HowlerMonkey

Seems things work better here now so corrected the thread and retract my complaints from further up. Using same computer as then and it works fine now. Thank you hybridz. Car is now running consistent 14.6 in quarter on 7.5 psi and is a daily driver with more than 50,000 miles on the swap. If it would break, I might be motivated to do more to it but had nistune issues and am waiting for the board to get back from australia so I can begin to back off the timing and start raising the boost/bigger maf/tune AFR.....etc. I installed clutch pedal from s12 which is almost identical to the first gen. maxima clutch pedal. I had to shorten it a little, bend it to clear the dead pedal (which is so sweet from the factory) and cut off much of the brake pedal. I have the entire 5 speed swap and 5 lug conversion but I'm busy driving the car so nothing further now. Made a couple of appearance changes to it..........kidding. Two dudes left to right are Matt and Frank ........I'm actually in the car trying to sort the clutch switch wiring for the two-step.

The F31 chassis is a modified R31 with the engine bay being near identical and the rear half of the car being changed the most. The F31 does not have roll down rear windows and comes factory with the 280zx style rear suspension though it's possible that shock mounting points on control arms are higher or lower than on the 280zx. You can adjust the toe on M30 rear suspension. Even though the M30/F31/nissan leopard engine bay houses a single cam vg30 like the Z31, the dimensions of the bay are different concerning crossmember location and steering rack angle as well as steering shaft angle. This means the M30 crossmember in a Z31 will have bolt holes that don't match and also means that simply drilling new/extra holes might be a bad idea since the inside of the box sections of the frame rails have reinforcement where the crossmember bolts through. I would keep the Z31 crossmember, get a front sump L28 pan (1981 to 1983 maxima), and adapt the L28 for front sump pickup, Of course, you will also need to very carefully drill a new hole in the block for the dipstick. The M30 swap I did covers much of what is needed to do it to a Z31 except for turbo/downpipe clearance of steering shaft. The most important dimension is whether the L28 turbo itself clears the steering shaft of the Z31 but you might get lucky like in my M30 and find the turbo and factory L28 elbow clear it just fine. Since the L28et stock turbo has a two piece elbow, it's not hard to make a custom pipe with a 4 bolt flange that fits as well as getting rid of the two 90 degree angles used in the stock setup. On my previous 1984 L24 turbo maxima, I made this custom pipe and reduced the two 90 degree angles to two 45 degree angles. I guess I can try to fix up the thread posted here at some point. The biggest change was needing to lower the engine relative to the mounts (the rubber is stock L24 maxima mounts). I would fix the thread posted here at hybridz but ran out of patience with the forum software change a few years back. http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/datsun-nissan-garage/7380-f31-build-leopard-or-infiniti-m30-with-l28et-swap It's a daily drive that does mid 14s in the quarter at 7.5psi on an untuned M30 ecu.........which runs 14.7 A/F ratio during daily driving and dips to 11.8 under boost with stock 280zx turbo injectors. I'm sure that the "under boost" will get leaner the more boost I throw at it but everything's perfect at this time though I would like a more turbo friendly timing curve.

I've put 55,000 miles on the Infiniti M30 since the L28ET replaced the VG30. I'm just waiting for something to break or I will simply keep on driving it.

http://www.lowmileageparts.com/default.aspx select nissan and go to page 3 and 4 not sure if it's real of bs

Completely different harness. The ecu type has at least twice as many pins and where the engine harness meets the body harness you have differences. I put a 1982 turbo harness into an earlier zx and the entire harness was different whether it was for the doors, dash, engine, fuse box, .....etc. If you have a donor car, get the entire harness.

He's mentioning the splitter because that means he's managing how much air gets under the car. If the splitter is low enough, there will be no air to manage at the rear of the pan.

That hood scoop's main purpose is to allow the column of super hot air off the turbo to escape the confinement of the engine compartment.............after you've parked the car. Same goes for the scoop in the pre 1987 300zx.......which was done away with once they went to dual feed injectors. It's there mainly to combat vapor lock though I guess it does help keep the master cylinder cooler while driving.

Brown paper felpro exhaust manifold gasket?

I looked for the signal waveform and had not much luck. Any idea what the tooth count is?

A long and skiny tube to a standard map sensor works as long as you don't have a leak near the sensor. You do have to pick where you are porting the sensor carefully so you don't get problems with venturi effect causing low readings. If you want to go all out, get a DLP solutions I08 and datalog 8 channels in nistune.

I like that curve in the exhaust manifold to turbo pipe.

We're at 2700hp without having to go with a billet block........but we are destroked to allow 11,000 rpms or more. Sadly, it such an unbelievably wide engine.

Back in the 1980s when brake cleaner was chlorinated, you could have someone sit in the car on the lift as you welded on the floors and the brake cleaner would put out any fires that started. Then in 1991, they changed the formulation to something that burns with great vigor. This brought about the inevitable huge poof of flame accompanied with brake cleaner sprayer diving out of the car, falling six feet, and performing a ninja-like landing on his way for the fire extinguisher. Of course, the original formula would release phosgene gas when superheated but it would instantly douse the fire.

Mine picks up the excess boost right in front of the throttle plate and dumps it into the boot on the turbo inlet. It is such that it is pointed toward the inlet at a 45 degree angle which should help it not billow backwards out the air flow meter. The recirc valve is open when at idle which has no bad effect since it is recirc. instead of vented and it had zero effect on idle. The junkyard is full of volvos or saabs that have the components to make this......just time to take things apart and measure.

Also remember that the bypass valve for the oil filter on cooler equipped cars is on the adapter and not on the block. This means you get no bypass from your oil filter because that hole has a plug in it replacing the ball valve. This is not a bad thing. If you keep your oil clean enough to not clog the filter, you probably won't have issues.

I believe tony is talking about dished pistons negating squish vs flat tops.

I have had good luck with ishino LOL......this is the default text size when I logged in after being away a while. No wonder I rarely come here anymore.

Next I will try a couple of p79s on that same block.......one pristine and one that likely rarely saw anything than rusty water.

Multiple P90 on the same f54 block .....same gasket.....same thermostat and housing.. ( I usually buy head gaskets 4 or 5 at a time)

I've made an observation when swapping heads....... One head I have came off an engine that possibly went 5 years on straight water. (It took a very long time to get the coolant clear) This head runs without any sort of heat issues on extended high power pulls while all of my other pristine heads start to run hot. I'm wondering if the thin casting flash has corroded away?

I've seen engines throw a rod once oil temperature reaches around 300 degrees.........that seems to be the magic number common in about 10 instances I have seen over the years of racing various nissan inline and V6 cars. Your water temperature might not give you a good indication of oil temperature.

This is not simple regenerative braking. The turbo center section is a motor sandwiched between the hot side and the compressor. LOL.......forum software won't even let me generate a link using the tools or even paste in any text..........let me type the entire link with the keyboard because of the suckage. cdn.images.autosport.com/editorial/1357915433.jpg

I later went back after A&P at SIU Carbondale and worked on some of the junk at Miami international airport after the eastern machinists strike of 1989 effectively bounced me out of the eastern airlines pilot entry program. Mercedes could be using the electric coupled turbo on next year's F1 engine. For some reason, I can't post images..............forum software stops dead. Now I remember why I don't post here anymore. You will just have to guess what I am talking about.

Dropping resistor unit and pigtail that plugs into it........if your car has them. Also........make a pigtail out of the harness and plugs for the alternator. They come in handy when doing swaps.

There are also at least two different length bolts......even between 1981 and 1983.