HowlerMonkey

Original type is best because the factory ecu isn't compatible with a 0-5v type sensor.

You won't believe how many dealership technicians have never replaced a PCV valve. In the early 90s, my team leader had a few hundred in his "bolts drawer" of his tool box so I got most of them. 20 years later, I still haven't gone through all of them and I spent many years putting them into any car that had a running problem at the dealership to eliminate one possible issue and make my job easier. Just yesterday, I put one in my M30 because the old one was a year old. Tony is right.....PCV is important and a functioning pcv system will ensure your oil doesn't age prematurely and lose it's desirable properties.

If your cranking has sent oil to the filter, you are already on your way and just need to crack the oil line on top of the turbo and crank until you see oil there.......then pour a bit on the cam if it's dry. After that, I'm not sure how much cranking it takes until you see oil coming from the cam but, with everything oiled up, you shouldn't have any wear issues. If you add up the total volume of all oil passages, it would probably be more than a quart. There is a secret squirrel technique to backfeed the pump. I used some clear plastic tubing and used a plastic tube connector to fit it to a funnel. Then I removed the oil filter and stuffed the clear tubing into the oil gallery that feeds the filter (not the one in the center but the hole in front of it) by stuffing it in pointing toward the front of the car as much as possible. I removed the T fitting from the block and screwed the sensor in it's place to ensure no air was being drawn in. I got it in about 1/2 an inch by squeezing and prodding it after carving a taper into the end with a razor blade. Then you put a bit of oil in the funnel and crank the engine by hand backwards. CAREFUL!! some engines with very worn timing chain or tensioner might not like being turned backwards and could possibly skip the chain because turning it backwards will compress the tensioner inward. You should see the oil going down the clear tube if you leave a bit of an air bubble to use as an indicator of flow. If you crank half a quart or more and fill the filter, you should get pressure once you put it back together. After the priming, I took out the oil pressure sender, reinstalled filter, and watched while cranking with a remote starter switch until I saw oil coming out and quickly put the sender back into the T fitting and reinstalled the turbo oil supply tubing......and cracked loose the 17mm line on the turbo. Then I cranked it until I saw oil at the turbo but I actually had to do this twice since I did it once and got zero pressure.......because the fully primed pump was bad. If that happens then you have a bad pump or a pickup that is sucking air since you just guaranteed oil is in the pump by the above proceedure. I replaced the pump with another I had lying around and repeated the process and got pressure right away while cranking.

I'd wait for the pics of the pistons before assuming.

Just realized that someone had photoshopped the swept wings onto Czechmate..........a very good troll got me.

MU-2 is a sweet plane and has a deceptively low landing speed for the wingspan and it's great speed. It's also pretty cool that you don't need to wait for a pushback. One of the coolest civil planes ever.

I wonder if the battery tipped until the positive terminal touched the body and then righted itself after the cornering was finished. This can put a hurting on electrical components but usually results in burnt wiring from the alternator.

TonyD is correct. The stock manifolding is not bad at all and I would guess that there is one factory manifold which flows a little better than the rest. There are also "down pipes" that are different dimensions depending on the year and I also believe that one would flow better than the rest but I don't know which one.

The tripod axles always shake when in full droop because of the angles. Speaking of planes.......Czech Mate is back with some huge innovations for reno this year.

I guess it's possible that the turbo had been rebuilt at one time and the "cartridge" originally came from an american application.

If you're talking about a rear mount turbo heat shielding for the floor is definately one thing to ponder as is it's proximity to the fuel tank.

I was calibrating my joystick in preparation of delivering pepperidge in the Aces High II arenas and noticed that the raw data looks a lot like the data you find from purpose built data acquistion units. I'll guess you can get at least 2 channels of 0 to 5v from even the cheapest usb joystick and 4 from a twisty stick with throttle slider in addition to a bunch of on/off inputs.

Hmmmm......reminds me of this. From this thread. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=21772

FSM for L28et states 20 degrees + or - 3 degrees at 650rpm in drive. This is shown on page EF-28 in the factory service manual "turbo supplement". Since most L28et came with automatics, you will arrive at your best timing by starting there and experimenting for what works better with your manual transmission.

I mentioned the radio because many installers will simply snip the green/white wire that supplies radio illumination. These often short to ground. Your symptoms don't fully support this but, if you have exhausted everything else, might want to take a look.

The pre-obdII GM systems were advanced for thier time but were made with inferior construction and the conformal coatings sprayed on those ecu boards that leached under the chips is now swelling and pushing them right off the board. I can't even count how many GM ecus I've been sent at my rebuild facility that actually had chips rattling around the box because they got pushed clean off the board. The worst of the bunch is the "9278" ecus for the early LT1s. If you have one that is malfunctioning, then your ecu is in it's natural state. Many of the OBDII GM ecus are identical hardware between 6 or 8 cylinder engines and the tune decides which hardware is operational. Sure the LT1 ecus enjoy an almost identical signalling for crank/cam reference and the optical disc inside the duraspark "distributor" have a very similar waveform as the nissan V8 ecus, but the reliability of that ecu is very bad. Look familiar? If you're going to try GM or Jeep ecus, go with the OBDII ecus so you can easily tune them through the scan tool connector but remember that the later you go, the higher possibility that you will run into "immobilizer" or "security" issues. The jeep 4.0 ecus around year 2000 are amazing and can handle much any curveball you can throw at them but the voltage regulators inside them don't handle having Vref shorted to ground well and will cook the regulator. I probably replaced 600 of those regulators over the years..........and then had to support the customer who sends it back with the regulator burnt again because he can't grasp the cause and effect relationship of his damaged ecu. For an L28 with another brand ecu, the most difficult part is satisfying that ecu's need for crank reference.

Nice Rejracer Your quick and clear response will be added to the collective making future searches easier.

Should be M8x1.25

Sweet.....this is also a great way to see if you have too much air bypassing through worn throttle shafts on the SU carbs.

Hmmm......I'll bet there is a market for something like this. I do know that the toyota MR2 spyder was available with a "sequential manual" transmission that was identical to the corolla transmission and later the celica transmission. They had a supplemental unit that mounted on the transmission to do the shifting and an electrical clutch......and a complex shift management system. You are probably too capable for something like that. I think the best way to approach this is how the game controller manufacturers have analog clutch assigned to a paddle. I'll see what I can find because having a paddle on the left hand side of the wheel would not be intrusive and wouldn't take too long to learn. It can also be done mechanically and hydraulically by a lever that mounts to the column that I normally see used as a combination gas pedal/brake pedal. It might not be too hard to have this lever stick out a little below and behind the turn signal stalk, hinge at the column mount, and push a rod that goes to a slave cylinder mounted out of view. There is probably an existing product. Something has to be done to allow you the joy of tearing up the streets.

My go kart had a kawasaki KE 175 engine on it but no brakes or clutch when I got it so I mounted a lever on the shifter for the clutch. Worked great. I did add brakes later. The guy who owned it before me now owns palm beach harley davidson and races a top fuel harley so I guess whatever he had that caused him to drive that scary fast kart without brakes or clutch still exists within his brain. Having it on the car shifter might cause issues of you pulling it out of gear when actuating the clutch so getting it set up properly concerning shifter length and effort will make a huge difference.

I was wondering if anybody has used the narrowband output to feed the narrowband zirconia O2 input of an ecu, stock or otherwise and had it work well? I was also wondering if any manufacturer can do this for the titania sensors that nissan ecus feed a 1v reference instead of the industry standard 5v ref.

Check the impedence of your injectors just in case they were the cause of the injector driver failing.

Maybe we could add "factory and" to "other ems" to net "factory and other ems forums". As it is now, any discussion of factory ems ends up spread across the "car specific" and engine forums.

He has a 1981 280zx turbo engine, harness, cas, and a way to distribute spark. He already has what he needs to run the car and he's had it since before authoring this thread.