HowlerMonkey

Definitely replace the studs for the manifolds since it is out of the car. If it's got 100k+ miles, and you're itching to do something, throwing in some new standard size rod bearings and replacing the 30 year old rod bolts with either new Nissan ones or arp bolts will probably get you another 100,000 miles out of it and ease your mind when revving it. I would replace the rear main and front crank seals. If you're simply going to put it in and start it, you should have no issues as long as you ensure you can get oil pressure right away. You can look into the spark plug holes with one of those harbor freight skinny lights and look at the cylinder walls a little and taking off the valve cover to look for rust on the lobes is a good idea as is pouring some good oil on the camshaft before you crank it to start it the first time.

Is this the one that used to run NE division races at summit point in the late 1980s?

I'm pretty sure the only difference is PRNDL switch might signal the ecu to idle up when the car is put into any gear other than P or N on an automatic car while the manual ecu might not have that functionality. So you might not get idle up functionality as triggered by the shifter position but it may be possible the ecu will try to maintain target idle speed anyway. It's possible that the pin on the ecu that receives the signal (pin 10) will do nothing but there is always the possibility that the pin has been repurposed for other functionality on a manual transmission car which might conflict with the signals sent by the automatic vehicle.......which is usually a ground sent to that terminal.....but not always. Check pin 10 for continuity to ground with the ecu unplugged and key off to see if you get it when in any gear other than park or neutral. If you can find them, check the 1983 manual transmission electrical diagram and compare it to the 1981 or early 82 diagram which is for automatic cars only.

My thought is that debris went down the oil supply hole when the block surface was cleaned and was pushed back up by oil pressure until it ran into the gasket and got stuck there causing a restriction.

If you plan to swap crossmembers with a 280zx, remember to consider they type of sump required for each crossmember.

I'm pretty sure it's thinner lash pads that cause problems with retainers because the rocker will contact the the retainers with super thin lash pads.

And they sometimes don't like to be driven out and replaced so be careful.

Why not run the infiniti M30 setup. It uses the type II board and will use the same signaling from the distributor as the Z31 and it gives you Nissan consult port.

unplug the 02 sensor and drive the car again to see if it makes a difference.

That steering box puts a hurting on header selection or trying for turbo sweetness. As far as ZX to 810 ecu, years are very important as there were probably 3 or 4 different fuel pump schemes with changes an amount of fuel pump relays and pinout from year to year. What I do know is that a 1982 zx n/a ecu will go into a 1984 maxima as will the air flow meter but that was more lucky coincidence and I doubt it would be as easy on earlier year bodies. If the crossmembers are the same between the later maxima with rack and pinion and the 810, it would greatly simplify things but header or turbo routing is still an issue concerning clearance of the steering shaft as I had to make a custom down pipe for the turbo since neither the z31 elbow nor the 280zx turbo elbow would clear the shaft when I turbo'd a 1984 maxima. Also.....if your 810 has engine mount brackets that sweep backwards to meet the engine mounts on the crossmember, they could also interfere with headers.

........trying to make one plug and play or easily grafted into specific vehicle harnesses. For S130, would there be interest in M30 ecu incorporated into a n/a harness or one that is already turbo or would people prefer it standalone? Is there interest in Z31 with M30 ecu? Would people prefer Z32 style harnessing with the extra effort into getting crank reference without modifying an already expensive 82/83 280zx turbo distributor but rather using a modified cam angle sensor from later cars? Just gathering some ideas

If your L28 has a p79 head, a mechanical fuel pump is out of the equation. Strangely, the P90 turbo heads bring back the mounting boss hole.

I have a L28 in an infiniti M30 and used the 240sx fan clutch and swapped the 280zx fan blade to the opposite side of the clutch which gave me the blade tip clearance I needed as well as being able to add washers to space it further back. Remember also that the transmission mount controls quite a bit of the fore/aft engine locating so a new one might help more than new engine mounts which either harden or simply separate rather than get soft in the case of the 280zx.

Which electramotive engine specs are you interested in? They had at least two and probably more spec. engines. IMSA GTU trim. IMSA GTO turbo trim. A few might have been made to SCCA GT and trans-am rules as well. Probably the most developed would be the last configuration as raced in the mid 80s in GTO by a crewchief of electromotive..........might have been someone else......just a quick mention during a race. The company who did the cylinder head would have the secret recipe and I doubt they are willing to part with it but I'll bet they would build another one for a paying customer if they are still doing that engine family. http://www.sloversportingservice.com/default.html We had a few we picked up when we sourced the basic car to build into Bob Lentz's GT2 car but I'm not sure if Brian from "Datsun dynamics" kept that information or parts. Looking at the SCCA event results and lap times in the link below, I would venture a guess that both Greg Masters and Bob Lentz were running engines of the electromotive recipe but I would venture that Greg took that configuration and developed it further as they were both from "Datsun dynamics" who always had a healthy engine program. http://www.wdcr-scca.org/ClubRacing/ResultsArchiveCR/NEDivSpringNationalSummitPointApril6702/FINALRESULTSFORRace8ASGT1GT2GT3/tabid/652/Default.aspx Bob Lentz ran the inline engine in his first 300zx but went to a newer car with the V6 and now uses rebello V6 that makes around 380hp with a 37mm intake restrictor.

If you look at the service manual for turbo z cars, most "change modes" at or around 3500rpms.

A really tiny hole. If you don't have one, the wastegate could hang open if you have no leaks.

You got too close to the douche index number that determines #1 douche with a few of your posts so he decided to put it out of reach.

Recirculating the blowoff valve from right in front of the throttle plate to the turbo inlet got rid of that "rich dip" in idle speed that happens when I closed the throttle. If you're venting to the atmosphere, your MAF doesn't know that air it just metered didn't go through the engine so you end up with a rich condition at drop throttle that stalls the car.

Some guy named Sanford Silverberg holds the SCCA ITS track record at milwaukee with a 280zx........at least he used to.

Anyone know if there a spec on the limit of how much you can trim off the stock valves?

Take care when "retorquing" old head bolts as you could end up snapping one off since you don't know the condition of them. I would start with a setting on the wrench of a little less than what the factory recommends just to see if you get any movement and carefully feel while you are tightening. If you find one that is starting to turn more than the others or just doesn't feel right, you might want to remove that one and replace it before it snaps off. Overheating an engine can cause the aluminum cylinder head to expand and actually squeeze a gasket thinner........then at normal operating temps. afterward, the head is not fully torqued.

Should be identical 60mm to the 240sx since they used the same engine except in tranverse mounting. It's easy to go to a pull and pay yard and compare them as I usually see both cars there whenever I go.

I second a good high flow cat as long as you have some sort of shroud between body and cat. For some reason the path through the monolith get's rid of all the raspiness and you get a mellow rumble at idle. If you want to muffle further, a simple straight through at the bumper will suffice and a dual chamber muffler will quiet it down to stock levels. After driving J-ported rotarys all through the 80s, I like my cars super quiet now.

I picked up a porsche 924 cheap to flip back in 1988 and it would overheat only when driving around at neighborhood speeds. I figured it out when I walked past the bumper in shorts and felt the warm air coming out the front. It seems the early 924s had fan motor connectors you could easily connect 180 degrees off.

I use infinti M30, Z32, and maxima (VE30DE) ecus on my L engines. You could also run the early 90s maxima vg30 ecus and harnessing because they are near identical to the M30 setup except that you don't get a nissan consult port with them. The M30 ecu is the easiest of the three because you only have to swap the optical disc in the existing L28ET distributor while it takes a bit more work to do it with the other 2 since the disc is a different size requiring more than simple snapping things together like lego. "easiest" doesn't mean "easy" since you will have to ensure you have the proper wires going to the proper places to satisfy the ecu, injectors, fuel pump......etc.