cockerstar

MSA has a posting for head bolts, but the kit is $90.

The 240/280 fronts are the same height. The 240z rear is shorter than the 280z rear isolator. 280z guys can swap in 240z ones for a little drop in the rear.

I can do a powder coated one like this one or in pretty much any other color you'd like for the same price. As another option I have a cover that's media blasted and ready for powder/paint I can sell uncoated at a reduced cost. Shoot me a PM if you're interested either way

I know after a certain number of days posts can't be edited anymore. If I remember correctly this is in effect because some members left HybridZ in the past, but not before deleting all of their posts which had a significant impact on some technical discussions. All of the mods (especially Joel) are great about making edits for you if you PM them about it. Be sure to include a link to your post and the text as you want it to appear in its entirety. That way they just have to copy/paste it in rather than actually read and edit. Not exactly sure why the rule applies in the B/S/T section, but I like that it does since it inherently creates an archive of past asking/selling prices on parts! It would be nice to be able to edit the first post in the thread to update when things are sold though. It's a bit of give and take I guess...

You can always mount your plate on the dash/in the windshield. At least you can in Washington! According to local LEO's, sitting on the dash in my camaro counts! As far as I know, all of the double stacked grilles are custom pieces. I know one member found a billet ford grille at a yardsale that was a pretty close fit, but not perfect.

For those who don't know what the 7MGE valve covers look like I attached a pic below. I'm with John on this one. Form a piece of aluminum sheet to match an weld it on. Grind and sand the welds, weld up the low spots, and sand again for a seamless appearance. That's the process I use when shaving the bosses off of L-series intakes and valve covers and it works just fine. You shouldn't have to do any cutting on your current covers. Personally, I wouldn't want to use fiberglass or filler to build up that much material.

This is an excellent suggestion. Read the boards, look through previous builds, learn your options, learn from other's mistakes, etc.

I remember watching this video a few years back, and it's always worth 10 mins out of my day! Something about the style (especially the intro) puts a smile on my face

You need to use BB code on the forums, not HTML.

The engine mount arms can be powder coated without issues. The isolators with the rubber cannot. The part must reach a minimum temp of 375*F for a minimum of 12-15 mins depending on powder chemistry to achieve a full cure. There are chemical means of curing powder that are less durable which would probably work just fine though. "Powder water" offered by columbia coatings out of TN is one option. I've also used MEK to cure it in the past as well with success.

I use cerakote on all of the headers I do and have had great results.

Any lenses that I would make for sale would not be DOT approved, and for "offroad use only". Pricing would still be high, but less than the $800 mark I'm assuming with a few committed buyers. I'm guessing that 'tooling up' using this method would run somewhere in the $750-1000 range. Heck, I would have to pull some tails apart to see if the method I'm considering would even be viable, which would require the user to cut their OEM lenses and do a little bonding, or send them in to have them converted over to a JDM/Euro reproduction. Honestly, I bet Clearz can produce a higher quality lens for less than what I could charge. They were doing clear turn signals at one point, right? Maybe a place like ZCCJDM or MSA would be interested in contracting Clearz for the lenses since they could make the initial purchase in bulk, making it worth both company's time.

Or make molds and cast them. It doesn't look too difficult. I might consider adding it to my product line if the interest is there. http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos.cfm http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos/TailLightMoldingEquipment.cfm http://www.alumilite.com/HowTos/TailLightCastingEquipment.cfm

I don't have any l-24 rods for sale right now. The rods in Zmanco's engine should be 9mm rods. If he posts the serial number on the engine we can know for sure.

ARP makes hardware for both 8mm and 9mm L-series rods. A set of 8mm rods running ARP fasteners will be stronger than a set of 9mm rods running stock rod bolts (especially reused stock ones!).

8mm rod bolts or 9mm rod bolts? Or does it matter? edit: I just saw that you posted a wanted ad for a VO7 crank, so I'm guessing you'd prefer the 9mm ones.

I haven't seen this one before, and don't particularly see the point, but it's unique! http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/3233974474.html

John is correct. You've got them installed backwards!

Wheel fitment has been covered many times over. Measure your car to find out what backspacing you require and go from there. 4.5 inches of backspacing seems to be a good number with coilovers. Some like to go with more and use a small spacer to get the fitment right where they want it. There are charts to roughly convert between backspacing and offset. Backspace is the number that matters. Also, make sure the center bore is large enough to accommodate your front hubs. You'll likely not be able to use whatever center cap the wheels come with up front. Search and you will find your answers

Start off by putting some penetrating oil in the bores to try and loosen up those rings. It can take awhile to get them free, so make sure they're saturated for at least a few days. Use a hardwood or brass drift on the bottom of the piston to free them after removing the end caps on the rods.

Likely stock bore for a ka24de or one of the other engines that have the right bore/appropriate pin height for a stroker.

I definitely agree with John about going with a steel top and putting a small table like that on good lockable casters. Make the top fairly thick so it stays straight after years of throwing things on it, clamping, hammering, general abuse, etc. It's likely that it will become more of a "fab table" rather than just a "welding table". I like to put some short pieces of pipe (open at both ends) at about a 45* angle on the legs to hold my MIG gun, and others with a capped end to hold SMAW rods. TIG filler generally stays on the machine as I clean it right before I use it. Looks like you got the height about right. I can't stand bending over a short table all day!

Hey Matt, Sent you a PM about bolt-on coilovers -Ryan

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