HowlerMonkey

About 70% of the times I have seen this, it is after a stereo installation in which one of the OEM wires providing lighting to the original stereo or panel lighting nearby is shorted to ground.

The timeframe of failure means the part is on the engine and subject to engine heat. Some will refire after "getting over the hump" and run all day just fine..........until the next cold start cycle. This normally points to the electronics in or on the distributor.

What is the angle of the transmission vs the KA engine as compared to the L engine? I think there might be an angle difference of sorts.

Which permatex? I'm not a big fan of the non-hardening brown stuff because I've seen this happen before as well as seen gaskets using non-hardening permatex products actually squeeze out from between the two parts they are sealing a few hours later. You come out the next morning and find gaskets sticking out. Some swear by no sealant at all but that strategy depends on a perfect surface. At toyota, I used only a very thin film of their red threadlocker and installed them right before I went home. I like loctite 603 or 609 now.

I walk around the upull yards where you find volvos and saabs and can usually come up with something that is very close to optimal after trimming.

I think they make wrenches for inner tie rods on steering racks that might fit the bill......still might come up short, though.

Thanks.....any possible sources is good to know. I'll have to use what fits best. I haven't studied the SD engines too much beyond servicing a few forklifts and I've since moved on to boxy cars with two doors simply because it's hard to find body and interior parts for the older rear drive nissans. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8042/8023620398_c07e14aa62_z.jpg

I'll bet this would help the LD28 I am rebuilding for turbo usage. Thanks for blazing the trail for others to follow.

Cylinder walls are washed down clean of oil by the fuel giving falsely low compression readings?

What does adding 1 point of compression have to do with this at all? Your example is missing a lot of data points and it would be necessary to show the configuration of the engine used in your example to even get close to having enough information to prove your point. I relayed real life A vs B comparison with as many variables kept the same as possible. I didn't do one comparison at death valley at 40 degrees and the other at denver at 100 degrees but rather both at sea level at a density altitude of about 18 feet. Tony still has to deliver some sort of proof of all these 1100hp L28s used for endurance racing he mentioned above.

Change the oil

I've done it......and I cut an identical relief on the rear valance.

Going by the point you made above, 10 pounds of boost to the same engine will increase combustion efficiency decrease the amount of gases exhausted as in your example? If not, what makes it different? Some variables are not being considered. I'm just relaying real life observations through experience gained in the field and tony's stirring the pot.

I've shortened the slave rod twice in my career and can't recommend it without a caveat. On one car, I drove it 40,000 after shortening the rod. On the other car, I drove it 2 weeks before the ball snapped off the transmission because it's 30 years of wear caused a pattern that did not like extra angle of the fork vs ball I had induced by shortening the rod instead of getting everything else correct. You might get away with it but you might not.

I've compared my car with stock F54 and flattops (stock), pulled the engine, installed dished pistons, and went to the drag strip a week later with no other changes to the engine and found a substantial difference in spooling time between flattops and dished. When staging on the brake to build boost with an automatic at the drag strip, you will immediately notice the difference. Compression equals heat. Turbo technology has advanced to the point that getting a "wide torque curve" is possible with a newer design single. I just don't see needing compounding for a street car even though our shop makes daily drivers with 1500+hp.

Most useful compound turbo setups as used on high performance gasoline engines are there because the horsepower level they desire requires a turbo so large that the engine has trouble spooling it. Some of these engines run such a low compression ratio that the engine cannot spool this large turbo when off boost.....regardless of rpm. Sure, the smaller turbo can greatly decrease lag but most are using the small turbo simply to give the engine enough boost as to greatly increase exhaust flow in the interest of spooling up the main turbo. The simple answer is that nobody has built a L28 that could handle the horsepower level......and it's possible that the L28 head will never flow enough to make it worthwhile vs a well researched single turbo.

Movin the fork from there isn't easy even with a stock clutch. Can you wiggle the fork at all or is it solidly pushed against the housing? If your clutch slave is for a 280zx turbo, it is possible the push rod is longer for that application when used on a n/a transmission.....if it fits at all.

Don't put the led anywhere near the windshield. I used to repo cars for falcon international in miami beach during the late 80s and I modified a stun gun (thunder woman) by attaching a spark plug lead to one electrode with an alligator clip on it the car and putting the stun gun electrode against the windshield as near as you can get to the led of the alarm while pulling the trigger. Eventually, you will get a spark to jump to the led and the alarm is done.........and possibly a bunch more of the car's systems. It worked and I didn't bake any ecus doing it.

Strange how posts on topic of "high rpm shifting dynamics" have disappeared from this thread. If someone deletes my posts, please PM me and explain the reason.

What I described above is a test and it pretty much disables anything the hoses are connected to on the intake manifold other than the "vacuum control valve" which is actually a small blow off valve. It's a good setup for testing but I've been running it that way for 40,000 miles. I would also clean the throttle body with a rag and some carb cleaner which can bring down your base idle to something that won't idle at all.

When I suspect any of the usual suspects on the intake manifold, I simply remove the crazy T section (or is it F shaped) and replace it with two hoses. One goes from the valve on the intake manifold of cylinder 4 to the J pipe and the other goes from the regulator to the idle air control actuator. Most of the hoses are probably cracked anyway. Easy test. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6066/6116930413_17e6c40377_b.jpg

Easy.....it's the one you can't get for your proper LD28 because a bunch of L28 guys bought them up to keep thier stroker crankshafts happy as they slowly rust away.

I'm discussing input shaft mass and it's affect on synchros.

Edit function is a bit screwey.

Yes, and it's mass is substantially more than a 8 inch input shaft. This beats up the synchros.