Well me and Xander have jumped the OBX bandwagon aswel ..
here is my diff
Her is my helical madness.
As stated before you do not only get the diff but apparently the factory gets rid of there grind waste in the carrier .
Funny thing is that my diff had no holes on one side of smaller gears while Xanders had holes on both side.. I guess Xander got lucky on the weight savings there!
Apart from that the OBX factory is not to keen on cleaning there casting molds, as you can see imprints of all sort of 'foreign' parts in the casting, it does not look to bad.
Also the skirt of the unit has some broken off edges because the bolts are close to the edge and the casting inst great. Sadly i don't have a before picture .. however i just ground the edges round making sure no casting parts will come loose there
The metal used i pretty hard though as numbering some castings was harder than it is on other metal i use my number kit for.
I will use a 3.3 gearing with diff cooler to compensate the heat that comes with these units( stock on euro turbo's).
As far as wheel lifting ... well a z should not lift or better, none rear wheel drive car should lift a traction wheel in my book!
Unlike the powerbrute fitments does not seem an issue sofar, however that leads me to a question.
how do you remove the bearings of the original unit ? as you can see in the right side of the picture? I can apply gentle force like.. but im hoping for some tips here. ( edit bearing puller!!)
So lets see who will have the first one to explode.... I have faith in it sofar however nothing like road testing i guess
So all in all im still happy (however old gear oil stinks!!)I dropped in the washers ))(())(( however i did not use a pin, they seem to line up fine. We went this way so you have two of the stock washers ( witch are crap) backing each other up . piece of mind and enough preload i think. if not after some runs it will have to come out agian