80LS1T

What kind of budget are you on? 350HP out of a SBC 350 is pretty easy but that all depends you are trying to build that with junkyard stuff or new stuff. Also how reliable do you want this engine to be? You can have 350HP pretty easy but how long do you want to have it? Is this a daily driver or a track car? Guy

I see you found a spot for your front license plate and was that drivers side mirror always there? Oh and Guy

You mike, the "HULK" is really going to have to perform pretty darn good with all this extra "hype" being built up from you not driving it and everyone wanting to see it on the road! Guy

Is that the 26"x19" Griffin? Thats what I have in my car with the SBC and I love it. It does fit perfect! Mine too runs at pretty much whatever temp I want it to, since my fan is controlled with a temperature controlled relay! Guy

I have always pulled. It seems easier to me and I have also noticed that welds when you push arent very deep. Now I know that they arent! Thanks for the post Guy

Well any engine can be turbo charged just as long as you have not only enough fuel but the correct fuel. You couldnt run 15psi on an engine with 11:1 compression even if you were running on pump gas. Even 92-93 octane in this case probably wouldnt cut it. Race fuel might be able to handle it but if the gas/fuel you are using doesnt have a high enough octane rating it will detonate before it is supposed to because of all the extra heat from the high compression and the "extra" air from the turbo. But I agree that any engine can be turbo'd, you just cant boost as much if compression is too high. Thats all. Guy

Does your car have power steering? If so that "extra" strain on the engine from the p/s pump could cause that. Guy

Um on a turbo engine you would ideally want lower compression so that you can turn up the boost. Your car should have been running lean if anything due to there being way more air than the ECU was programmed for. Maybe thats why you melted a piston? Guy

I had a Sears stick welder. Yeah it worked ok for welding thick metal but I counldnt even think about touching sheet metal. Now withmy new Lincoln Weld Pak 100 MIG welder I can weld everthing that I need to. Yeah I have about $650 into that welder for the gas coversion set up, tank, welder, and auto darkening helmet. I absolutely love it. It is supposed to be able to weld 1/4" in a single pass. I havent tried welding anything that thick yet though so I dont know. I know I love welding sheet metal with it! Yeah it only has 4 (or maybe 5, I cant remember) voltage settings but it has infinitely adjustabe wire speed. I almost bought a HOBART but I didnt know much about the brand so I went with a well known brand like Lincoln. Guy

I used Ross's adapters for my rims. I used some lug nuts that I got at Fleet Farm. 1.25 X 12mm. They were like $2.00 for a pack of 2 so $16.00 in lugs to hold on spacers. Guy

Heres what I would try.... *Make sure the car is cold like you said *Jack the car up in the rear *Put a jack stand under each rear control arm *Lower car on to jack stands *Then turn one the wheels to simulate the car moving If the noise is still there you should be able to pin point it pretty easy. What kind of diff are you running? Open or LSD of some sort? Guy

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!! That is too funny! I wish something like that would happen to me! I would just beep and smile as I drove by at the posted speed limit! Guy

I wish I could be there to see their faces when they realize how dumb they are! :malebitchslap: Guy

I thought it was 20 years actually Seems kinda weird since the part you are looking for is only 14-8 years old? Is your flange broken or do you just not have one?

You should still be able to order it though. Even if its not stocked, right? Guy

Forgive me if this seems like a "dumb" question but where exactly is the sweet spot. Is it where the peak TQ is or where the peak HP is? Guy

What...... no hood? Guy

Yeah but they probably dont fit on my engine due to the alternator being over the front edge of the passenger side valve cover. They have to be specifically for an LT1 not just center bolt. Guy

But remember guys this is for only the LT1 not a T56 too. It does seem like are really good deal though. Well it IS really really really good deal but is it 100% legit? If so snag that sucker up. Oh an would it be possible to find out what kind of valve covers those are Guy

I just want to clarify for myself....were any of the Datsuns painted with a paint like I described? My brother(who has been painting for 20+ years) told me that a lot of the older Japanese cars were painted with a laquer paint(is that even a kind of paint? I cant remember if that was what he said or if it was something else?) RacerX? Guy

Well do you want an LS1 with a 6 speed manual tranny or the 4 speed auto? LS1 + T56(6 speed manual) are usually in the ballpark of $3000-$4000 for the engine all accesories, harness, and pcm. Im not sure what years are the best. They upgraded the intake and heads I think in 2001, but Im not 100% sure on that either. LS1 + 4L60e is usually about $500-$700 less than the T56 combo. The LS1 is a 350cid(well its a little under 350, something like 346") Multiport EFI engine out of a 98-002 Camaro, TA, Firbirds and Corvettes(they also came in the 97 Vettes). Stock they are rated from 305-320HP depending on year and what it came out of. Then there is the Z06 engine LS6 which is rated at 405HP. Look at some of "mas280" posts. He is running an LS1 in his car and his putting down 398RWHP with just a cam, good intake, and good headers. And he runs a 11.2 in is car! The LS1 is the latest and greatest on here and now everyone wants one after seeing just what they can do with very minimal mods to the engine. If you supercharged one you would be just about unstoppable on the street. Now does your car already have the big brakes and good suspension? If so you got that covered so no money needs to be spent there. Since your car is new you wont need to do body work or interior. The only thing that concerns me is trying to make your gauges work. Im sure theres a way though. There always is! Guy

Well if you want reliablilty & drivablily then carb'd(sorry carb'd guys ) is out of the question. I say go LS1. Great EFI, great HP & TQ stock, and the aftermarket is getting bigger and bigger all the time for that engine. The LS1 seems to be an extremly reliable engine even when the HP is increased. How much power are you looking for? What kind of 1/4 mile times do you want? Guy Oh yeah and how much does that car weight, just out of curiousity?

Man you took the thoughts right out of my head! I totally think the 350Z is underpowder and it deffinetly needs a power upgrade some sort! But you are deffintely on your own on this one. I dont think any one else has the balls to gut a new 350Z and put a SBC or any other engine in it instead. I say if you got the balls to do it then give'r hell! Guy

Actually from what I understand...Due to the original paint being a lacquer(I think thats what it is anyways?) You really need to strip it down to bare metal to get a quality paint job. If you just paint over it, the paint will eventually crack and look like crap. The back 2 quarter panels on my car were painted somewhere along the line and the guys who painted it obviously did not know this because both panels are showing signs of this. Guy

Im not exactly an expert on the LS1's but how do the lifters stay up? Do you still have to pull the pushrods? Guy