cockerstar

+1

What's your overall tire diameter?

I've sold ones that need grinding for $400 and ones that just need polishing for $5-600.

Get a honda civic. I just filled up my girlfiend's 2003 (1.7L/5-speed) and got 38mpg with 60/40 highway city driving. It's gutless, but that's not the point. Getting 400 miles for under $40 is the point and the car was a whopping $4200!

The answer to your first question is no. You do need to remove anything that might be in your way, but I can't think of anything. Cut out the bad part of your frame rail, strip the entire area of the frame rail to bare metal, strip 6 inches of material out from the frame rail to bare metal, coat bare metal in weld-through primer, coat inside and outside of thr bad dog rail in weld-through primer, jack the car up and put it on jack stands, use a floor jack to position the bad dog rail over the stock one and tack weld it in place, double check fitment, and finish weld in 2-4" sections skipping around the perimeter of the rail. Not as nice as putting the car on a rotisserie and stripping it to bare metal, but it'll work.

It'll be interesting to see how the cam plays with the stock EFI. From what I've read, it typically isn't well, but I haven't had any personal experience with it. Sounds like an excuse to go megasquirt to me

What exactly are you asking? Your post is hard to understand. I'm understanding that the shop wants to remove the engine/transmission to weld in bad-dog frame rails. That isn't necessary. Removing the interior, the under coating, and the rust prior to welding the new rails on.

That looks like a terrible place to mount a surge tank!

I'm still drooling over your paint here troubledz! If you don't ind me asking, what does a job like that run? It's very similar to what I'm looking to do in the future for my '71.

Did you read the B/S/T rules before you posted it? If the post broke any of the rules it gets deleted without warning or notice.

Very glad to see a system like this being implemented! Thanks a bunch for making the site that much better, Dan!

Which flares/seller did you go with? I'm wanting to flare my autoX car, but am looking for the cheapest decent ones I can get since I really don't care much about perfect fitment.

Easy = good Put them under the coil covers and be done with it!

I've always liked using beverage clamps (used on CO2 systems for fountain soda), as they look a little cleaner. I'm sure there's another name for them, but that's how I discovered them. The only down side is that they aren't easy to remove and a pain to install without the right tool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-15-7mm-BEVERAGE-CLAMPS-STAINLESS-HOSE-CLAMP-/330602935606 ABA clamps made by Norma are also a little cleaner than traditional clamps. They have a beveled edge so they don't cut into the hose, and the serrations don't go all the way through the band. They're still the same basic look though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SILICONE-HOSE-CLAMP-8-16MM-NORMA-TORRO-GEMI-TYPE-10PK-/150502895380

Better yet, use a hot-wrench to poke a hole through the arm (good luck drilling it while it's in the car) and use one of the early adjustable rods!

I don't mind ponying up the money to spend on some real tools, but there is something to be said for $50 disposable ones, especially with the frequency that I'll be using them. The HF one is also 4.3A, which is definitely plenty of grunt. That 3A DeWalt one looks like it would fit the bill perfectly, and it's only about $130. The Makita one is also a bit cheaper and offers a bit more power. I own power tools from both brand and haven't had a problems in the least. Thanks for all of the input guys! Now I just need to make a decision. I've gotten so used to my pneumatic tools! I'm really missing all of my media blasting and powder coating stuff already I just have to keep telling myself that I only have to deal with this stuff for a year...

Looks very interesting, and for $40 it's reasonable! I don't know if I'll be able to get the control out of it that I'm looking for, but maybe I can find a smaller angle grinder that will better suit the job. The closest thing that I've been able to find are the flexible shaft grinders with the bigger motors. I think that if I had both of them I could do just about everything I do with my three die grinders (straight, long straight, and 90* head) without the need for a 220v compressor.

I know I'm probably just dreaming here, but maybe you guys know of something that I don't! I just moved to a new place, leaving the shop I did all of my fab-work in about 4 hours away. Getting a compressor with enough power to meet the CFM requirements of a decent die grinder is completely out of the question That being said, I'm looking for something that I can plug in and still get adequate performance out of. A dremel just isn't going to cut it! I'm looking for something that has a 1/4" collet and at least a quarter hp, if not more. I believe my IR die grinder was rated at 1/3hp@20kRPM and would still seriously bog on heavy stuff. Does anyone know if something like this exists in an electric version? I'm not having much luck finding anything.

Damn Marcus, those are some nice looking pieces if I do say so myself Shot you a PM casper!

The "hardbody" is a truck powered by a KA24DE, yes?

I've had one ongoing project going on 6 years now as I try to do everything "right". At this pace it'll end up being a show car when I'm done rather than a fantastic DD as planned. I've found a lot of solace in having a track car. Just do whatever you need to to make it run and run as fast as you can. Things like sheetmetal screws, zip ties, and the MIG welder have become completely appropriate and it makes me rest easier! Have one that you can at lease hack on a little bit and not have to stress over every little detail. I've made more progress on that car in 6 months than I have on the other in 6 years, from a functionality standpoint.

Try posting it in the off topic or want to buy section. Member's projects might not be the best subforum to get the traffic you're looking for.

Try searching for wheel stud replacement rather than wheel bolt.

Tim has the answer to getting the flywheel held in place for torquing it. I typically lower the engine down onto an old tire or two centering the oil pan in the hole. It still has some weight supported by the lift, but this keeps it from swinging around without getting scraped up.

For a street driven Z you can't go wrong with the ground control kit (with 200-250 lb/in springs) and Tokico Illuminas in sectioned strut housings.