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Pac_Man

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Everything posted by Pac_Man

  1. Pac_Man
    If I had 10k for my car... I'd - Fix any rust - Sandblast/strip and POR 15 on anything that might need it (engine bay, bottom of car, etc.) - Strut bars - Upgrade fusible links to fuse block - Front air dam - Rear disk brakes - Front disk upgrade - Coilovers - CV Axles - New bushings - 300zx CLSD - L28ET swap (or RB25/26 depending on budget) - Intercooler - T5 transmission - 10 JDM gauges so you can gauge the gauge that gauges your boost pressure gauge - Megasquirt ECU Probably some other stuff I can't think of at the moment. I can't put numbers on all of these off the top of my head but I'm sure it would fall well within 10k if you're willing to put in some work. The nice thing about a car with this stuff is it would be ready and willing by the time you got an RB26 and it would be able to handle the power pretty well. Frame rail reinforcement could be in order depending on how much power you want to put down and the condition they're in. If you go with the L28, get rid of the j pipe and use an intercooler. Run at 10psi and you've got at least 200hp right there. Get a good exhaust on there and you can probably overshoot your 220 mark if you want to. Not to mention adding Megasquirt.
  2. Pac_Man
    Thanks for the help to both of you. I went and snapped a picture of my hoses for reference... Hopefully this will help someone lead me further to knowing exactly what I need.
  3. Pac_Man
    This 1000x. You can pretty much guarantee that the more you take apart the car to work on it, the more stuff you'll find along the way that will raise the red flags and need to be replaced. Working on the engine will probably result in you doing everything seattlejester suggested along the way but with the added stress (and expense) of not expecting to do it.
  4. Pac_Man
    Hi everyone, I'm changing out the heater control valve in my car and possibly the heater core while I'm at it. I want to replace the hoses since there's a good chance that the current ones will crack or break when I remove them. I've been trying to source new ones and I can't seem to find the whole set anywhere. I was going to buy 2 of the 3 at Black Dragon but after checking their diagram and my car's setup, they seem to be different so I'm hesitant on buying from them. Not to mention a lot of them are fairly pricy... I'm not really looking to pay $70 for a few little hoses. Do I need the shaped hose? Or could I use some unshaped hose instead? And if I need the shaped hose, can someone point me to a place that sells them for a reasonable price? EDIT: For clarification, the hoses pictured here are the 3 I'm looking for: Thanks. - Brandon
  5. Pac_Man
    It's all relative, really. For the time, they were probably about average in terms of safety. Compared to the cars of today, they seem like death traps. No electronic driving assists, no airbags, very little impact absorption, and they're pretty small. As for personal experience... I must have been going somewhere between 35-45 mph and went into a hard right turn (it ends up being a 90 degree change in direction, I don't know if there's a technical way to describe that). Back end slid out to the left, I over-corrected to the right, and it fishtailed until I ended up with the ass of the car in a hill on the right side of the freeway, suspending itself above the small ditch. Luckily the car ended up with only a busted RLCA/spindle pin, a fair sized dent in the driver quarter panel, and the driver side wheels got scratched up. I was completely unharmed. Shaken, of course, but I didn't even really feel sore after.
  6. Pac_Man
    Did you check the coolant level?
  7. Pac_Man
    I don't want to butt in on someone else's thread but is it possible to use camber plates with the Ground Control coilovers? I'm not too savvy on how coilovers work.
  8. Pac_Man
    Thanks! I've never heard of this website before but it looks like I'll have to keep it bookmarked for the future. Do you happen to know if that valve is actuated by the cable that's connected to the temperature control?
  9. Pac_Man
    Here's an exploded diagram showing where it's mounted and how: Here's another diagram that will help you reference where it actually sits in the car:
  10. Pac_Man
    Hi everyone, Recently my uncle has helped me to tackle the issue of my heater not working. Upon taking out the glovebox and center console to get an idea of what's happening (or rather what isn't), we noticed a couple things. - The cable that is actuated by the temperature control seems to be rusty and isn't moving. It's also bent. The one I'm referring to is the one that's behind the passenger side dash, not the one that's connected directly to the switch on the control panel. - The hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core should be replaced. I was hoping to replace the heater core while we were at it because i'm almost positive it's original, but the hoses would need to be replaced at the same time. - The heater control valve seems to be pretty worn out and may not be functioning. I'm not entirely sure what this part is actually called or what its specific functions are, but there is some sort of spring mechanism attached to it. My uncle is fairly certain it's some kind of thermostat. It's the part that is shown in this picture: And of course, finding these parts has been nearly impossible. I found hoses for the inlet and outlet of the heater core on ebay, but they're over $20 each. I've only found the heater valve in one place and it's priced at $200 there. As for the temperature linkage, I haven't been able to find anything. I'm not sure if this is because I don't know the proper names or perhaps these parts are just impossible to find. Can anyone help point me in the direction of where to buy these parts? Thanks - Brandon
  11. Pac_Man
    I think OP meant the light doesn't blink when he activates the turn signal switch on the left side of the steering column.
  12. Pac_Man
    I'm not sure how disassembled your doors are, but if I remember correctly from when I did it, the order for putting everything back in is: Exterior handle Window crank mechanism Window Lower roller rail (the one mounted in the door)- almost impossible to mount the window with it still on the door Upper window frame **Be sure you adjust the window properly here** Interior paneling Interior handle
  13. Pac_Man
    Kash, my suggestion would be looking for a Honda motor. There's a thread on it somewhere around here (I don't remember specifically where) but I'm sure the motors are plentiful and cheap. Given the write-ups and information posted back and forth about the swap, that's probably the easiest route.
  14. Pac_Man
    Out of curiosity and for future searchers' sake, what got it working? I'm interested in doing a rear brake swap as well.
  15. Pac_Man
    Assuming it's real wood, you should just be able to sand whatever old finish is still on to get it off, then stain it whatever desired color and probably put some coats of tung oil over that to protect it.
  16. Pac_Man
    I think this is the setup you're trying to use: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/37115-rear-disc-conversion-pics/ Looks like he had to do some machining on the parts to make them work, though.
  17. Pac_Man
    Ah ok, I didn't think the price difference would be that much. I've heard the T-5 is pretty simple to rebuild so that might not be a bad idea. Again, though, this is just what I've heard.
  18. Pac_Man
    From what I've seen, getting a rebuilt T-5 later on may cost you as much as spending more for the engine with the 5 speed on it. You could rebuild that engine and install the T-5 in your car in the meantime with the stock engine unless it's on its last legs.
  19. Pac_Man
    Wide wheels/tires make a world of difference! I went from the stock steelies with old Goodyear tires from possibly 20+ years ago to 15x8 Enkeis with (I think) 225/50/r15 tires. Really difficult to lose traction, even if it's wet.
  20. Pac_Man
    Hi everyone, I've had an issue with my Z for a while which hasn't really been a big deal but I figured I should probably figure out what it is in case it does turn into an issue that could be prevented. Every so often when I start my car, it idles rough (usually between 500-700rpm), shudders, and bogs down. It loses quite a bit of power until I drive it for a bit. After that, it's fine. It's happened with the engine hot and cold. Part of me wants to say that it seems to be the symptoms of the cold start injector firing when it doesn't need to, but I'm not sure. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Pac Man
  21. Pac_Man
    There are small computer units that detect when an injector is firing. They're fairly inexpensive but I think that would be a good place to start if you think they might be bad. You could also check the fuel injector connectors. They're known for breaking easily.
  22. Pac_Man
    Ok, that helps, but I'm just looking for someone/something to explicitly say that the spring should be exerting its force when the crank is being rolled in the lifting direction. I actually have the window in now and it seems to be going up and down fine, but I want to be sure before I reassemble everything.
  23. Pac_Man
    Well I'm having another issue (gasp). I took off my bumpers today and decided to take off the front shock absorbers since they don't require removing anything else. I got the passenger side off, but the driver side is not wanting to go. I got the two front-most bolts off, but the one to the back behind the shock is not wanting to come off. I moved the airbox out of the way to get to it, but I still can't get it. Anyone have any advice?
  24. Pac_Man
    I checked out the interior handle today. You're right, with the panel in place the hook doesn't drop off, so I don't have to adjust it. Thanks for the heads up. I've run into another issue though: putting the window regulator back in. I know the spring is there to counter the weight of the window (or something to that effect) but I'm not sure I put it in right. The only way I could get the spring to rest in what I think is the normal position (hook of the spring like \|/ under the piece of metal that holds it) causes it to compress when i put the teeth back into the gear of the crank. Is that how it's supposed to be?
  25. Pac_Man
    I got my new door handle from Black Dragon last night so I swapped it in today. Pretty straightforward, and now the door opens like new! I also figured out why the interior handle is acting up. I noticed that the little loop that the handle's hook grabs onto is loose from the handle. After looking through my Haynes manual, it seems that you can slide the metal panel that the interior handle is bolted onto to adjust it. Can anyone confirm this? I haven't had the chance to try it but if I can slide it forward a bit, that should solve the issue.
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