Six_Shooter

There has to be some broken MS's out there that need a new home...

I was replying to LanceVance in my last reply. It looks like $20 is the minimum: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/donate/

You need to be a donating member to start a new topic in either "for sale" forum.

I agree, level out the heads for rotisserie use. You are correct about the built in angle of the heads. With many off the shelf engine stands there is plenty of slop between the stand and the head, so that when an engine is on it, this will keep the engine level. With the car being supported at both ends, the sagging is less of an issue.

Have you checked ignition timing? Checking over carb adjustment and function will also be a good idea.

So what wiper motor are you using? I don't understand the confusion.

I picture or more would help to identify the area. I'm not sure what you mean by "rear tie downs," so I'm not sure I understand where to look. Funny how "there's nothing new in the world of Z-cars", and yet, here is something new.

I believe the Hella conversion globes are DOT approved. It seems that just about any of the conversion globes that don't use a clear lens are DOT approved.

What do you consider "too hot?" Are parts melting? What are the engine temps at this point of "too hot of an engine bay?" You may be solving a problem that doesn't exist. The other thing that is as important to keeping engine temps down as cooling is the tune. I've reduced engine temps on my own cars by as much as 30 degrees under the same conditions with a good tune, making more power and better power bands to boot.

After seeing the engine test fit pictures I like the idea of the rad in front of the rad support. With some proper ducting/air deflectors, it could be a very efficient set-up. That would leave a lot of space behind the engine for turbocharger(s)....

I only stopped in this thread because I was looking for solutions on a cooling routing issue I'm working on for a friend's RB swap, but glad I did, a lot of little touches I like about your car.

It's nice when people assume that others have not followed along from the beginning. /sarcasm

The difference between what people do in a Miata and what you're doing in your S30, is that the design of the front still forces air through the radiator in the Miata, using the headlight buckets provides an alternate route, in a different part of the air flow over the car, for air to get into the engine bay at a very different location. The idea of creating air dam(s) around the rad to force more air through the rad, doesn't just apply to the S30, but all cars on the road. This is one reason that you will see those small air dams under the rad support on many cars, especially '80s GM cars. It was used to create a low pressure air behind the rad to force the high pressure air in front of the rad through it. As far as turbo adding engine bay heat is concerned, using a turbo blanket or ceramic coatings are MUCH more effective at keeping engine bay temps down than to try and use air flow to cool the engine bay. The air passing through the rad will still be cooler than the heat coming off the turbine housing and exhaust manifold, so the air through the rad will still be effective at cooling the engine bay. I still think I'd worry more about getting the air out of the engine bay and less on getting air into the engine bay. Creating a way to evacuate the air more efficiently will create a way for more air to flow through the engine bay.

Is that one of the roads that Top Gear featured while looking for the "Ultimate Road for Driving Experience," but had a 40 MPH speed limit?

Since we don't know what year the OP's car is, I would not recommend to them to remove the guts of the stock prop valve. Doing this with the early S30 (up to '72) means that you are only affecting the rear brakes (though changing overall balance). Gutting a later prop valve, ('73+) means that the front and rear brake systems are no longer independent, and if there is a brake line failure at either end of the car, will lose brake fluid from both reservoirs.

Whatever I do, Zero theme or not will be green.

I like it.

Yeah, the A.I. leaves a LOT to be desired. The thing that annoys me more though is the over use of brakes by the computer cars, so you get slowed WAY down by them, trying not to hit them, and then makes it difficult to pass them on a straight, especially when they have the good line.

Yesterday, I took a pair of 260Z seat belts, and a pair of 240Z seat belts, disassembled each set, to make one set of fully retractable 240Z seat belts. Today, I drove it over 120 mile round trip to drop off something to a friend.

I like the wheels, but don't like the stretch.

If it's a joint that will need to come apart, I would use the V-band style clamp. Using the conventional crush clamps that are common, usually make it near impossible to get an exhaust system back apart, especially without heating excessivly using an oxy-acetylene style torch to expand the outer tube. Another option would be a wide stepped band style clamp, that could be used with a slip joint and usually allow for an easier dissasembly later on, since there is no crushing of the tubes. Soot and carbon from the exhaust can cause the slip joint to become tight however and may still be difficult to get apart. As suggested using some anti-seize could help get them apart later.

I ran a 1/8" NPT tap into the stock oil port over 4 years ago, and not had a problem with leaks. The threads between the two are very close. I filled the flutes with grease to catch any shavings.

Looking to play with MegaSquirt on my test bench, to get more familar with it. If you have burned out, poorly soldered, or otherwise just failing MegaSquirt ECUs, let me know what you have. Obviously not looking to spend a large amount, otherwise I'd just buy a new one, to play with. MS1, 2, 3, Preferably board V.3, but will consider others.

Proper squirters have a pressure valve in them that closes at low pressure. I would imagine that many are set at a point where they would close at idle.

Look up Kirchoff's Voltage law, you can calculate the end result using it.