cockerstar

More found on google: http://asiangiant.wordpress.com/category/cars/datsun/ http://jtodaro.com/i/Home.html

Found these on a google search. Looks like they're in VQ240Z's albom on here. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/image/3443-4/

I didn't build the engine myself, but I'll ask him what the bearing clearances measured at. We haven't run it long enough to hit temp yet. We are also getting an intermittent rattling/knocking noise that persists for just a few seconds. The noise will stop on its own or if given revs or if shut down and restarted. Oil plump is a melling m55 high volume. I'll check on the gauge and see if I can snag one off of my camaro.

Hey guys, Today I tried to help my buddy break in the 327 he built for his 65 Chevy pickup. At a high (800-1000rpms) cold idle we're seeing 75psi on a mechanical gauge. At around 2000rpms we're seeing around 90psi and it is leaking oil from the rear main and the intake manifold gasket at the front of the valley. We haven't taken it much higher than this. I've read that 20psi at a hot idle is healthy with a general rule of thumb being an additional 10psi of pressure for every 1k rpms, for a max of 80psi at 7000 rpms. He has a high volume oil pump (still checking on brand) and is running 10W30 conventional oil with a comp cams break in additive. The dipstick shows an appropriate oil level. This all seems quite excessive to me, and we're getting a lot of smoke out of the valve cover breathers (blowby). Any ideas on what could be causing this, and if we're looking at doing any damage by leaving it? A failed pressure bypass valve would yield higher pressures, right? Thanks, Ryan

Daddydonuts' post has more to do with pointing out that the "wear in" on Nissan rockers is minimal and not like having to match lifters to a used SBC cam.

Not on my computer it doesn't. They just stay giant. For what it's worth, I don't recognize it.

PM sent

I'd take as much as you need to be able to mount an entire suspension. It might even be a good idea to try and take the wheel wells too, so you can get a full mock up on any new rear end you might want to mount. It's easy to cut off anything that ends up being excess once it's all out, but it's harder to add metal back on! Weld in some cross braces before you start cutting and I would think you'd be able to keep it straight. I see: - one as a strut tower brace - one between the outer edges of the wheel arches - one across the frame rails

Shot you a PM with my phone number. I should have one locally

Pricing varies with options and current pricing on the Illumina shocks. I sent you a PM with some details

For what it's worth, my shop (s30 Solutions) offers a very similar kit at a lower cost, if bolt-in coilovers is something you're interested in. I've done several conversion kits for members on here without any complaints at all.

Looking forward to seeing the final product! What are you planning for tires?

PM sent

Your speedomater should be reading about 18% fast now, assuming you have stock height tires. You can get the correct plastic cog to go in your transmission to make it read appropriately. It is officially known as a "speedometer pinion gear" in Nissan speak. I believe you'd be looking for the white one (19 teeth). This thread has some good info in it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread6997.html The Zhome page also has some good info: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm For those finding this thread while searching, here's which gears you will need for various rear ends to make your speedometer read correctly: 3.336 : Yellow (16 tooth) 3.545 : Black (17 tooth) 3.7 : Blue (18 tooth?) 3.9 : White (19 tooth) 4.11 : Red (20 tooth?) This eBay listing shows a yellow gear in the picture, but the description lists it as a 19 tooth gear. I would be sure to confirm with the seller that it is in fact a 19 tooth gear. It is listed for about $50+shipping. Search tags: speedometer plastic cog speedo drive cable swapping ratios spedo reading off

If you find out that a 4 speed shift fork will work out for you, I have one. PM sent

Thanks for the tip Dexter! I took the hub down to my local parts store and it looks very similar to the front hub from an 88 corvette, so the manager ordered a pair in for comparison. They have an ABS ring on the back, and my hubs are smooth. It's the closest visual we could come up with after about an hour of searching though, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed! I'll post an update when they come in on Tuesday.

That would be fine and dandy if I didn't already have Baer big brakes and just came across a spare $3k laying around

I know this is completely unrelated to Z cars, but I figure it's worth posting up here since a lot of us are knowledgeable about other vehicles as well. I've tried registering on some camaro specific boards to ask this same question, but am having trouble getting the registration to go through. For you camaro guys out there, are there any forums that are great? Anyway, I need to replace the front hub assembly on my father's 69 camaro, but the PO replaced the stock spindle with something aftermarket that accepts C5 Corvette brakes, and provides about 2 inches of drop. There are absolutely no markings that I could find to help with identification! It takes a sealed hub unit with 4 bolts, and from my research the only other spindle unit I can find that uses a sealed hub is the AFX spindle. However, it uses the C5 hubs with a 3 bolt pattern. Anyway, any help in identifying this pice would be greatly appreciated! Here's a pic of the spindle:

If the mounts aren't welded, then it isn't one that I produced. Starting with some LocTite is a good direction to go, regardless of who made it. Hopefully you get it all sorted out (both issues)! Keep us posted

Does the rail have welded mounts on it? 1/2 NPT sounds like one of the rails I have made, as I haven't heard of any others with a large bore like them. When I tapped the threads on them I used the 1/2 NPT to -6AN fittings I was shipping a lot of the rails with as a gauge for thread depth. Some of the cheaper fittings I picked up at home depot would seat pretty far in, but all of the rails still held 80PSIG of air pressure for several minutes. I haven't had any reports of a leaky rail make it back to me, but I'd be happy to provide whatever help I can with the rail. Starting with clean threads is an absolute must, and Tony's advice on using the proper sealant is spot on. I did ship all of the rails that came with the AN fittings with the yellow teflon tape you've been using. LocTite PST is a better solution, and that's where I would start after inspecting for thread galling. Making sure that the rail isn't cracked would also be good, but I doubt that "30-40 ft/lbs" would cause that kind of damage.

I saw the pic of you with your fiero and thought, "Wow! Those really look like the ABC homes in Richland..." Then I looked at your location Welcome to the boards from someone else in the tri-cities! I don't know much about the 3800, but I do know about Z's and welding/fabrication/powder coating, so let me know if I can be of any help. Looking forward to seeing the progress!

Looking forward to seeing pics of them mounted up! Are these 4 lug wheels, or did you do a 5 lug conversion?

You can always mount them to the strut isolator bolts that come up at the shock towers too.

If youre looking to cap the originals, the rails by bad dog cant be beaten for the price! Their rails tie in the front and the rear, which is really supposed to stiffen things up. My stock rails are perfect and this is the route im going. Im sure you could easily sell the rails you have now to finance the new ones.

For 280Z tubes I remove an appropriate amount to get the BZ3099 strut to fit in the tube with no spacer (same length as a 240z front tube) and then remove an identical amount from the rear tube and make a spacer to take up the space under the rear strut. I've used this method for all of my customers with 280Z tubes and never had an issue. John's advice at 1" is solid, especially if you have gone with camber plates. If it doesn't put you where you want to be in your travel when you dial in the ride-height you can always take some more out of the tube and shorten the spacer. It isn't the funnest exercise in the world (especially if you're paying to have it done!), but it will eventually get you where you want to be. Then again, dropping an inch from stock ride height doesn't really necessitate sectioning at all...