cockerstar

Returning the fuel right to the intake will heat up the fuel after it loops through the system a few times over. I could also see it causing problems with the fuel levels being really low. In reality, most cells are designed with a return and an vent at the top. I know I won't have issues with the cell if using it as-designed. Hell, you might not have issues running them both at the sump. I don't have any real-world experience with running both the in/out at the sump like that. It would still be nice to confirm the fuel pressure. Confirm fuel, confirm spark and you're running!

Not sure if the pistons will allow it, but have you considered having them milled to drop compression down to a reasonable level?

They weren't working for me, but some are working just fine now. Maybe it is fixed??! I am having problems formatting a link in a PM right now. edit: it isn't working here either. We're still operating with BB Code, right? Replace "()" with "[]": (url=http://www.thesportingstore.com/SanMar_EPDD/PRODUCT_IMAGE/C865.jpg)link(/url) [url=http://www.thesportingstore.com/SanMar_EPDD/PRODUCT_IMAGE/C865.jpg]link[/url]

This is the same on my end!

I'm getting impatient for final install pics!

I wouldn't return to the other sump port, but to another on the tank away from the sump. Where is your fuel pressure regulator located? What's your fuel pressure at the injectors with the key in the "on" position? How about while cranking?

Hey guys! ORDER THREAD IS LIVE http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109989-hybridz-apparel-and-decals-order-here/ If you posted here I'm sending you a PM!

There's some confusion on what the wheels are made out of, and honestly I'm not quite sure. I lightly sanded the "wood" and metal spokes. Hit the spokes with satin spray paint and and stained the "wood". It took the color, but not as well as I hoped it would have. I then followed up with a glossy brush on lacquer and it came out looking great! Not sure how well it held up though. It was too pretty so I sold it on eBay about a week later

Personally, I would LOVE to see this swap happen! I think it would make for a peppy little DD that was easy to drive and easy on my wallet. I wouldn't want it as my only Z, but it would make for a fun DD.

I went in to get the finalized proofs at the shop today, and they are running behind with a large commercial order. I'm trying to be patient with them since I've worked with them in the past and have always been happy with their work. I'm picking up some samples of the decals tomorrow and the art for the shirts is supposed to be done by then too. I would really like to get the ball rolling on this ASAP! Will update here as I get more info.

Keep them coming guys! I went in to the screen printers today to finalize everything on the apparel and decals and their decal guy was out! Made an appointment for tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be taking orders within 24 hours I'll post a new thread with ordering instructions and pricing at that time.

Holy thanks Tom! I've been looking for this thread casually for a few weeks now and haven't been able to find it. Keywords: front and rear suspension bolt chart thread sizes

I've finally heard back from the local screen printer and I just need to wrap up a few more details before I can start taking orders. If anyone has a higher resolution version of the old HybridZ logo I'll happily ship you a free tshirt if you email it to me! This is the main thing that's holding me up at this point.

I'd be more concerned about the diff itself being able to handle the 600+ ft/lbs of torque you're planning to run through it. The 2011 STi has a 41f/59r torque bias, so start looking at what people are running. You're going to have to find someone running around 1000tq for a fair comparison.

I'll look into clings, but I don't see them being any cheaper than having vinyl decals cut on a plotter. They should be able to cut them so that they can be applied on the inside or the outside of the window. Is there any other reason for wanting the clings other than having it on the inside of the window? Opinions here guys? Any other opinions on the size? I kind of like how big they are, but if people want them smaller then they'll be smaller! I'll definitely be looking into having multiple sizes made and how that effects the pricing. Hang tight Mike This definitely IS happening. I'll post details as I get them sorted out. I'm planning to run by a local screen printer sometime today or tomorrow. I'll check out cafepress! I had initially planned on having them done locally or going through customink.com. I've used both previously with success

This is great guys! Keep them coming. I'm quietly counting and responding to any questions/suggestions I see The last run I took part in was also Justin's. My shirt is holding up okay, but the fabric is definitely a little faded. On the other hand, the printing is holding up great! Do you have any pictures of what you're referencing on the transparent decal? Like a static cling shown below? As for graphics, I'm open to anything! Let's hear what you guys have going on in your mind. Jump on any of the shirt design websites and make something up to share here with a screenshot and your own hosting. I went ahead and added a rough idea to the first post. As always, I'm happy to ship overseas via USPS quoted on an individual basis!

You should be fine to run your KYB front struts in the sectioned rear housings. Remove the same amount from the rears that you take from the fronts and use a spacer under the rear strut to get proper gland nut engagement. Be sure you aren't running too much spring for those KYB struts. The tokico blues should be able to easily take what the 280z lowering springs are rated at (185lbs/in up front and 200 lbs/in in the rear). I'm not sure what the KYBs can handle with reliability.

Hey guys, It's been a good 2+ years since we've had someone come up and make us some HybridZ swag, and I know my hoodie and tshirt from the last run have definitely seen some mileage! I just got the approval from Dan to use the HybridZ logos to make up some apparel and decals to sell. I'm making this thread to gauge interest out there so I can have a general idea of what volume I'm looking at when I approach different places about having the screen printing done. The prices I list below are estimates based upon my best guesses. One thing that always gets me about custom t-shirts is that 90% of the time they're printed on cheap haynes tagless shirts to keep the costs down. Personally, I much prefer a lightweight quality shirt like American Apparel, so that's what I'm planning on going for with these. I'm also planning on using the old logo with the s30 outline from the old site if I can get ahold of the image in a high enough resolution. If you have this image, please post it here or PM/email it to me! Here's a rough idea of what we're looking at: As for now I'm planning on the following: - Short sleeve T's ($22-27) - Long sleeve T's ($30-35) - Pull over hoodies ($35-40) - Flexfit Hats ($35-40) - "HybridZ.org" decals ($4-7) - "Engineered to be feared" with the image above decals for the quarter windows ($10-12) Let me know what you guys would be in for. This is by no means a commitment of any kind or a guarantee on what I'll be able to offer. As always, I'm game to hear your guys' feedback and ideas!

No problems to report with google chrome or firefox. I do get it in internet explorer though. Chrome is so much faster than IE and its add-ons are great! Time to make the switch

Kaito, the spacer is to used to make the stock linkage line up.

Looks great man! How are you keeping the iPad fixed in place? I've been driving around a C5 corvette with the HUD, and I really like having the speedo displayed right on the windshield so I don't have to glance down while romping around on it in town a bit.

What axles? You're going to need to give a detailed description of your rear suspension setup.

A good driveshaft shop will be able to service the ujoints in the drive (propeller) shaft. You can change them yourself with a press and the right replacement joints.

You need to be using the BZ30b[]12[/b] strut in the rear, not the BZ3013. I remember reading that the 3012 is just a 3013 with a spacer welded to the bottom of that, so you may be able to conceivably remove it and run it. A BZ3013 strut will not fit in a shortened hosing.

Just like the title says, I'm looking for a shifter from a late (non-first series) 4 speed or 5 speed transmission. If it includes the bushings and retaining pin with c-clip, that would be great. No shift knob needed. This is going in a budget racer, so I'm not looking to pay a ton for it. Trades would even be better, since they don't count against my $$$$ limit.