HowlerMonkey

Many L28 setups will ping/detonate if run at high rpms on the highway that wouldn't even when thrashed in "around town driving".

I picked up a complete l28e from the junkyard after turning it using the fingers of my right hand on the alternator and then the balancer using both hands. It's been in service ever since.

LD28 in running condition has become more valuable than it's crank alone recently.

Printing some pistons in pandalloy, soon.

F54 with P79 in good shape is well worth 200 bucks. Mine puts 219hp to the wheels with 7 pounds of boost on a dyno dynamics chassis dyno with an untuned M30 ecu.

LOL.....refresh it 27 times and it won't display the new post.

Remember that oil is not what it was when these engines were produced.

What do the rules say about leaving the headlight holes open and using some creative ducting to send the air to a low pressure area that won't add to lift of the car? That seems like a good way to reduce "frontal area".

As far as time for oil to show up top after rebuild or pump, my Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 that I rebuilt never showed oil up top until I got impatient and simply started. Upon starting, I got almost instant oil pressure and a check of the vr4 forums showed similar stories. What I took from that experience is that a liberal amount of super slick assembly lube combined with the substantially higher rpms encountered by running the engine might work best.......provided your pump isn't dry or there is another problem. I'm pretty sure even cranking rpms are bad for lobes after a certai

TB48 or 1FZ, if they fit, are the future for the top hp builds.

I've only seen one "bad ecu" that wasn't directly killed by the owner by jumping the car backwards and fusing the zener diode and the injector drivers. Howlermonkey.......former general manager of blue streak's ecu rebuilding facility. Tell us the symptoms and maybe we can save you the hassle of unnecessary ecu appropriation.

Leave the exit at the back of the cylinder head connected to the heater core and parallel the core with a small cooler that's located up front of the car. Sure, you will have two extra lines on the right side of the engine going forward but there really isn't anything else occupying all that empty space anyway. The heater still works and you alleviate the problem of introducing hot coolant back to the water pump inlet.

That post belongs in a wiki entry or something. Thanks for the information.

Somewhere there is a transmission dimensions thread which details that the pathfinder transmission has the shifter a bit closer to the bellhousing than would likely work in a z31.

One Friday night in 1981, I jump started one 2000gt and gassed up another. I grew up thinking they were all over the place and common...........LOL.

I'm curious about the offering from racingpartdepot in that they have 4 different links for the same application. Any ideas if they are all the same part?

The proper comparison is not a 4 cylinder celica liftback vs a Z car but rather a celica supra vs a Z car. The celica supra is still way low on horsepower vs weight as compared to the Z car of the same years and once the celica supra got into 174hp territory, the zx was in turboland. I believe the original poster's friend is referencing a built first generation celica supra liftback with a built 7mgte but even that is an uphill battle against a similarly modified Z car of the same vintage. There's a reason Nissan has all the race wins.

I've been running a flattop f54 and p90 using untuned infiniti m30 ecu with it's non-turbo ignition timing scheme.......which probably has too much timing advance for a turbo engine and it has been running fine for at least 5 years. I'm running it in a relatively heavy m30 car with stock 280zx turbo automatic and 3.54 r200 and it puts down high 14 second 1/4 mile at 7 psi boost. I can't run 87 octane in this combo and 93 octane is $4.25 per gallon. Getting the ignition timing curve more turbo friendly will surely help this setup and allow the usage of much more boost. I

Nice to get an update on this famous Z.

I used to use a baby moniter when at home and a normally closed relay to turn it on when the ignition is off.

The misfire is the reason for high HC. If it is a consistent misfire every time around, check your plugs and determine which one is wet? If you find a wet plug, check the valve clearance on that cylinder. Run your engine at night and look for sparks from the wires.

I've never had trouble with standard Purolator filters and Castrol gtx 20/w-50 oil........especially in a long used engine. I've seen multiple tests and both end up near the top against far more expensive options. If your engine is brand new with perfect clearances, you might get something more from a thinner oil concerning miles per gallon and oil pressure from a cold start but I find 20w-50 works well in any but the coldest climates. interesting reading at the link below http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

If you're moving your reference source for the waste gate from the stock location to the intake manifold, remember that your actuator diaphragm will now be seeing vacuum as well as pressure. I get around that by using a "grainier valve" for boost control which also acts as a check valve so the vacuum spike of decel at high rpms doesn't suck the life out of the actuator.

Biggest issue is that the pathfinder trans. Has the shifter closer to the bell housing.

You might try leaving your "short shifter" mod there and lengthening the shifter such that your throws are back to the same distance as before. You might like it or hate it but you won't know until you try it.