SHO-Z

Does have a non working bumper

I got this off the internet a while back. It on a 5.0L but the information is real good. Engine Compression There are a couple of areas in which optimizing an engine for naturally aspirated power and forced induction power are at complete odds with one another. Static (engine) compression ratio is one of those. Most musclecar enthusiasts are readily aware of the fact that increasing the compression ratio of a naturally aspirated engine results in more power per unit of fuel combusted. The amount of engine compression that can be run is limited by the fuel octane that will be used. Forced induction engines are fundamentally different in that two sources of compression are available: the compressor and the engine. Effective compression is the term often used to describe the impact of the external compressor on the combustion efficiency. So how does a lower static compression benefit a forced induction engine? Let's look at an example. Compare these two situations: 1) On a stock 5.0 with ~9:1 static compression it is found that a non intercooled supercharger can run a maximum of 9psi of boost without detonation. The effective compression is ~14.5:1 and 320 peak rwhp is produced. 2) Same engine/supercharger combination but with low compression 8:1 pistons installed. It is found that a maximum of 13 psi can be run without detonation. Effective compression is again ~14.5:1 but significantly more air is allowed to enter the combustion chamber. Peak rwhp is now 380. In both cases the same octane fuel is used. So a static compression change in a forced induction setup, when compensated for with additional boost, is analogous to adding displacement in a naturally aspirated engine. Sounds easy enough right? So what is to stop us from 7:1 or even 6:1 static compression? Well there are a couple of considerations. First is the size of the compressor. As static compression decreases, the flow requirements of the compressor increase. You don't want to go so low on the static compression that the flow requirements exceed the capacity of the compressor. This is primarily a concern only if a compressor upgrade is not in the budget. In other words the static compression must be matched to the compressor being used and the fuel octane being run. The more fundamental limitation comes about as a result of the boost threshold. Since the compressor is being relied upon to maintain the effective compression at it's optimum ratio, when you are below the rpm at which maximum boost is available then the effective compression will drop along with some power and throttle response. With this in mind some compressor types are better suited to taking advantage of a low compression engine. Perhaps the best is the 2.2L Kenne Bell (Blowzilla). With full boost available at 2000rpm and plenty of capacity there is almost no downside to running as low a static compression as the blower can support. Centrifugals are at the other end of the spectrum. With the boost threshold at redline there is a clear tradeoff of some low end for top end power. Low compression/high boost combinations are a staple of the fast import cars. This is the primary reason the fastest turbo 4 and 6 cylinder cars typically put out a higher hp/displacement ratio than 5.0 liter Mustangs. I've seen a 4 cylinder car running as low as 6:1 compression and 45psi of boost.

It is a second generation 74 260Z. The early 260Z had small bumpers and the second generation had the big bumpers. Look at the plate on the door and see when it was made. My z started as a second generation 260.

A 75 is a 280z and it has Fuel injection. If it has carbs someone has changed it. Fuel injection can be a problem getting cleaned out.

I am trying to decide which size to go with on my old turbine style wheels. If I remember right the last time I measured the wheels they are zero offset. I am concerned that the 235s might hit the wheel fenders in the rear. I would like to go with the same size all around. I do have coil-overs so there is no concern on the inside.

There are blow through side draft Webers Z on the road and kits were made for them years ago. The simplest way is the draw though set up. I would look at getting a Jag SU for this, it is the largest SU made. As previously stated you are not going to be able to run a lot of boost on this set up due to the 240s compression ratio. Turbo’s motors run low CRs to get all of fuel possible in the engine, the turbo adds the rest of the CR. You might want to look up supercharger TR6 on the internet this is another option in lieu of a turbo. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37880&SortOrder=1

Camaro fender vent molded in. The plastic to metal bonding was a real problem until I glassed in the back side with fiber filler and used flexible body filler on the outside.

Here is a bacis supercharger calc. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95500

It all has to do with the ratio you are looking for ie how much boost. I have a M60 and will be using an aftermarket pulley for a ford lightning pickup.

I will not use bondo again on a car. Go to a auto paint store and get some of the new flexible fillers that are on the market, you will be a lot happier with the results.

One sugestion, Learn how to walk the cup! You set the ceramic cup on the piece to be welded, rock it forward to start the arc, then rotate the torch handle back an forth advancing the torch on the metal. It takes some time and practice to learn this process by your weld will look really smooth. Practice with the welder off and get the rythum of how it is done. I was a tig welder on pipe and this is how the pros do it.

I got this off of the internet, unless you are into some serious racing in which point you would not paint a caliper anyway, paint is an insulator. The boiling point of the brake fluid a 400° so 450° paint should have no problems. You know that the car companies have a safety factor between the boiling point of the fluid and the temp of the caliper. The properties necessary for quality Brake Fluid are controlled by the major Brake Fluid specifications ie the US Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5/5.1, SAE J1703, and ISO 4925. Many OEM’s have their own Brake Fluid specifications while many national standards authorities also have their own, but as a general rule all are based on the FMVSS, SAE or ISO standards. The main differences between them are summarised as follows:- Test Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point* Viscosity cSt ºC, min ºC, min @ -40ºC, max DOT 3 205 140 1,500 DOT5.1 260 180 900 SAE J1703 205 140 1,800 ISO 4925 205 140 1,500

I think it is more fun to have no designation to what the car is. The more you customize it the more people don't kanow what your diving. Most people can't figure out what I am driving.

I installed the MSA body kit, the front bumper was a piece of cake to install. The rear bumper was a real pain, with major gaps between the bumper and the body. I had to add fiberglass to the under side to fill the gaps. The side pods were twisted and were also hard to fit. But all in all I did get everything to fit. Do a search on this there are all sorts of input on this subject.

Thanks for the post, I was thinking of the same rims with 5 lug addapters. They look great.

Copper pipe is silver soldered not brazed normally. When the copper is taken to that temp, red hot, it will flake on the surface. You will need to acid wash the inside to remove all off the flaked copper. I would not want that crude running through my engine. I would still just solder it with 95/5, I do not think you will have any problem with cracking.

You can get about any fitting needed in DWV copper. It is used for drainage systems so the elbows are longer radius. It can also be soldered with 95/5 so putting it together is simple. They sell the 2" stuff at Lowes so you could look there for ideas on how the fittings look. Go to your local plumbing supply and check it out. I have put some of this stuff together many years ago when I worked in the pipe trades.

Here are the numbers Reading Standard Load HC 81 Pass 400 Idle 1360 Failed 400 I also am thinking of installing a 2 stage cat with air input. If you have any ideas please give me what you think. Really no one in this part of Phoenix will even look at it.

I forgot to mention that is at idle that I have any problem with high HC. At cruise it passes great. I think I might as well get a MSD 5A box, it couldn't hurt.

I have a late 260Z with a 280 motor, I looks like whoever put the 28O motor in used the 260 distributor and took off the air pump and EGR. Right now I have dual down draft webers on the car as the only modification to the motor. It has high HC when emission tested and fails, I read on line that multi spark ignitions will help this condition. At a later date I am planning on installing a set of 45mm Triple sk racing carbs that I picked up, and posibibly force induction. I will not be racing the car, it is strictly a street machine. IS the MSD 5 series multi spark and a blaster 2 coil worth getting? Also I have searched and could not find the thread showing how to wire one into 260Z, I am sure that I saw one but couldn't find it, this 24k connection is just to slow.

I would start with the metal frame from a Z dash and go from there. That way you would already have all of the mounting brackets in place. Take block foam, attach to the frame and shape what you want. Then lay fiberglass over the foam. Or take some serious dimensions and see if you can find a dash out of some other car that would fit and suit your purposes at the local wrecking yard. Have fun.

Go to ebay and put in weber velocity, there is a lot of stacks in there that could be modified with a different base plate that would work. It all matters how much time you want to put in to save some $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!

Tig rod is double de-oxidized. If you try to use oxi acetylene rod you will get precocity. Also with Tig welding the remember the old mother’s saying “Cleanliness is next to Godliness†Clean all of your pieces to weld up until they are clean. I use to use a flapper wheel on all carbon steel when I was Tig welding pipe.

I work 7 tens on a 3 week on 3 week off schedual. My comute is 3000 miles each way so add about anouther 20 hrs a shift.

I blasted my wheels myself with silica sand. They were black with brake dust and years of never cleaning, I built a box to blast them in and lined it with plastic to contain the sand, the wife used it for a planter after I was finished. Used a quality respirator, this is bad stuff to breathe. Polished the edge of the rim and the fins with 600 wet sand paper and then a buffing wheel in my side grinder.