HowlerMonkey

Before taking the head apart, I would check if it is sipping oil from anywhere else that is easier to fix. I've seen cars drink fluid through the automatic transmission modulator (if you car has that) and also seen pcv systems that are inoperative cause enough crankcase pressure to prevent oil from leaving the turbo and instead seeping into the turbo.

I know this thread is old but I've run into some information relevant to the original post concerning "exotic sounding". I got a chance to listen to an original ford GT40 with 180 degree headers and am currently making headers for a few aston martins in which it seems could fit 180 degree headers that meet behind the shallow bellhousing which has immediately necks down to the diameter of the torque tube. There looks like enough room for primary pipes from 32 to 36 inches in length. 180 degree headers or engines with a flat plane crank sound exotic..........until you put an exhaust system that merges the exhaust of the two banks or links them with an "X pipe". Also.....your choice of muffling (if used) could very well ruin the awesome sound even if you don't merge the two banks.

I've seen guys put on the valve stem seals and put the valves through it only to remember that they forgot something and had the pull the valves back out through the seals.....which usually takes a small chunk out of the seal. They will leak after that. I did it the other day on a head I had stored just after rebuilding it and I had to re-lap the valves. When I pulled the valves through the seals, I noticed very tiny and thin "C" shaped parts of the seals in the groove for the keepers.

If everything checks out electrically, you can do some air flow meter stuff. If you have gotten the mixture correct for driving but have idle mixture issues, there are air bleeds in the air flow meter that you can adjust to bypass the flap. Screw them in for richer idle and unscrew for to lean. What you are doing is closing the bypass with the screw. There will be a 1/2 inch or so round aluminum plug you have to remove unless you already have a hole there. This is only for idle mixture. Still......a stock engine should run ok without fiddling with either the flapper spring tension or the idle air bypass.

You are experiencing vapor lock and it is unrelated to your previous issues. The fuel is boiling inside the injectors and the short distance from rail to injector after a hot soak. This is why nissan put a cooling fan on the 280zx turbo all the way up to the Z31 300zx ending in 1986.....which is when they went to dual feed injectors. The dual feed injectors circulate fuel through them so any boiling fuel is sent out the return line. Some people have no issues running without the fan and I have on a few cars but I did have to install a fan on 3 of my L engine turbo cars. 1984 nissan maxima L24e with turbo 1982 280zx turbo 1991 infiniti M30 with L28et. You can either live with it or install the fan though some who went with aftermarket rails might be getting around the issue.

I've replaced the rod and main bearings, lifters, water pump, oil pump, all tensioners and idler pulleys. I'm still sourcing a pair of used turbos that are rebuildable and having trouble finding rebuild kids for the 4 piston calipers he took apart. Engine is done with the rotating internals of the turbos replaced with a through bolt welded so it doesn't come loose (all housings were ruined by turbine contact) as I plan to throw the engine/tranny in to drive the car and see what else is wrong before investing a bunch more money when it might be cheaper to get an imported jdm AWD tranny. I just have to finish the transfer case, possibly replace the center viscous differential, swap some diodes and surface mount components from one ECU to another, rebuild the brakes, rebuild the turbos, etc........ You know....the simple stuff.

I am going through the "plastic baggie nightmare" right now. My half brother who is 20 years younger than me had a mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 in which he proceeded to take apart the engine and all peripherals as well as the transfer case down the the last bolt and put all the parts into plastic baggies with labels. That was 5 years ago and it sat in dad's garage for 5 years before I boxed up and shipped the entire mess to my place to put together. I spent hours organizing the baggies on a very large table and spent many hours trying to find things as I put together the engine. After spending more time searching than wrenching, I simply poured the contents of all the baggies on the table and it's been easy ever since.

You will have to get a nipple that screws into the block. Many of them are unbelievably hard to get out so a trip to the junkyard might not end well in that a huge struggle would net you one with buggered up threads. I'm sure someone has one for sale here.

I've run for years without the cooler. If your engine originally came with a cooler, the oil filter bypass will be in the adapter housing and it's normal location in the block will have a small freeze plug in it. I've run it both ways for years without any issues and the only issues you might run into would be having a clogged oil filter without the bypass working. If you keep your oil in good shape, there should be no issues.

27 inches.

The automatic transmission cars had an oil cooler and a larger oil pump.

The "pickups" send the same signalling to the ecu. The only difference you need to deal with in a 1981 vs 1982/83 system is that the 1981 system uses a dropping resistor while that dropping is done within the ecu on the 1982/83. As suggested above, try to set the indexing of the wiper arm back to stock. If you need to fiddle around, you can play around with spring tension (mark stock position) to get good running. If you have good running already but an idle issue, you might be able to smooth it by adjusting the screw for the air flow meter bypass port..................screwed in is richer and unscrewed is leaner. Try to start with a stock setting there as well. Now anything else wrong with the car can cause you to screw your adjustments up by compensating for the real issue which causes issues again once you discover and fix the failed part.....such as a stuck aux air regulator, vacuum control valve, cracked hoses on "modified F" shaped connector that mates a bunch of 1 inch diameter hoses together, or even a throttle body and tps that is adjusted improperly.

We used to reman them at "blue streak" and rebox them as "standard motor products" and other brands. I'm building a few custom fuel rails and complete engine management systems for the L28et that are coil on plug and might be for sale soon.

I don't think the pump makes any difference at all for but 1% of the L28 owners. I just want one for my LD28.

I've used search and looked at many topics and posts. I don't see the comparison. Since you obviously know, how about pointing me to the information?

I was referencing the "30" at the end of "10w-30 and related an experience of "5w-30" being too thin when warm. The "5w" and "10w" apply to the viscosity rating when cold or "w" for winter. The "30" applies to the viscosity rating at operating temperature. Since my reference was only to a low pressure issue at operating temperature, the "10w" and "5w" have zero difference in my reference and you should only look at the last number. Sure, you didn't have problems with an 30 weight oil at operating temperature but I was posting an issue that could possibly rear it's head in a high mileage L28. I fully know what nissan specified for the L28 as I have been a nissan dealership master technician since the early 90s and have been wrenching them at various independents since 1979. That said, I've been running 20w-50 oil in my L28s for about 300,000 miles and over 20 years..........but I have run into plenty of L series engines that will light the low oil pressure idiot light at idle when running on an oil with a "30" at the end and that simply switching to 20w-50 got rid of the light, moved the needle into a safe pressure, and allowed the engine to still be running 15 years later without a rebuild.

I'll be needing one soon enough for it's intended application. Has anybody even compared the performance of both in a real world situation? I'm not sure of the benefit.

Maybe he has fuel pooled in the intake manifold. I've seen a L28 run for 5 minutes with the fuel pump electrical connector unplugged at the dealership.

I can pick up LT1 and VH45 all day long for less than 200 bucks at the yards around here but a LSX will not be found anywhere near those prices.

You're welcome to put 5w-30 in a 150,000 mile Z car and I will bet it has near zero oil pressure at idle when warm. My point is that it was too thin for the application. Probably too thin for a high mileage L28 as well.

Careful with the thin oil like 10w-30. I recently fixed a volkswagen that someone had hydrolocked and filled the intercooler and intake piping with nearly 2 gallons of water. After running 3x oil changes that day of cheap castrol 20w-50 through it, the owner decided he wanted synthetic so he went and got some expensive 5w-30. The car was fine until you ran it hard enough to get some heat into the oil and immediately lit the low oil pressure light along with VVT hardware clacking. We let the car cool all day, restarted it and it was fine......until we got some heat into the oil again. I checked the owners manual and found that it specified 5w-40 oil and saw a footnote mentioning that 5w-30 was only to be used if you were adding 1qt or less to the recommended 5w-40 oil. We put the 5 quarts we had left of castrol 20w-50 and it's fine as it is already 83 degrees at 7:00 am and the car has over 100k miles. First time I had ever run into new oil that was too thin once warmed. I will not use any oil with a "30" at the end. I also went away from fram a long time ago and run purolator filters.

Push the arm near the slave back in toward the slave. If you get no movement and it seems tight, then something is not dimensionally correct. If you do get movement, then your clutch is not up to it. A clutch, when slipped hard on a launch, can fade just like brakes do at high temperature.

They had them on the audi Le Mans cars we ran aero testing on at Kennedy Space Center early in the year.

914 tech doesn't transfer well to cars with a different configuration. I drove a 914/6 with steel GT flares and 8 inch fuchs and went through many torsion bar/sway bar combinations. Getting rid of the rear one once spring rates went up helped.

Using a good penetrant and time will greatly help getting that broken bolt out. Heat almost always works but localized heat around the bolt hole on the deck may cause it to not be level in that area or even compromise the shape of the bore if it's near the bore.