Chickenman

As Mythbusters would say. " Well there's your probelm!! " You cannot do it that way. Period. Hook your MS up correctly so it is controlling both your Fuel and Ignition. Right now your Stock ECU is still controlling the Ignition... although very poorly and in fail safe mode because of the wya you've hooked things up.

The 4 wire connector from the Dizzy, which is your CAS connected Directly to your Mega Squirt 2 ONLY. I'm thinking not. If the stock ECU is connected in any way to the circuit, it is probably confused as hell, because you are using the DIY trigger wheel. DIY just revised their Z31 trigger wheel instructions on Jan,31,2017. Included are complete setup guides and instructions for using the DIY Trigger wheel. Have a good read at the following link. Make sure all your Ms is configured correctly. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/

I'm confused by these two sentences. Are you saying that you have BOTH the stock ECU and the MS2 hooked up in some parallel configuration? What does this mean? " I haven't gotten around to going complete standalone yet " It sounds like you are trying to run fueling with MS, and spark with the stock ECU....? If so, that could be your problem. Stock ECU is probably in fail safe mode and has locked the timing at a default value. Stock ECU shouldn't even be in the car at this point. It should be sitting on a work bench. Have a look at the electrical flow chart on this .PDF. Lookat page EF & EC-6. Note the Input for the Crank Angle sensor. Then note the output from the ECU to the Power Transistor. If you've cut or spliced into that wire to connect to your MS 2, then the factory ECU may still be controlling Dwell. You could keep the Factory ECU if it still controls things like Air/Con control, Digital Dash Gauges etc... but you have to totally separate it's control over both Fuel and Spark to use standalone effectively. You should not be using the factory Power Transistor. Take that out of the circuit and put it on the work bench. Connect the Dizzy directly to the Mega squirt and use the built in coil drivers of the MS2 to drive the coil. That is the only way that the MS will have complete control over Ignition Timing and coil dwell.

Post up the .csv files. They can be opened with Excel.

Yes, it is a slow opening cam compared to some of the Modern stuff. But that also makes it easy on the valve train. It is the duration you have to be worried about. Fast acting ramps and longer .005" durations accentuate Piston to Valve contact At maximum Valve lift the piston is well down the bore. Couple of interesting video's from Mahle Motorsports on checking Piston to Valve clearance https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXzO9u93-n8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz7Fqo_oufU

Ooops.. I think my memory is fading. dave is likley correct. Maybe it was the Roadster Outers we were using. I'll check with some of my buddies at " The 510Realm " to see if there memory is better than mine. Just dug this up from the archives. Valve lift of the M445 is higher than I originally recall. There also may have been revisions made over the years. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=15931&start=15#p163338

Those square bore EFI throttle bodies are all a Holley 4150 DP base plate pattern. Phenolic carb spacers can be readily found at Summit Racing or Jeg's at reasonable prices.

Edit: Think I got the required Inner and Outer springs mixed up. Covered in Post #7. New factory Outer springs and new Roadster 2000 inners. The stock Z inners are the ones that will coil bind first. Roadster Inner springs ( 13204-25502 ) allow more lift and are a bit stiffer. Good to 7,000 RPM with a M445 Cam. Roadster springs are listed as NLA from USA dealers, but NOS 13204-25502 springs can still be found if you search hard enough.... or you can find an aftermarket equivalent. Have to check if my Canadian dealers can still get them direct from Japan. Don't forget to check retainer to valve seal clearance. I like to use lightweight " checking " springs. Basically just a compression spring that has a couple lbs rate. Just enough to hold valve closed. Check piston to Valve clearance as well. Pretty sure you won't need to machine any Valve reliefs with the M445... but you should always check. No need to twist an L-28 street motor past 7,000 RPM. Intake won't flow enough to make any more Power above approx 6,500. I have a Rev limiter set at 6,800 for when I Autocross and have to run to Redline in 2nd gear.

An N47 block and N47 head should be around 8.3 to 1 CR. At least you can run 87 Octane on that. May be a bit doggy on the low end. That cam is happier at 9.0 to 1 compression and more. F54 with FT pistons should give you around 10.3 CR. I have the same combo. Engine should really come alive with the M445 cam and higher CR.

You'll like the M445 from Shadbolt. One of their proven Classic grinds and good for just about any L-serie's for a Weekend warrior or Autocross car. L28 should pull hard to from about 3,500 to 7,000 with this cam. Can comfortably putt around at lower RPM's as well. Very, very popular grind in the PNW. Easy on valve train as well. Edit: New Stock Roadster Outer springs and Roadtser stock inners are all that are required for 7,000 RPM. You may have to trim the bottom of the retainer for seal clearance or run shorter seals. Lift is in the .0480" range if memory serves me correct. Will really wake up an L-28 without being too lumpy or a fuel pig. It's in the " GoldiLocks " zone Check with Shadbolt to see if they still re-surface rocker arms.

And in case you want a really different Power plant. Andy bought a bunch of Infinity IRL engines when Nissan abandoned Indy Racing.

Zredbaron.Have you thought about heading North? Specialty Engineering in Delta Bc is one of the top L-serie's race shops on the West Coast. Andy Pearson is the owner and is an incredible fabricator and engine builder. His cars and engines have won numerous SCCA National Championships and Runoffs and Nasport events. His dyno is constantly running L-series and he has specialised in Datsun engines and Chassis since the early 80's. One of his street 2.3 stroker L20b's recorded 178 rwhp on a Dynapak hub dyno at Brown Bros Ford. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26048&hilit=Dyno&start=270#p248210 Knowing Andy personally, the programs you wanted to run are his standard testing procedures. If any one can run accurate testing done the way YOU want.. it's Andy at Specialty Engineering. Would certainly be worth a call. Mention that " Chickenman " recommended you to them. http://www.specialtyengineering.ca/

Just checked the DIY site and they've update the Technical page regarding there DIY trigger wheel. They've now added the color coding to hook up from Dizzy to MS in the various versions. Here's the link to the updated wiring chart and Trigger setup page: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/

This is is the terminal orientation from Nissan. Used with Nissan 280ZXT trigger wheel or Z31 Trigger ( Crank Signal ) = Green Home ( Cam Signal ) = White +12volt = Red Sensor grounds ( 2 ) = Black Edit: Note: If you use the DIY wheel, the MegaSquirt software switches the wiring around for the Crank and Cam signal. Only the MS 3 with the latest firmware can use the Nissan Z31 trigger wheel. Check the MS forums on that. Hope this helps.

^ Slow boat from China... but the shipping is free. At least to Canada it is....

As a matter of fact I have some aluminium bungs coming from E-Bay. You will have to re-tap, but at under $4 a piece that should be no issue. I'll look up the links and get back to you. You'll also have to trim them to length in a Lathe... but again. No big deal. I ordered a couple of different sizes as thye were so cheap and I can use them for other things. Edit: Here's the 1/8 NPT bungs. Resize and Tap to 12mm x 1.5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300780558748 Here's the 1/4" NPT bungs. Resize and Tap to 12mm x 1.5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/300758706938

Go to the MegaSquirt forums. Join up as a member. You can download a base Map for your Turbo conversion there. You can use a 280ZX Turbo base*map. Make sure you download a STOCK base-map. Not one pushing 20+ lbs of boost!!! 1: Be VERY conservative with Ignition timing and Boost. Best to tune the car initially with zero boost or no more than 5 PSI max. Then add a little Boost and Fuel 2: Run a Wide Band O2 sensor. ALWAYS!! Aim for 11.0 to 11.5 AFR under boost to be safe. Be conservative on Ignition Timing. 3: Make sure your fueling is up to the task. That means properly sized injectors and a Higher Volume Fuel Pump. You do NOT wnat to run low on Fule volume and pressure on any Turbo motor. 4. Bench test your ECU and Software before installing it on the car. Get a 12VDC power supply, a used Computer ATX power supply is sufficient.( Or a 12 volt battery on a battery charger ). Hook up your ECU with the Harness and all sensors connected. You can do this in your workshop or living room floor. Install the software on your Tuning Laptop and play with things. Then you can actually see how to make Base Maps for fuel and Ignition curves. Find how to calibrate sensors. Generally get familiar with the software. You can even hook up injectors or NOID lights to test things. and a spare DIZZY 5: Buy the EFI Manual from DiyAutoTune. By Matt Cramer Jerry Hoffman . Two of the MegaSquirt guru's. Then buy more books on EFI Tuning. Before diving into the ocean... it's best to learn how to swim!!! 6: Consider joining High Performance Academy. A New Zealand company that specializes in teaching EFI Tuning. They have free Web-seminars that you can view online that explain how to tune EFI systems. They also have a FB page for EFI Tuners called Guild of EFI Tuners. Some fairly advanced stuff there, but worth lurking there a while and just absorb knowledge. https://www.hpacademy.com/

That's because they have no Coolant to measure temperature with. I think we may have a terminology confusion here. I believe you mean a Coolant Temperature Sensor for the ECU. That's the normal GM part you mention. And the 280Z CTS is located in the Thermostat Housing. You can use a 280Z lower thermostat housing and order the 12mm x 1.5 from GM. It will screw into the stock location for the Nissan CTS. The 280Z lower stat is rather hideous though and several of the threaded bungs won't be used. I'm switching mine out for an early 240Z lower stat housing PN 11061-P0300 ( still available new from Nissan ) . ECU CTS sensor will go on the side where the threaded fitting is for the water inlet nipple. However you do have to do a modification. You have to TIG weld an extension bung onto the side. There is not enough clearance between the Thermostat and the probe on the sensor. So you have to space the sensor out about 1/2". I believe that DIY only carries the 3/8 NPT GM CTS sensor, which is a bit bulky. Here is a picture of the later style 12mm x 1.5 GM CTS. I would recommend ordering a genuine Delphi or GM part as I've found many of the aftermarket brands ( Standard, Wells, BW ) have considerable variance from the GM resistance specifications. Delphi or original GM sensors may cost a bit more, but they are dead nuts on accuracy wise. The GM part number is 12608814. Delphi is TS10076

Send us a few clear pictures of the engine compartment. Especially on the Carb side. We might be able to spot something.

So many stories about indestructible L-Serie's. They really are hard to kill... even when you purposely try!!

^ That'll work. On second thought's, considering the amount of scale that you've found. I'd use the garden hose flush method first. Then run some HD Chemical Rad flush through the engine. Then repeat the garden hose flush a second time. Make sure that the heater temp switch is closed on the first hose blast. You don't want to plug it any worse with loose scale. Then turn the Heater core to full hot with the Chemical Rad Flush and second garden hose flush.

^ That's the method I used to use. Worked quite well. Especially after you ran a really strong flush agent through the engine. Edit: I just used a garden hose and a rag to seal the Radiator neck. Remove the thermostat top housing and stat. Then stuff hose down Rad filler, wrap a rag around it and turn water on full blast. When it starts coming out clear, reverse the setup. Hose into stat housing. Be prepared to replace both the radiator and possibly the heater core. Sometimes the scale and rust is the only thing keeping them from leaking. That's a lot of corrosion.

That looks like a pretty good curve. I like what you did with the low RPM numbers. Anti-Stall.

If the W/pump has a cast impeller and is not leaking, there is no reason to change it. Good idea to take it off and check it, but no need to change if it's still good. A new gasket is dirt cheap. On the other hand, if it has a cheap stamped steel impeller, then chuck it. Your plugged Rad is the likely culprit....

You can get the Cast impeller type from other sources. Do not buy a stamped steel impeller. Beck Arnley are good OEM brands. Often original Japanese manufacturer parts. Rock Auto usually carries them. Edit: Rock Auto has cast impeller style in stock. AISIN, which is an OEM supplier to Nissan $22.79. And Beck Arnley for $31.79. Both should be cast impellors and both are good quality. You could call Rock Auto and ask them to double check. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 Edit: Regarding MSA. They cannot get you their Premium W/Pump # 16-7021 which comes with a cast impeller according to their site? It's a pretty common part. Costs more than Rock Auto though. http://www.thezstore...ssic15t/16-7021