jonbill

Good progress. Maybe the high idle is a small air leak. It doesn't take much to raise it a few 100rpm. Does MS have ignition advance idle control?

I think with 60kpa, there would be way too much air to idle at 800. Is the MAP calibrated properly?

60kpa sounds way too much at idle. What AFR does it have idling there? What rpm is it idling at?

https://youtu.be/6OPo9lz6wag I'm up and running now with Speeduino and ITBs. A long way to go on the tuning, but starts and idles well enough now. Not so clattery in real life

You could have a failed oil control ring and still get good compression. Also is it possible on megasquirt to set different injection parameters for different cylinders? My Speeduino allows it.

Resistor plugs give less electrical interference than non resistor plugs, so perhaps some EMS could be sensitive to interference from non resistor plugs. I wouldnt think coil packs would be affected though. I don't think there's a down side to using resistor plugs.

Does "jumping to its own direction" mean the car changes direction somewhat? If its clunking and steering at the backend when you come off the throttle I would think there's something loose in the suspension rather than the differential.

"it" appears to be 3 cam profiles and you are asked to pick one. The highest lift one won't work with stock valve springs. You should get new rockers with a new cam. You'll also need new lash pads. You won't know what size lash pads until you've mocked it up.

Thanks, that's really interesting about the idle speed. Since I installed this engine it's been idling at 1100, except this spring I installed Speeduino mapped ignition and dropped the idle to 950, just because I could really. I did maybe 2k miles like that before I found the damage. It would be very nice to not strip and rebuild the bottom end this winter to drill that oil jet. Maybe I'll just fit the new springs, skim the head up to 12:1 and finish the conversion to EFI.

Thanks. My engine I suppose got to about 6 or 7k miles before I discovered this wear. I've always used zddp additive with decent synthetic oil. I've had the cam repaired and discussed the springs with the cam grinder/repairer and others and consensus is that the schneider 68025 springs are a little too stiff for the L engine rocker arm setup; I probably have near 300 lb pressure at full lift with them. So I've bought some 68022 which are in the right range. I'll also be stripping the engine down and drill the block oil jet out to 3mm over the winter. I'm hoping those two changes should see it good for many more miles.

the injector should be closed unless it is triggered. You've got 5 that aren't spraying fuel with the engine off, and one that is right? I think you've got one stuck injector.

Why does the line from the pump inlet to the turbo have water flowing in both directions?

The site specific search I think actually requires no space before "hybridz.org" Site:hybridz.org search terms. With the space I think it treats hybridz.org as just another search term. (so it will more often find results on hybridz.org, but not exclusively)

Thanks. There's no discolouration, just missing material, so assume not overheated. Oil holes are definitely clear. Could be thin hardened depth, I'm ignorant of any treatment applied to cams TBH.

Thanks, they've certainly worked fine for 3 years with lots of revs, so no real reason to suspect them other than search not showing anyone here using the 68025 springs.

Thanks, yes, they were new Nissan ones. They don't have any damage. It has a high volume pump. Thanks for info on spray bar and lucas zddp.

Hi, I've been running a. 585 lift 307/8 duration cam for 3 years now (8 or 9k miles). A couple of the lobes have just started to lose material from near the tips. And I'm looking for how to avoid when I fit a replacement copy of the cam. The cam is reground from an oiled 1981 f54 l28. I have Schneider 68025 springs with a seat pressure = 125 lb ( I think) Are the seat pressures too much? I could swap for 68022 springs at 110lb. Should I use a spray bar too? Was I just unlucky or used the wrong zddp additive this year? Thanks for any pointers. Jon

Are you trying to install with two circlips per side?

So you turned the whole engine by turning the cam, and the wrong way? Which is to say you turned the crank by pulling on the tight side of the chain? That won't be a problem for the oil pump. Don't think that'll be a problem at all.

Why should you turn the cam at all to take the head off? Once the head is off you can turn the cam if you want. You just have to make sure it's back in the right position when you put it back on.

Great stuff, what was the problem?

I'll post my tune when I get home tomorrow. Do you have a similar setup to me? Looks like you've got 36-1 trigger wheel. Here's a thread I have on the speeduino forum while I was trying to get it to work that might have some useful info. https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2537

I suspect Quaife will advise you to install the circlips before installing the diff in the carrier. You might be better off biting the bullet and taking it out again. As long as you don't mix up the shims under the bearing cups you can't mess up the setup, so nothing to worry about.

It rather depends what you'll do with it. I'd recommend getting this book or one of the others like it. How to Build and Power Tune Weber and Dellorto DCOE and DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro Series) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1903706750/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ah7PCb8WCD7AH They'll help you pick the parts you want for your use case. First thing I'd do with them is swap them for 45s.

There was a time when the Quaife diffs didn't come with the circlips pre installed and you (or your installer) had to install them before installing the diff into the case. I've read people's troubles installing them after the diff is in the case. The circlips needs to be compressed and pushed square into the driveshaft hole until it expands into its groove. Sounds like yours just wasn't ever installed.