cockerstar

winner It's heavily used in the paintball industry for it's self lubricating properties and durability.

Same from 240z to 280z? If so, I have several.

It should wire up just like the stock style coil and resistor. Just swap everything onto it exactly how it came off of the stock one. Should just be the 4 wires.

Derek, are they the 2+2 ones the same? I think I have a new set.

NO2 isn't a fuel source, it increases the oxygen content of the intake to be able to burn more fuel.

Still looking for the manifold if someone one has one.

I realllly hope this is intentionally ironic...

You'd be best off renting a trailer from u-haul and taking the whole parts car down to the body shop if you don't have the tooling to do it yourself. I just did one one an s30 and it took me a good four hours, and I knew what I was doing. It really is a pain to get the whole panel out in one piece. You might be able to cut out the portion you need though.

hmmm Not sure what I think of it.

Very nice!

I've done quite a bit of body work (ie. sun roof patch, stitch welded in and done right) to my Z, and would like to think that I'm half-way decent at body work. I just haven't messed with the painting realm of things. I've always done my own body work and taken the car to get painted somewhere. This was just to specifically try out the rustoleum method I've seen others have mild success with. It's a hood I pulled off of my parts car that I have maybe 20 minutes or so worth of prep work into. Just wanted to see how the rustoleum sprayed before I shot my practice car with it. Not looking to get anything overly nice here. The cost of paint and materials is approaching $40. If it was for my Z I'd buck up and spend $50 for a cheap HPLV and another $200 on some real paint

Hey grumpy! Finally got the engine built, and now I'm trying to get everything all wrapped up so we can stick it in the camaro. I've had a lot of suggestions for an intake manifold, but as always, I wanted to confirm with you. The car is 90% street driven, so I'm focusing on the low end here, which makes me assume I should stick with a good flowing dual plane. What I've been suggested is aedelbrock rpm air gap with a 1" carb spacer to increase plenum volume, but I remember you saying that a single plane intake was better for cams with more duration. Cam is a .468/.485 lift, 290/300 dur on a 114 degree lsa. Engine is a 355 with TRW 4 valve relief forged flat tops. Heads are gasket matched 882's with a heavily upgraded valve train. Compression should be about 9.0-9.5:1. Exhaust is a set of long tube headers into purple hornies. Ignition is an AC Delco HEI. Carb is a 600cfm Holley with vacuum secondaries. What would you recommend?

If I have to pick just one, it's got to be 110v. 220 is nice, but I need my 110! big single turbo, or two smaller ones?

I have some issues under the layer of paint. There were some issues in the previous paint job, so I took a few areas down to bare metal. I feathered the edges out a bit, but not nearly well enough, but with 6 coats already on the hood before I started (3 primer, and 3 top) there is really some depth differences with the surface. That's what you're definitely seeing in the top right corner there Pete It's also in about four other spots. Drax, What stages would you suggest for wet sanding? As in, start around this grit, move to this, and finish with this. Followed by a cut and buff of course. Also, any suggested drying time before I start the wet sanding? I think I didn't go fine enough with the final sanding before paint. You can still see some of the scratches, but then again, it's only the first coat. I think I smoothed it all out with 100 grit on the DA and then ran over everything with 180 on the DA again. I pan on shooting my car in a make shift paint booth, or in the driveway around 4am when the sun starts to come up and it's still very calm and bug free out, but this was just for practice and to work some of the kinks out before I move on to doing my practice car - a '79 280zx. Thanks for all of the comments guys! Please keep them coming, so I can improve on what I've got here. After I get it down, and feel like I'm doing a quality job I'm wanting to do a little write up.

Was pretty sad! I decided to take an adventure into the realm of at home painting on the cheap. Thinned down rustolem shot through a harbor freight gravity gun know a lot of people have had success with the method as a cheap, make your project one color, paint job. I found a lot of people suggesting to thin it with acetone for spraying as it dries much faster. Most people said to mix it until it shoots well, but somewhere in the 3-4 ounces of acetone to 8 ounces of paint seems to work well. I mixed it to 4:8 acetone to paint and it just looked too thin, so I added a few more ounces of paint to the mix. Guess it wasn't! I ended up with quite a bit of orange peel... Also, my prep wasn't nearly good enough. I didn't feather the old paint out nearly enough, and with two repaints on the hood, it really shows. Then again, I shot gloss black which shows everything. This was just a practice run, and I'll definitely be experimenting some more and posting up some more pics

I'll take it PM'd

Also, check your firing order. When I first got my car running I had the wires for 5 and 6 swapped and it caused the back three cylinders to not fire. I don't know why it effected number four too, but there was no change when I pulled the wires at the back three cylinders to check spark. Maybe 5 and 6 not firing resulted in very low vacuum on the back three cylinders, which added to the issue of my untuned carbs, causing the back three to be very lean? FWIW, I've found that when something is screwy and you're not quite sure what's wrong, verifying the firing order is so easy and quick that it's always worth doing.

Definitely the v10 tomahawk! having lots of time and no money, or having lots of money and no time?

There's some pretty cool 3rd party stuff out there for vBulliten! I have no idea on the costs, but it's always nice to know what kind of experiences others have had with a seller when you're buying something. It doesn't solve the same purpose as the 'minimum posts' does, but it is a nice feature. Has a system like the 'old' feedback version I outlined earlier been considered? I'm not sure how much actual work would be needed to do it, but I think it's just adding another sub-forum to the B/S/T area. A bit off topic here, but I definitely used to play. Paintball was my first addiction, girls were the second, and Zs came third I made my own half block back in the day! Makes me want to convert it to pump and start playing again... http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d128/cockerstar/guns/DSCN3757.jpg http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d128/cockerstar/guns/DSCN3756.jpg

Just like the title says, I want to buy an edelbrock rpm air gap intake manifold. New or used, it doesn't matter as long as it's in decent shape. Willing to buy, or trade for it. Have plenty of s30 stuff and some small block stuff as well. I'm not dead set on the intake manifold, but I'm looking for something to match a .465/.488 290/300 cam in a 355 sbc. Looking to make good power from idle to six grand or so. Best way to get in contact with me is a PM or an email. My address is ryan.p.a.clark@gmail.com Thanks, Ryan

Derek, which head are you running?

It depends on which t-56 you get for what has to be done. From what I understand, an LT1 t-56 will bolt right up with the correct (and expensive) aftermarket flyweheel. It has to have the front of the LT1 flywheel and the back of the gen I sbc to match the 2 piece rear main.

You're crazy Drax! I've got nothin' on my end

That sounds great! Here's what I'm thinking if I go with white for my Z: White body / hatch / stock front valences Shaved "datsun" rear - per Beau's trial with the embossed letters gone over in black Black /carbon BRE spoilers, front and rear Black/carbon hood - mounted with black hood pins Black/carbon ZG flares Early 240 front bumper welded smooth and powdered black All locks, handles, and window trim powdered black. Leave the stainless out of the windshield and hatch rubber, or have it powdered and installed too. Shaved drip rails / side markers / emblems (possibly have emblems powdered black too?) Shave the mirror mounting on the doors and run black fender mirrors Basically, a base of white with black accents everywhere

An amazing sample of a trader rating is what pbnation.com has put into place. It looks just like zilvia's, and as Nick said, it's similar to eBay's. Here's a link to my trading feedback on there. I got out of paintball shortly after they switched to this system, so I don't have a ton of feedback on it. Before there was a 'feedback' sub-forum where everyone posted a thread and users that they had a transaction with would make a post. When you wanted to know what a seller/buyer was like you would just search the sub forum for their user name. Here's that thread. I know they run on the same system as us (vBulliten), so it might be easy to implement the same kind of idea.