HowlerMonkey

Would be cool if you could fit VVT sprockets to the cams.

Here is a link to the nissan diesel guys. They may even know where to source the proper thickness head gasket. http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3513&sid=b31391d8d27f0b9d29784c4151866d4f I did look at a Ld28 head I have and the holes are much larger than the ones for the head bolts on a l28. I am having trouble finding the head bolts for this one.

I've see that happen when an 1157 bulb was either installed 180 off or the socket was causing the parking lights to backfeed up the turn signal wire.

If you use a "grainger valve" it will protect your diaphragm from excessive vacuum and you can adjust the boost. It acts as a one way valve allowing only pressure to reach the diaphragm. You can plumb it to the intake manifold without worry. You just have to make sure you have that tiny hole between the diaphragm and the valve so the wastegate will close again. As with any changes to boost control............take the first drive ready to back off the throttle in case things aren't right. Also.....what kind of timing and curve do you have going on?

Did they sell the "shiro" as 1989 model year or were they all 1988?

I have one as well and considering just a short rubber coupler going to a throttle body with cable actuation. I guess two throttle body back to back with plate removed out of one would be super easy but likely look pretty ghetto. I think 60mm TB is as big as one should go since I've driven a super responsive n/a l28 with the Q45 throttle body and found modulating it at low throttle openings difficult since you need very little throttle angle to greatly effect power production. I mean...........the toyota GTP car made 800+hp with a 54mm restrictor and bob lentz's gt2 350z makes north of 380hp with a 30mm restrictor on a normally aspirated vq engine.

I've run stock non/turbo/manual pumps on a ZX turbo engine for years. That said, I pulled one off a non-destroyed KA24 truck engine and it looks pretty big. There is a thread............... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98987-l6-oil-pump-differences/ Sadly, photobucket has ruined it.

The reason a stock type intake can make so much horsepower is that it is feeding all six cylinders while we have a single SU for each 3 cylinders or one venturi per cylinder for triples. We've known this for many years in improved touring but the downside is that you can only run the injection intake on a car 1975 or newer meaning at least 200 pounds heavier as per the rules as well as having to run a cylinder head/piston/cam combination not nearly as radical as what was available for early 240z. I feel a well sorted F54/flat tops with a P90 head optimized for normally aspirated running with best stock injection intake could make great power depending on how much you shave the head for the sake of compression ratio. Has anybody tried the LD28 intake on a hot built N/A engine?

Just remove the name "nissan". What I don't understand is the thousands of advertisements using every single manufacturer name in their listings for a crappy generic plastic aftermarket part. Why aren't they subject to the same treatment?

I will try to check what I have and compare the head bolts when I have time. I do know that some people have had rod bolts break or back off resulting in a ruined engine but again......will have to check diameter as compared to L28.

You don't want the benefit of knowledge of someone who has already been there? Isn't the CAS supported by a single bearing while the distributors have both a lower and upper bushing? I'm just saying you might get more movement than is optimal which will prematurely wear parts.

The connector that is part of the TPS is just swiches.........one or two depending on whether turbo application.........maybe none on other cars. The grey connector is what has the potentiometer you will need. I run a M30 ecu on my L28et and it won't work without the grey connector.

If not for the screw spacing, you can likely use one from some of the later vg30 single cam engines like a nissan quest or pathfinder. Just have to make sure it has two connectors.......one for the switch and one for the sensor.

One based on an ipad would be cool.

Also be aware that Z31 rubber and trim are super rare with mirror seals being all but impossible to find.

Are you running a genuine nissan thermostat?

Is the oil pump shaft getting enough support? Designs I played around with for your application of sensor had a bearing in the spacer.

Sensor light is triggered by mileage. Now if you've lost a ground and the car is seeking ground through the light......................

Clevite stopped making the steel and now only make aluminum for the L28.

I question that must be asked is also "aluminum or steel?" I know Clevite discontinued L engine bearings with steel backing and only offer the aluminum. Some builders claim no trouble with the aluminum ones but I'm sure there is a weight difference which may need to accounted.

Didn't the dealerships perform a recall where they installed thick heat insulators over the fuel lines of the 260z?

This problem is likely looseness in the tension rod bushings causing big caster changes.

The problem is the offset. A z31 wheel is more of a front drive type offset with almost zero dish as viewed from the outside while the Z car expects one with closer to zero offset.

Been swapping from rotella 15w40 and castrol standard 20w50. Staying now with 20w50 since all my stuff is now super high mileage. At another forum is a good text only post of test results. This same testing lies elsewhere and has pretty pictures but it loaded with advertisements in between. http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31363

I think the Z31 digital gauges had a module that went between a split speedo cable. Not sure what signalling it used or whether it was similar to the later speed sensors.