HowlerMonkey

If you are considering a benz motor, why not the om606? I just got another M30 and I'm still deciding between VG30T, VH45T, or LD28 (with turbo)

I simply removed the boxes, covered the original speaker holes, sealed around the openings at the edges, and bolted rectangular plywood to the top where I mounted 6x9s. I did not cut the stock carpet but simply left it folded over to expose the speakers. When I was in some sketchy places in orlando, I simply flipped the carpet back over the speakers. Looked ok but you have to fight the resonant frequency of the enclosure which is an annoying mid bass frequency. Run off a 100 buck stereo without aux. amp, it was loud enough for me to plug my guitar processor into the faceplate and enjoy endless feedback......if that's what I wanted. Those same speakers sound amazing in a m30 with a proper trunk.

Thank you. The distinctiveness and data of your posts has enhanced the collective greatly. I'm guessing they are all zinc coated inside? I have a diesel project and some say the zinc inside the tank will react with the diesel fuel and cause issues.

There is a freeze plug in the back of the block. Hopefully it's just a heater hose.

You are relatively near to where one was last spotted in 1999. It was in a green 260z and given to the owner of the business establishment linked and mapped below. They are nissan racers but P99 probably didn't mean anything to them and might have gone on unnoticed. https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&ie=UTF-8&q=auto+expectations+virginia&fb=1&gl=us&hq=auto+expectations&hnear=0x884cd670bdbcb2cd:0xc04e4149b746a695,Virginia&cid=0,0,2991459704605199552&ei=KeGvUICVH5Gc9QS72IA4&ved=0CHUQ_BIwAA

It's a very smooth drive on the street but I am working with 5.9 liters which might change things vs 3.4L. It's possible that large displacement engines might not act the same as a smaller displacement concerning transition from one to two injector operation because it took a ton of tuning to smooth it out on our car. We control wheelspin using an AMS1000 controller and a custom "boost by gear" system because it seems to work better than ecu based traction control. I guess it's also possible that big stuff is behind Motec in technology.

Actually.....it's 3500rpm where the stock zxt fuel system goes into open loop. With 108 ft. pounds of torque, the dowel does nothing but properly index the gear as you install it. The cracking is from the sprocket beating back and forth on the dowel because the bolt isn't tight enough. I would simply get a used p79 head, bolt it on, and now you have a running car while you can sort out the p90 and cam options. I'm about to put a p79 back on in place of a P90 and notice no difference in the performance between the two.

People throw that stuff away so you should be able to find it cheap if you take that route.

That is exactly what is happening. I installed the factory cooling fan system from a 280zx turbo and it immediately went away......but it's ugly!! I got the timer from a Z31 300zx 84 to 86..........it was inside the B pillar near the driver's hip. Through the course of installation, I found the wiring diagram was incorrect so I corrected it such that it now works.

The L28et is more than two seconds faster in the quarter mile and the VG30 is difficult to turbo in this car without substantially more work than swapping in the L28ET. It might even fool a state emissions inspector if it blows good numbers.

I remember my RX-2 with a heavy flywheel that ran too low a gear (high numerically) and the mass of the flywheel acted similar to traction control because the engine could not accelerate the mass of the flywheel fast enough to cause it to break traction through first gear. It was pure chance (or being too cheap for a light flywheel) that allowed the car with tiny 205/60-13 yokohama A001R to run 11.5 in the quarter mile. I changed some things with a much more powerful engine and a more highway friendly gearing and it took smoking the clutch to even get near it's previous best time. There is a sweet spot concerning flywheel weight and gearing where this can be harnessed but it might not apply to most Z car configurations.

I usually swap L28s into VG30 equipped cars.

How big is a stock bore L28 with the ld28 crank?

Some of the 80s and early 90s volvos have monster horns that can wake the dead.

There used to be a place called "ernies alloys" and he had a warehouse full of BBS wheels of all types. We pieced together some crazy combinations for the rear of porsche 930s and 935s like 15x11 (345/35-15) and 16x13. Ernie died in april of this year so I am not sure what happened to his business. Here is the contact information for the business.......also remember that most of his business was porsche so I'm sure the pricing is porschetastic. 13640 NW 19th Ave Unit 9 Opa Locka, FL 33054 (305) 687-0028

Everything I mentioned is for extreme top end speed and I'm not sure the optimum settings for those speeds would be good for all around driving. I'm sure there are some here who have lived with a good trackday car they also drive on the street and could give better advise for that kind of usage.

Infiniti M30 stub axles are 2mm thicker at the splines (around 29.5mm) than the Z31 stub axles (27.5mm) and around 23.8mm thick at the threaded portion (z31 are 22mm) though it looks like they are the same thickness (30mm) where they pass through the bearing. All measurements were taken with a digital caliper simply put over the splines and threads. Sadly, they are 4 lug and use a much larger diameter companion flange which is the only one that fits that stub axle because of it's larger diameter and spline pitch. You would have to use the halfshafts, companion flange, and stub axles from the m30 all together. It might work fine for a 280zx or any other earlier Z that can accept the stub axle/flange/halfshafts conversion from a z31 but you are stuck with 4 lug wheels and having the same axle length issues when putting them into S30. I can't guarantee they are stronger even though they are thicker.

Remember that the 240z through 280z have the rack in front of the crossmember which would have the opposite effect by inducing more toe in as the front comes up. An extreme amount of toe in can induce similar wandering/instability as does toe out but in a less drastic fashion. Also, you might find that non-stock ride heights could cause tie rod angles that would yield toe change in the opposite direction as a car at stock ride height. We use a data acquisition unit that uses linear potentiometers to measure the ride height at all 4 shocks and then put it on the alignment rack. Before we perform the alignment, we load or lift each end of the car to duplicate the data we had during the run on the linear potentiomenters and then set the alignment such that it is optimal at our target speed. We actually had to deviate from those settings to find a solution that worked for all accelerating/braking states because you can easily set your car to feel great while acccelerating and then end up not being able to control it once you let off. If you don't have datalogging, you could take a picture or video of your car from the side at speed during acceleration and another as it brakes from speed and use weight or lifting to duplicate the fender to wheel gaps you see in the picture. If you observe compression/squat or lift/downforce change the car's stance enough that the alignment has to be put to settings that favor one condition at the expense of another, you might want to go with high spring rates and eliminate the movement you are compensating for.

I want to stay on topic here so I will delete references to our other cars.

It is actually possible to walk out of the junkyard 40 minutes after you arrive at a Z31 with both axle shafts, the companion flanges, and the stub axles undamaged but the Z31 requires a bit more than the S30 or S130. I usually pry out the spring while the shock is still attached because I have come across damaged tripods where someone undid the shock bolt which caused the springs to push the control arms down enough to put a lot of pressure on the tripods which are now limiting the downward movement once the shock bolt is removed. Two pry bars will pry out the springs of a Z31 non-turbo with very little danger involved though I don't recommend doing this with the turbos or shiro edition with stock springs because they are storing a bit more potential energy. From there it takes very little time to undo the e.brake cables, calipers, brake lines, sway bar link nuts, both control arm bolts, and pry the axle shafts from the diff. This leaves you with the control arm with the axle still bolted up. It's much easier to unbolt the six bolts that hold the axle shaft to the companion flange when you have it plugged into the "junkyard jackstands"............much easier than laying under the car trying to get around the bracket that shrouds them. Just make sure to not pull the tripods out while you move about the assembly. Once the axles are removed and you have the nut off the stub axle, simply use a puller to pull the companion flange off, take the assembly off of the "junkyard jackstand", screw the stub axle nut back on a few threds, and use an extension on your socket to hammer it out. It usually comes out easly without even marking up the nut. If you're doing this on another car, it might not be the easiest way and some nuts are staked but it works well on the Z31.

I know this isn't a Z car but it does have a L28et in it and I did some high speed testing in it. I was aero testing at Kennedy Space Center these last two weeks and managed to get my M30 onto the runway and run it right up to the rev limiter of the M30 ecu. The car has a stock L28E with P90 and stock turbo injectors running on the M30 ecu with a supra intercooler at 7 psi boost and a 280zx turbo 3 speed automatic behind it and a 3.54 gear with brand new 215/60-15 tires and I'm pretty sure it was going around 130+ when I ran it. Here's a timeslip to help computing the power level knowing the mods above. The runway is 3 miles long so I pussyfooted it most of the way and still bounced it off the rev limiter before a mile had come up. It will definately go faster with more gear. A week earlier, I had run it up to 120 on the highway and experienced the "floaty" feeling and simply cranked in a bit of toe in which completely settled it down as it was rock solid after that. It was probably more toe in than needed but I only got one run. The M30 toes out when the nose is lifted at speed because the rack is behind the crossmember. While it has a pretty sweet CD and relatively small frontal area, it's stock ride height and front aero is not optimal for high speed driving. Any toe out will make the ride spooky and it is amplified greatly if you have anything loose such as ball joints or inner/outer tie rod ends. Your stance at speed and the toe changes that accompany the stance change are very important. I've got slightly loose inner tie rod ends and the toe in made it completely stable but I returned it to a less severe toe in for my daily driving for the sake of tire wear. All of our runs were quickly put into perspective when a F104 took off, went into a vertical climb near our viewing station at midfield, and performed a few low passes at mach .96.

Necropost, I know .........but this might help someone trying to get the stub axle nuts loose at a upull junkyard. It sucks to work hard and come home empty handed because you couldn't get the nut off or damaged something in the epic struggle to remove the nut. You know those rims they weld together to make a "junkyard jackstand"? They are the perfect "vise" to hold anything you can bolt to them. What I do is remove the entire control arm and simply plug the stub axle into one of those "junkyard jackstands" and run a couple of lugnuts from the other side of the wheel to hold it. Now you have a stub axle that will stay put while you jump up and down on your breaker bar. It helps to find one that is turned a little and is under a heavy car. Shop around with the brake rotor for the proper bolt circle before lugging the heavy assembly around.

Tracked the car at Palm Beach International Raceway during "midnight madness" october 12, 2012. L28E (flattops) p90 head, 3n71b automatic, mkIII supra intercooler, 7 pounds boost, stock ecu (untuned), stock L28et injectors, 3.54 R200, 215/60-15. I think some tuning with nistune could get into the 14s because the aggressive M30 ecu timing requires base timing to be backed off.

I remember that none of the many ecus I had on the shelf at the blue streak warehouse for a 280zx had a pin 4 and that checking a customer's car showed that the ecu had nothing to do with cold start functionality. It was controlled by the thermo time switch on the thermostat housing. The main differences in the various non-turbo S130 ecus was the fuel pump scheme. Some had 1 relay, some 2, and some had 3 relays.

Again.......I have.....with many parts in my capacity as general manager of thier direct competitor. If I had found anything "sub par" I surely would not hold back. Most of the parts used for rebuild come from the original vendor who supplied the OEM manufacturer. If it's not possible to source the same part because they are not available, they go with who has them. This usually means you either can get the part from one supplier or not at all. Just saying they suck is one thing but offering up some pics for comparison would go a long way.