HowlerMonkey

Maybe he has fuel pooled in the intake manifold. I've seen a L28 run for 5 minutes with the fuel pump electrical connector unplugged at the dealership.

I can pick up LT1 and VH45 all day long for less than 200 bucks at the yards around here but a LSX will not be found anywhere near those prices.

You're welcome to put 5w-30 in a 150,000 mile Z car and I will bet it has near zero oil pressure at idle when warm. My point is that it was too thin for the application. Probably too thin for a high mileage L28 as well.

Careful with the thin oil like 10w-30. I recently fixed a volkswagen that someone had hydrolocked and filled the intercooler and intake piping with nearly 2 gallons of water. After running 3x oil changes that day of cheap castrol 20w-50 through it, the owner decided he wanted synthetic so he went and got some expensive 5w-30. The car was fine until you ran it hard enough to get some heat into the oil and immediately lit the low oil pressure light along with VVT hardware clacking. We let the car cool all day, restarted it and it was fine......until we got some heat into the oil again. I checked the owners manual and found that it specified 5w-40 oil and saw a footnote mentioning that 5w-30 was only to be used if you were adding 1qt or less to the recommended 5w-40 oil. We put the 5 quarts we had left of castrol 20w-50 and it's fine as it is already 83 degrees at 7:00 am and the car has over 100k miles. First time I had ever run into new oil that was too thin once warmed. I will not use any oil with a "30" at the end. I also went away from fram a long time ago and run purolator filters.

Push the arm near the slave back in toward the slave. If you get no movement and it seems tight, then something is not dimensionally correct. If you do get movement, then your clutch is not up to it. A clutch, when slipped hard on a launch, can fade just like brakes do at high temperature.

They had them on the audi Le Mans cars we ran aero testing on at Kennedy Space Center early in the year.

914 tech doesn't transfer well to cars with a different configuration. I drove a 914/6 with steel GT flares and 8 inch fuchs and went through many torsion bar/sway bar combinations. Getting rid of the rear one once spring rates went up helped.

Using a good penetrant and time will greatly help getting that broken bolt out. Heat almost always works but localized heat around the bolt hole on the deck may cause it to not be level in that area or even compromise the shape of the bore if it's near the bore.

In 914s we used to use high rate torsion bars and only an adjustable front bar to fine tune the roll stiffness distribution.....no rear bar at all and some guys experimented with running no sway bars.

But it's like 10 bucks a quart. I ran castrol 20w-50 for 20 years but now run the above mentioned rotella T 15w-40 because I see it on sale for less than most any other oil. It comes in 4 quart jugs and I still find it at 12.99 sometimes.

Check where the negative battery cable bolts to the engine or bellhousing/starter bolts and make sure it has good connection. You can quickly test this by using the black jumper cable lead between the negative battery terminal and a bracket on the engine. While you are there, why not also connect the red cable to a bracket on the engine and run the other side to a bolt that holds the front strut to the body. Remember that only the negative side is to be dealt with and there will be no connecting anything to the positive battery terminal. What you are doing is guaranteeing that both the body and engine have a good ground which is quicker than removing cables and terminals. If that fixes it, then you can start cleaning connections. Also remember that your issue could stem from a bad battery terminal so make sure that is kosher or the tests above will do nothing for you.

That's very similar to the vibration you get in a 280zx or Z31 300zx when the transmission mount sags until it's metal shell is solidly on the crossmember......meaning it acts like a solid mount.

I know that. It was referencing your assumption and rant.

Maybe he is referencing the front crossmember?

I'm sure you can find a complete L28 block from a non-turbo 280zx (F54 with p79) and simply swap the turbo externals onto it. They are pretty cheap and will live with 10psi or less for years if it is simply swapped for the L28et lump as long as your injectors and engine management are working properly. I would recommend running it at the stock boost for a bit before moving toward more boost. Also....you should use 93 octane with that setup to be safe and then experiment from there.

I see that burning often. The smaller burnt trace goes directly to two relatively large Zener diodes while the larger burnt area is on the line that comes directly from the fuse links that also gives the positive to the injectors. The most common causes of this are.... 1. Battery connected with reverse polarity or car jumped with reverse polarity. 2. Body ground from negative battery terminal to engine lacking causing car to seek ground through the ecu or said lifted ground causing a great overcharge from the alternator. 3. Battery loose and either tipping to cause positive terminal to touch hood, A/C lines, or some other part that is grounded to engine or body. 4. Wiring of sensors or grounds on the engine management system with incorrect polarity. It's just something to look for before having to get another ecu. Other damage you might see is injector drivers fused closed meaning they are always on when the key is on and zener diodes "blown open".

They don't burn on thier own. Something caused it. If that something has been corrected already, you should have no further issues.

It seems the pathfinder/quest/frontier family of ecus is a dead end until either nistune makes a board for them or someone releases a way to edit the "configuration file". The intent was to find a good and never ending cheap source of ecus that could be flashed through the data link connector as in the 1999 and later ecus. Nobody is offering any tuning for that family of ecus that I know of unless nistune released a new board recently though it is possible that 1999 and later ecus would be the best candidates since some nissan tuning suites for flashable ecus do go back that far.....but they don't mention any vehicle with this family of ecu. That said, you could fit the harness and ecu from a supercharged frontier/xterra and run 260cc injectors untuned on your l28et but it's not worth the effort and you would still have to satisfy that ecu's need to see a crank angle sensor that reads the flywheel (used for obdII misfire and other diagnostics...but not the acctual running of the car) You would have a check engine light without it. It's obvious that the Z32 or maxima VE30de ECU coupled with nistune is way to go for coil on plug type goodness on a L28 while the standard L28et distributor type would work best with the M30 ecu or, if you don't need consult, the maxima single cam ecus. Since the VE30de and the VG30de (non turbo) ecus as found in the maxima and Z32 already come with 260cc injectors (same size as stock L28et), both would be fine without tuning on the L28et at stock boost.......if you can satisfy the ecu with the waveform outputted by the factory CAS. The VG30DETT, of course, has even larger injectors. While the VE30de is relatively rare in junkyards, the same sensor (but with V8 encoder disc and slightly longer case) is available on the more commonly found in junkyards. The VE30de disc will bolt into the Q45 sensor but you are still left with having to machine it so you can mount it to your L28 engine or take it apart and transfer both the disc and sensor to the proper fitting "distributor" of your choice. Same goes for the VG30DE disc which seems to be exactly the same as the VE30DE disc but inside a different case. The smaller diameter of the two discs means you can't simply swap them into a L28et distributor as you would a VG30 disc to run a z31 ecu unless you want to do what is necessary to fit the smaller disc and then fit or modify the sensor that can read it. All of the ecus mentioned above would need dropping resistors to run the L28et low impedence injectors unless you can find some pretty rare top feeds from the CA18DE pulsar SE. They are also a bit more rare to find and expensive than the original quest/frontier/xterra ecus and the wiring harnesses you could pull would be far older. The goal of super cheap and abundant OBDII ecus and harnessing that will run on a L28ET using the VG30 encoder disc was not reached. It seems this is another "earlier is better" story and I've long ago gone on to other ecus but wanted to finish out this thread. If I do find a software suite that can inexpensively tune the late obdII ecus, I will post a further update.

Sweet!! Did you yell "give my creature life!" when it started? Welcome to hybridz. Everything Z or most anything else is here.

Z cars have been doing this since 1984 and it's usually the alternator.

The maxima 4n71b is a short tailshaft trans. and should be the exact same length as the 3n71b long shaft transmissions. The one I had (1984) had a 38mm outer diameter on the driveshaft yoke and simply putting the calipers on splined output shaft of the tranny was 27mm. Another maxima 4n71b had a 35mm outer diameter of the driveshaft yoke and the calipers showed that the splined output shaft was the same thickness as the 3n71b trans. for a non-turbo 280zx from 1982 (less than my caveman measurement of 27mm from above). A 3n71b from a 280zx turbo has the thicker output shaft (27mm)as referenceed above but with the 35mm outer diameter of the yoke. The maxima 4n71b from 1984 uses a very strange way for the transmission mount in that it is a bit of a cradle with two mounts on either side which mount to the tailshaft housing bolts. One other thing to consider is that some with the first generation maximas trying to go from a 3n71b to the 4n71b had transmission tunnel clearance issues around where the tailshaft housing mounts to the transmission case because it's a bit larger than the thin and long tailshaft from some 3n71b. The floor pan is different between the manual/3n71b maximas and the 4n71b maximas because of this.

Saw a buddy take a ride into his tool box while he rode on the window sill.

If you get a piston hot enough to close up the ring end gap solid, you can break ring lands. Our 2000+hp engine runs some pretty big ring end gaps.

Man.....you always have some sort of interesting solutions. I did some research and still can't find a conventional distributor cap for that Z31 distributor but I will let you know how the "s30red240z VG30 distributor modification" works on the pathfinder distributor. It is wider so it might interfere with the water housing or heat shielding.

It won't be on the "injection harness" but rather the body harness that serves the alternator. If you still have access to your donor car or any 280zx near you, I would simply cut that portion of the harness as long as you can and splice it into whatever you are using the your car harness. It can get pretty complex since your car probably had an external regulator as original equipment so be careful with our splicing.