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Pharaohabq

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Everything posted by Pharaohabq

  1. Pharaohabq
    Oooh, that's a big change there with the rack, you'll need to be careful getting things lined up because you could really throw off the steering geometry. I'd heard of swapping the stock cross member 180 deg, but you still have the same geomety issue. The steering rack holds the mount for the lower steering arms and thus you can't move it and when you redesign you need to be really careful to keep those arms in the same location. Take a look at how that suspension is going to mount before you do too much more work in that direction. other than that, you can drop the engine another 1-2cm and consider a skid plate to protect the oil pan, that's a lot cheaper than shaving, but put your hood on and check before you change the height/shave.
  2. Pharaohabq
    Hmm Well I haven't seen the VQ40DE pan, but according to the Nissan parts catalogue they're two different pans and are not interchangeable. though concievably you could swap the lower block to get the different pan. The Nissan P/N for the VQ35 is 110-AC700 and the VQ40 P/N is 11110-EA200. I don't know how interchangable they are, especially with the difference in displacement. I wouldln't guess that you can swap them. The pictures look different too. Obvious differences are starter location and oil filter location. You should call the guys up at Turbo-Toys and ask if they know, since I know they dismantle a lot of VQ's. The HR engine has an entirely different lower block than both DE engines. the P/N is 110-JK20A. You may be able to use a dry sump to relocate your oil filter, but that won't fix the pan hanging down. Maybe see if Greddy has a low profile pan, or prehaps you can have something machined... It's a tough issue. My HR hangs down nearly an inch below my steering crossmember on my 78' 280z. I'm planning a skid plate just in case.
  3. Pharaohabq
    Socorob also mentioned the Plastic piece under the horn was broken on his friend's car, I'm not sure how often that part breaks too, but if anyone is interested, I could work up a model for it as well. I was also thinking about the Combination switch, I seem to remember a part in that that breaks easilly, does anyone remember which part that is? We may be able to redesign one a little stronger.
  4. Pharaohabq
    Hmm Well I've been printing in ABS, so pretty much whatever ABS can stand up to. Not a lot of heat, I think exhaust would be a bit hot for it. Oil, probably in limited exposure, since acetone quickly melts ABS it may not be the best solution. A lot of people are beginning to print in Nylon which is much better for temperature, oil and flexibility. Some of the bigger 3D print houses are using it. Nylon is also more flexible, but it's also a bit more expensive. Another possibility is having a part printed then cast in whatever metal you'd like. that's been done successfully, but it's much more than I am capable of in my hobby production. Lastly metal parts can be laser Sintered 3D printed, but that's not cheap either, but that's direct printed in metal. I'm using a Prusa Mendel, 3D printer. It's hobby level, but still very good. I'm certain it's good enough for reproducing most S30 parts within a reasonable size. (200mm*200mm*100mm tall)
  5. Pharaohabq
    Thanks, Send me a PM, this isn't the right location for selling stuff. Much more I want to know what other parts people are looking for so that we may be able to start a 3D printable data base of parts that are no longer available (NLA) or way too expensive for average joes in NOS. I was looking at printing the Series 1 hatch Drain covers/internal drains that mount inside the hatch. Now I want to be clear that though reproductions are good, they are not the same as original OEM, but certainly they're much less expensive. If you have a 3D printer, I could share my Models so you could print your own.
  6. Pharaohabq
    You're doing an amazing job, quite a bit of attention to detail. It's definitely an inspiration to us all. You've really done some sweet upgrades. That AZCar stuff is pretty!
  7. Pharaohabq
    Pretty interresting. Not sure I like the white tail panel, but hey, it's your car. It looks pretty intact with quite a few "upgrades" so you're not doing badly at all What plans are you thinking of? Mostly just fixing the hidden stuff?
  8. Pharaohabq
    So I'm beginning to fix some things on my series1 240Z #5837. One of the most obvious issues is the horn button. The black plastic behind it was 40 years old and cracked and crumbling to the point that no amount of glue or Zipties was going to hold that button on. So talking with a buddy of mine, he suggested maybe I could print up a fix. He gave me another busted up button to tear apart, so I did and created a new insert to replace the busted up 40 year old crappy plastic. I printed this out of ABS and worked it into my old button after removing the old plastic. I made it about 3mm wider OD to ensure a snug fit. It can be glued in place with rubber cement, but I'm not certain that's necessary, as it's fairly tight. It fits well on 240Z's and I can print it in about any color (not that you'd see it). Here it's printed in white so you can see the detail. It snaps on just the same as the original did, but ABS is a little more forgiving. If there's a market, I was thinking of selling the printed inserts for $20 ea. It's very interesting to think of recreating various classic S30 parts that are difficult to come by, especially NOS. Let me know if there's any other parts you might like to see recreated. Phar
  9. Pharaohabq
    Hey, Nice buildup so far. I'm really digging the T3 stuff. How ar eyou liking it now that you've had it for a while? What brackets and such did you need for the Z32 brakes? I know the T3 rear looks like they just bolt on. but how about the front? How did you get them to fit?
  10. Pharaohabq
    Mikey - Great job! I'm glad you figured out your hesitation. I take it it was a fuel starvation/wiring fault issue? That is the pink baffle you were talking about, in the tank? I guess the VQ is more thirsty than a Pulsar 4 banger. Did you ever post that bracket for the R32 brakes? I wonder if it would work for the Z32 brakes?
  11. Pharaohabq
    I'm not sure I understand. You said you're not allowed to have visible Welds in your mounts? Does that mean you can weld it, but that the welds like you've done in your engine mounts have to be cleaned up and sanded smooth? That seems pretty strict, but I guess they're trying to keep things safe and prevent people from just throwing things together. I was going to use the Stock rubber isolators myself, but they are so tall, I didn't want to add to the trouble of getting around the AC pump for the steering shaft. I'm using something similar to Mikey's mounts, but instead of the stock mount, like you've got, I'm using the stock engine bracket, Ford Bronco rubber isolators and the under mount almost the same as Mikey's/McKinney's mount. Of course I've built mine myself as well.
  12. Pharaohabq
    MikeyM's mounts aside. I see in your pictures what you've been doing. You've cut out a lot of your Crossmember, Maybe more than really needed, but no matter, with some good bracing and boxing in, that crossmember should work out well. Here's a picture of mine from my HR thread: You can see there the little cut I did for my oil filter. I may end up putting an adapter and relocating the filter along with adding an oil cooler. Currently though I have about 2cm of clearance around the filter with that cut. You can see I've boxed in and added a good amount of material to the cross member. Unfortunately you can't move that crossmember without messing with the steering/suspension geometry. Now that AC pump really looks like it'll be in the way. I'm note sure how you're going to get around that. I'm going to try making a plate that will move the AC Pump up along that side though on the VQ35, the Water line from the radiator is about 10cm above the pump. Another idea is to try to swap the AC and PS pumps, moving the AC pump out farther to the left and the PS pump up and hopefully the steering will clear after adding Ujoints. Making the brackets will be a pain, but I gotta have AC too, Though it gets hot here in New Mexico, I know its a lot hotter in Dubai. When I get to this part, I'll be certain to show you what I do. Though I think you're ahead of me since I still am working on getting my Z painted. Phar
  13. Pharaohabq
    Here's the Link to MikeyM's VQ mounts: It's in the RedZedBuildThread on the V6 forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106860-red-zed-build-thread/
  14. Pharaohabq
    We post this all the time, but here's the S30 FSM link... http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html You might also look for Z clubs in your area. Call your local Nissan Dealer, they usually have a relationship with the local clubs. The Clubs could certainly hook you up with someone who also has an S30 Z car.
  15. Pharaohabq
    As I said earlier, they're cheaper to replace than they are to repair. Look on Craigslist and Ebay for one. That or the For sale ads on here. There's a lot of people who are parting out S30's and S130's it you need I can even give you a douple names for guys out here, but shiping would likely cost more than buying from your local JY or parts source. Look around, there's tons of S130's being parted. Don't go back to a 4sp, sure the low end ratio is slightly better, but missing a 5th gear OD really sucks if you see any highway drivetime. You should be able to find a used one for around $100 bucks.
  16. Pharaohabq
    Getting those stones out is a REALLY BIG pain in the ass. We did that on a early 74' 260 tank and I'm not sure we ever got them all, but it took a lot of shaking to get them out. I'm planning on just cutting the top of the "hump" out cleaning, then welding in a flange for a z34 in tank pump on my 280Z project.
  17. Pharaohabq
    we've got a lot of guys on here parting out S30's so if anything post up a request in the Wanted section. As for the good whap and reinstall fix. That's probably all you need unless it's corroded inside. there's not that much that could go wrong in a relay so you're probably good.
  18. Pharaohabq
    Wow looks like you have a lot of pictures, Can't wait to see them...
  19. Pharaohabq
    Wow those Turbos are a squeeze in there. I wonder if you can swap left/right exhaust manifolds to move the turbos forward a little to clear your brake MC a little more. It'll be tight either way. I can you you did have to cut quite a big from the steering crossmember.. If you box it in in front and under the Rack you should be fine. Did you look at the engine mounts in the link I sent you a while ago? They're pretty good and a lot more minimal than using anything that looks similar to the stock mounts (350z type) That setup uses L angle iron to allow the mount to be slid forward and back so you can get just the right locations. I can send the link again if you need. Yeah, That shifter, even with the shifter shortened as far as I could, I still had to cut about 2" back on the shifter hole to make mine fit. You'll be fine I think. maybe 1", just enhour to get into gear. You may have to notch the right side to so you can get it into reverse. but that'll all come later. Phar
  20. Pharaohabq
    Hmm does the clutch feel like it's disengaging at all? a 3/4 inch is pretty close, might just need to adjust the pivot like I said. Try pulling loose each of those AFM plugs one at a time to check for corrosion and to verify fit. Aside from that, check your distributor lines especially the coil. Verify you have power on the low voltage point on the coil. Then check for spark at one of the plug leads. (usually I use an old spark plug, and plug it into a lead and leave it on the valve cover so I can see if it's sparking. If you have fuel and Spark, then it should run right? You didn't mess with the timing so it's probably not that.
  21. Pharaohabq
    Sorry there was no Go man... Hopefully next year, in the meantime maybe your brother can work on it and keep us updated. I'm sure I'll still be around in a year so I'll be looking forward to when you get to pick this up again. You did a ton of work and it's only Age that's keeping the car from running, so keep it in mind and good luck in Aus...
  22. Pharaohabq
    That rack setup should work out well. Are you going to use the Stock VQ30 PS pump? I'd imagine that's the way to go, the harder part will be plumbing the Hight pressure lines. Usually they use thick wall metal tubing. I'm sure any hydralic company can make you some custom HP hoses. It may be possible to reuse some S130 PS lines, or maybe your VQ30 lines, but be really careful bending them as any kinks can ruin the hard lines. I'm planning on this same swap after I get my VQ35 running and in place, using the VQ pump.
  23. Pharaohabq
    I'm not sure about the Transmission, but the clunking may be in your clutch perhaps? You'll probably have to pull it to see what's going on. These are cheaper to replace with used than to repair. As for the U joint. I know you can replace them, I did the ones in my 78'. Pain in the as$ to do, but it's possible. An axle/driveshaft shop might do it cheaply for you.
  24. Pharaohabq
    There's a few guys on here that part out Z's PM me for #'s or check the for sale/wanted.
  25. Pharaohabq
    Looking good. That's exactly the reason we have to mod the crossmember. It's the only way to get it to sit low enough. Now how high does your intake plenum sit? I'm pretty interested in seeing that, since the VQ35 plenums are so large. The VQ30 might be swapable between the two engines, if that's the case it might be an option for the VQ35DE guys. Why move the Radiator? the fan doesn't do that much for the engine, mostly it's the airflow through the radiator that does most of the cooling. Granted it's a LOT hotter where you live, but it might just be a better idea to use a thicker radiator, mounted in the stock location with an electric fan (some people use 90's ford taurus Efans, but whatever you can find in Dubai is great. Did you chrome then paint the timing cover, or did I just miss some masking?
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