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HowlerMonkey

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Everything posted by HowlerMonkey

  1. Cylinder walls are washed down clean of oil by the fuel giving falsely low compression readings?
  2. What does adding 1 point of compression have to do with this at all? Your example is missing a lot of data points and it would be necessary to show the configuration of the engine used in your example to even get close to having enough information to prove your point. I relayed real life A vs B comparison with as many variables kept the same as possible. I didn't do one comparison at death valley at 40 degrees and the other at denver at 100 degrees but rather both at sea level at a density altitude of about 18 feet. Tony still has to deliver some sort of proof of all these 1100hp L28s used for endurance racing he mentioned above.
  3. I've done it......and I cut an identical relief on the rear valance.
  4. Going by the point you made above, 10 pounds of boost to the same engine will increase combustion efficiency decrease the amount of gases exhausted as in your example? If not, what makes it different? Some variables are not being considered. I'm just relaying real life observations through experience gained in the field and tony's stirring the pot.
  5. I've shortened the slave rod twice in my career and can't recommend it without a caveat. On one car, I drove it 40,000 after shortening the rod. On the other car, I drove it 2 weeks before the ball snapped off the transmission because it's 30 years of wear caused a pattern that did not like extra angle of the fork vs ball I had induced by shortening the rod instead of getting everything else correct. You might get away with it but you might not.
  6. I've compared my car with stock F54 and flattops (stock), pulled the engine, installed dished pistons, and went to the drag strip a week later with no other changes to the engine and found a substantial difference in spooling time between flattops and dished. When staging on the brake to build boost with an automatic at the drag strip, you will immediately notice the difference. Compression equals heat. Turbo technology has advanced to the point that getting a "wide torque curve" is possible with a newer design single. I just don't see needing compounding for a street car even though our shop makes daily drivers with 1500+hp.
  7. Most useful compound turbo setups as used on high performance gasoline engines are there because the horsepower level they desire requires a turbo so large that the engine has trouble spooling it. Some of these engines run such a low compression ratio that the engine cannot spool this large turbo when off boost.....regardless of rpm. Sure, the smaller turbo can greatly decrease lag but most are using the small turbo simply to give the engine enough boost as to greatly increase exhaust flow in the interest of spooling up the main turbo. The simple answer is that nobody has built a L28 that could handle the horsepower level......and it's possible that the L28 head will never flow enough to make it worthwhile vs a well researched single turbo.
  8. Movin the fork from there isn't easy even with a stock clutch. Can you wiggle the fork at all or is it solidly pushed against the housing? If your clutch slave is for a 280zx turbo, it is possible the push rod is longer for that application when used on a n/a transmission.....if it fits at all.
  9. Don't put the led anywhere near the windshield. I used to repo cars for falcon international in miami beach during the late 80s and I modified a stun gun (thunder woman) by attaching a spark plug lead to one electrode with an alligator clip on it the car and putting the stun gun electrode against the windshield as near as you can get to the led of the alarm while pulling the trigger. Eventually, you will get a spark to jump to the led and the alarm is done.........and possibly a bunch more of the car's systems. It worked and I didn't bake any ecus doing it.
  10. Strange how posts on topic of "high rpm shifting dynamics" have disappeared from this thread. If someone deletes my posts, please PM me and explain the reason.
  11. What I described above is a test and it pretty much disables anything the hoses are connected to on the intake manifold other than the "vacuum control valve" which is actually a small blow off valve. It's a good setup for testing but I've been running it that way for 40,000 miles. I would also clean the throttle body with a rag and some carb cleaner which can bring down your base idle to something that won't idle at all.
  12. When I suspect any of the usual suspects on the intake manifold, I simply remove the crazy T section (or is it F shaped) and replace it with two hoses. One goes from the valve on the intake manifold of cylinder 4 to the J pipe and the other goes from the regulator to the idle air control actuator. Most of the hoses are probably cracked anyway. Easy test. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6066/6116930413_17e6c40377_b.jpg
  13. Easy.....it's the one you can't get for your proper LD28 because a bunch of L28 guys bought them up to keep thier stroker crankshafts happy as they slowly rust away.
  14. I'm discussing input shaft mass and it's affect on synchros.
  15. Yes, and it's mass is substantially more than a 8 inch input shaft. This beats up the synchros.
  16. The cigarette lighter in a car is about 2 ohms resistance and can be used with a relay who's output is in series between the starter switch and the starter soleniod. Car only starts with the lighter pushed in. I've also used a baby monitor system simply put under the seat and on a relay that is normally closed.......but opens when the car is running so you aren't broadcasting you singing to Captain and Tennille while you drive. When you hear someone in your car, it's time to bust some heads.......or get shot by the perp. If you don't relish getting shot but want them to leave your car, get another baby monitor and put the receiver under the seat so you can simply turn on your transmitter and tell the perp inside your car that the pain train is comin'.
  17. Makes you wonder how manufacturers get away with the mass of a super long torque tube adding mass to the disc/input shaft combo that determines the amount of energy the synchros have to deal with.
  18. I figure I will eventually be able to buy a pump for my LD28 from one of you guys when it sits in a box for 2 years.
  19. The one you want has a rectangular bolt pattern but is sometimes found as a round flange but the bolt pattern is still rectangular as mentioned above. It has 8mm holes and is 61.58mm between the "long spaced holes" and 52.8mm on the shorter run if you simply put the points of some calipers in and spread them until they stop........or measure with a tape measure. The round flange can be found on 280zx non-turbo, and 200sx turbo R200 cars. The rectangular flange is found on earlier Z car R200s. The 280zx turbo uses a rectangular flange with but with 10mm holes and a different spacing. M30 uses a slightly longer flange than the Z31 to facilitate the abs tone wheel. This is M30 on the left and 1985 200sx turbo on the right. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8156/7609972220_3d84d536c8_b.jpg
  20. The wedge in the first post should be a little bit more "pointy" as I have seen the blunt wedges only hold the chain from moving instead of getting down far enough to address the tensioner itself. Of course, I have also used a 3 foot long piece of wood I sawzall'd the proper taper onto.
  21. Some Lincoln's were available with a BMW inline six turbodiesel in 1984 and 1985. Saw one at the junkyard down the street from Daytona speedway in 2004.
  22. Tickle the wires near the ecu connector.
  23. "Equal length" loses much much of it's advantage when you add "turbo" to the mix. Not everybody is sold in equal length when you have a turbo. 1100hp, 10 pole positions, and 3 wins in 1972. http://www.tsrfcars.com/images-72-029/72-029-2009-07-06-5.jpg Our standing mile record car doesn't have equal length exhaust headers.
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