's just one of those things that I will have to deal with. I have stopped listening to what the 2 canidates have to say, now all I care about is who can I stand to listen to for the next 4 years. My vote is for Bush. I personally cant stand even listening or even watching Kerry talk. He just annoyes me like you wouldn't believe. I think Kerry is more full of BS then Bush is but who knows for sure? Guy

My god man, you have way too many cars......better give me the Goose! or......You can park it in my driveway over here in WI and you can come dirve it when ever you want. Guy

If you want T-tops then your going to have to get a 280ZX, a 300ZX(Z31) or a 300ZX(Z32 2nd gen 300ZX). Well all the LT1/T56 have the same mounting points but the 95' LT1 is the most desired because it has the updated distributor, you can use LT1 Edit on it, and it is still OBD1 so you dont have to deal with the extra 2 o2 sensors. How much is it going to cost......yeah thats pretty much different for everyone. I have over $15,000 invested in my swap but I have a lot invested in rebuilding the motor and warming it up a little bit, not to mention all the extra stuff like gauges, wheels, body kit, paint, etc. If you just want the stock LT1/T56 then you could do if for way less. I would say if you had a car(rust free!!) with a newer suspension(if you have original it wont handle the V8's power very well) and you already had the engine/tranny.........you could do it for $2-3K pretty easily. But it all depends on what you want for a car. Do you want a fast car that looks alright...... a fast car that can win car shows...... or a car that wins shows but isnt really all that fast....? Granted most Z(X)'s with V8's are pretty fast even with stock motors. Guy

Well there are a few basics to check first.... 1. Timing 2. Spark 3. Fuel 4. Compression on all 6 cylinders If all that is good then you might have a more complicated problem, more than likely something wrong with the wiring or maybe something isnt hooked up and it should be? This is where it gets really hard to diagnose over the internet. Guy

You can also buy mounts from MSA(http://www.zcarparts.com) or I think JTR now has mounts. If you have rack and pinion they even have headers now! What they mean by "you can use the stock mounts" is that the MSA mounting kit includes 2 new engine mounts(regular 280ZX mounts) and 2 spacers that bolt onto the original rubber mounts and convert the 2 bolt mounts to a 3 bolt chevy mount. The engine bay is not longer than the Z infact it is 3" shorter. The reason you dont need the setback plates is because you cant use them because the firewall is 3" farther forward than the Z. I have pics on my site of the MSA mounts(just the spacer part, not the original rubber mounts) As for using a Turbo 350.......I wouldnt just because of the fact thats its a 3 speed. Unless you only drive in town or only drive at the track, this is not the ideal tranny. I would go with a 700R4. Plus if you go with the 700R4 you can just buy the MSA mounting kit. It has the motor mounts and a tranny mount designed for the 700R4. Personally if I had to do it over I would just make my own motor mounts. The mounts they sell are extremely simple are sure arent worth the $235(I think thats how much I paid?). Guy

So you just installed new injectors, thats it? Was it running before you took it apart? Guy

Did the 3.7 ratios even come in as an open? If not then you sent back a 3.7LSD! Have you pulled the rear cover yet? That would be my first step after determining that it is for sure coming from the rearend. Look for large metal pieces like bearing material or parts of gears. There is always a small amount of metal shavings but large pieces is deffinetly not normal! The cost of rebuilding a rear diff can get pricey when you dont know how to do it. The cost of new bearings and seals isnt so bad but if your gears are shot then its time for a different differental. But a diff rebuild normally doesnt include replacing the gears, just the bearings and seals and makig sure everything is lined up properly. So if you know how to rebuild a diff or have the paitence to learn(not really that difficult if you have a manual and the tools to do it) I would say buy some bearings and seals and rebuild it. Guy

Well I personally havent heard of that brand of adapters but a lot of guys use Modern Motorsports adapters to do exactly what your are wanting to do. Fitting 17X7's with a 225/45 is doable with those adapters. Guy P.S. before you get flamed too bad......try doing a search first this is a very common "modification" with tons of info on adapters and wheel sizes that is avaliable through the use of the search function. Just as a heads up.

Well for me it doesnt make sense at this point(i build a header for the D.S. side) to switch over to the rack & pinion steering but for a guy who doesnt have the engine installed this is great news for 280ZX V8 guys. But its going to costs about the same in the end(it would have for me anyways....Say $200 for the rack&pinion set up(all parts needed) +$310(ceramic coated D-Port 1 5/8" headers = $510 for a set of headers. Thats roughly what I have invested in my headers. I think I spent about $530ish all said and done. Of course buying the headers and installing that rack & pinion probably would have been much easier than fabing up a set of headers! I can almost gaurantee that! LOL How long have they been avaliable? Guy

Uh-oh is the ol' GNZ's time at risk.......... I mean if the man himself is saying "my arse is toast" that must mean something...... God I cant wait to see the 1/4 mile times! Guy

Are you sure your timing is on? If not then try rotating your distributor a little bit at a time until it starts then set your timing. Guy

How about a set of headers for the recirculating ball type steering! What kind of engine are you going with......EFI or Carb'd If its carb'd then there really isnt much to wire up. EFI it will depend of what kind of engine you use and what type of PCM set up you use. Guy

Im sorry did you say the DMV helped you? Wow everytime I go in there I end up with a headache and high blood pressure because if you dont have everything filled out exactly right you have to go back to the end of the line!!!!!!!!! Thats unbeileveable that the title is clean. Talk about a good luck! Guy

Ok let me see if I get this..... +battery post has a BLACK cable going to the starter........ -battery post has a RED cable going to ground...... or.... +battery post has a BLACK cable going to ground........ -battery post has a RED cable going to the starter...... I cant imagine that the starter has a Negative wire going to it.....does it? Guy

Dont have to worry about any purists over here! We love these kinds of motor swaps! Guy

Seems like an awfull lot of work for a beater. I think you could probably find a 4X4 ranger, dakota, or S10 for about the same price and it most likely wouldnt be rotten. I say move on and find 1 truck that is in decent shape. I have a 96' Dakota 4X4 3.9L V6 and its great in the winter(when I have good tread on my tires). My stepdad laughs at me because I have 4X4......yeah well he wasnt laughing when I could get out of the driveway last year when we got like 12" of snow in one night! and his 2x4 F150 was Stuuuuuuuuuuck! LOL Yeah I dropped it down into 4Low and pulled his a$$ right up the driveway when he got stuck(1/4 mile driveway, yeah I live in the woods!). He just went back in the house and didnt say much! HAHAHAH LOL Guy

I thought everyone always said that the TPI's were good for low end torque but not for high RPM's. That would be ideal for a truck wouldnt it? Guy

WOW, what kind of moron junks a car that there were only 1000 of? Good luck for you I guess, if you can find all the parts needed to restore it though! I think I also heard that the wing is still avaliable through Nissan. Guy Welcome aboard too!

So just how long is that motor? Oh and welcome aboard! Guy

Well Im pretty sure I dont have any pics of my interior before I changed it to Black/Blue but I did have the Blue/Silver interior before I changed. Do you need pics or do you just want to know what color everything is cause I can tell you what color everthing is supposed to be if thats the case? Just let me know if I can help Guy

My god 451hp and 509ft-lbs out of a 3.1LTT . Thats insane considering the small displacement. I cant wait to see the track numbers! Nice job and finish up that tuning and maybe we will see 500HP? Guy

Just as long as that wire is in good condition, the spark will not arc from that wire. However if the wire does become cracked or if it gets carbon tracking on it, it could start to acr and cause a drivablity concern. So just remeber this when your car starts to act funny. Guy