HowlerMonkey

That's with a 37mm restrictor.

SCCA GT2 has a few Z33s with around 380hp N/A

At toyota, we use a "wax" that's heated and then sprayed into the interior of the frame. It's unbelievably expensive. One thing to make sure you do is not gum up any paths of drainage within the unibody.

No, that doesn't help but I am curious how the coil head is sealed to the plug "boot" to gain that level of water proofing.

What I've found is that coils designed to be protected from the elements by a deep tube in the cylinder head are often less durable......at least the portion that the manufacturer assumed would be protected by the tube. Has anybody tested these types of coils with a misting of water?

Tires are 225 but i didn't catch the other important size numbers. Lots of guys have track records on 60 series tires because they maintain a bigger footprint through non-optimal camber changes than a square shouldered 60 series tire. Rim size vs tire size matters in contact patch area.

Did I miss a new pope being elected? If your car is automatic (unlikely) it could be sipping trans. fluid through the modulator. Also.........oil introduced after combustion can smoke white.

Sanford Silverberg won ITS races with a S130. There are quite a few cars racing in SCCA that run insane spring rates because they listened to the guy who said "any suspension will work..........if you don't let it." Kind of the opposite of Colin Chapman. Depending on your car, you have to decide which is better.

I've gathered 5 pairs but am one set short. The CB966p (no longer manufactured) are steel backed while the CB966a are aluminum. Any ideas that won't throw the balance off if I can't source one?

8 years on..... Car is now 3000hp. We still run at Kennedy space center runway which was renamed "Johnny bohmer proving grounds". I stopped making input with the project after they installed those tubes to the boxes in the back to pick up dirt and low pressure air behind the rear tires. I'm sure the air brought in from the stock location (high pressure area on deck in front of deck lip) was more than enough but........... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQKDgEAYylSy6fcE6bwD3EQ I feel a p79 or p90 head on an f54 block with flat tops has enough squish to keep detonation down in naturally aspirated form. Being able to change the timing curve to your needs is a huge plus. Running a functional egr system will allow more advance during light throttle driving. A lot of l28/f54 will detonate at stock base timing witj 87 if the egr is not working because many ecus may advance spark if it assumes the egr is working. This has nothing with full throttle operation but it is where I find l28 to ping most often.

They make "retarders" for driveshafts on some trucks so it's likely you could find one that does both "retard" and "drive". https://www.telmausa.com/products/operating-principle

They look a lot like the recaro KRS seats but not sure if they have made them since the 1990s. Back then, the "LS" seats had the small bolsters and the KRS had the big bolsters.

Remember that once a balancer has been run loose, it could beat the key and keyway grooves up.

Too small a gap has made my l28et idle rough at cold starting.

The distributor drive is off by 180 degrees? You can easily check this by removing the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointed when you're on tdc #1 and also seeing if the cam lobes for that cylinder are pointing up instead of downward. A field fix would be marching the plug wires around until #1 sits in the cap where the rotor is pointed

The improved touring guys love these. We used to sell them at electrodyne and I remember having one on the counter to set up for showroom display and thinking to would be fine with proper reinforcement.

Curious whether it is using a mechanical fuel pump since the most P79s are not cut for it.

I once worked on a honda that ran fine until it warmed up. Despite everything checking OK, the distributor cap and rotor would arc internally...............but never when cold.....only warm.

Porsche couldn't call their 1965 type 901 because Peugeot had trademark on three digit identification with a zero for the middle digit. Porsche named it the 911 instead.

I know for sure that I've bolted a square port turbo manifold to a round port head with liners many times. Sadly, the line above has no bearing on this topic. I run the grey composition gaskets that are thicker than the paper gaskets from fel pro.

If the cylinder head temp sensor isn't hooked up, it will go full rich and flood the engine.

Would be cool if you could fit VVT sprockets to the cams.

Here is a link to the nissan diesel guys. They may even know where to source the proper thickness head gasket. http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3513&sid=b31391d8d27f0b9d29784c4151866d4f I did look at a Ld28 head I have and the holes are much larger than the ones for the head bolts on a l28. I am having trouble finding the head bolts for this one.

I've see that happen when an 1157 bulb was either installed 180 off or the socket was causing the parking lights to backfeed up the turn signal wire.

If you use a "grainger valve" it will protect your diaphragm from excessive vacuum and you can adjust the boost. It acts as a one way valve allowing only pressure to reach the diaphragm. You can plumb it to the intake manifold without worry. You just have to make sure you have that tiny hole between the diaphragm and the valve so the wastegate will close again. As with any changes to boost control............take the first drive ready to back off the throttle in case things aren't right. Also.....what kind of timing and curve do you have going on?