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Everything posted by Chickenman

  1. Bowl blending 101. One of the first things you do. Perfectly fine.
  2. Only marking on the back side of my Cam are the numbers 0650. It's an " A " Datsun core.
  3. No all new bespoke castings, but based on a Cannon Weber 45mm manifold I believe. It's all in the FB blog.
  4. No tricks done to the factory Fuel system, other than fine tuning the AFM with a 4 Gas analyser. The Factory ECU has a fairly rich WOT base Map. It can usually handle the increased Fuel flow. Anything additional you need could be handled with an Adjustable FPR. But I didn't need one. After setting WOT fuel Pressure you can dial the midrange in with fine Tuning on the AFM. All brand new CTS aetc. My car EFI system is like new. Even the wiring harness is in showroom condition. Bills Datsun Shoppe in Clackamas Oregon tuned the AFM and he has a lot of local L-28's running factory ECU's with Big Cams, headers exhaust etc. It all depends on what yo know. Helps if the ECU drifts a bit rich with age instead of a bit Lean. Like I said.
  5. Here's the link on FB in Church of L. Plus some pictures of the L-4 manifolds. https://www.facebook.com/groups/995586513795146/permalink/1826020180751771/
  6. BTW... the is an Option for an affordable ITB ( or Plenum ) setup from local fabricator that we are trying to get into production. Byron Meston does a lot of fabrication for the Datsun community up in BC. He just built a new Machine shop... but is waiting for three phase power. Here's the thing. He has been sitting on literally a Pile of L-4 EFI custom built IR manifolds for well over 5 years. They are beautiful works of machine. He a great fabricator... but not so good at marketing. When the local Z community found out about these we went nuts. Because he can make the same thing for L-6 engines. He's just been too busy with work, family, other projects and building his new shop. He's waiting availability of a 3 Phase power unit for th shop. I'll post up link later to his L-4 manifolds . Hop on the band wagon and pester him to put the L-6 version things into production.
  7. Almost the exact setup I have on my 280Z right now. L28, N47 head , F54 block with FT pistons. approx 10.5 CR. N42 Intake with 60mm Weber TB. MSA headers, 2.5" exhaust Cam is a bit of a Mystery. Engine builder was a bit secretive( don't know hwy ) . Was only told it was 280 degrees .480" lift. I've driven enough Z cars with the Shadbolt M445 to recognise it's characteristics Wel.. short story. Engine makes power like a SOB. Easily pulls HARD past 7,000 RPM. Had to put a Rev limiter on the danged thing. Surprisingly the stock ECU handles the large cam just fine, although I would suggest a true standalone ECU for it's adjustable, especially on a Race car. But starts on first turn of the key every morning. Warms up fine. stable idle at 1,000 rpm , even though it is a pretty lumpy camshaft. I'm sure the compression help there. Gas mileage is fine. No driveability issues. Engine is a rocket. haven't had a chance to put it on a Dyno... too busy enjoying the car. But other experienced Z owners are surprised at the Power it has. It's so good that I have a Haltech E11 sitting on the shelf for 3 years. I'm finally going to install it... because = I have it. But for day to day. It's not necessary. Now, I'm not suggesting that everyone is going to have the same luck with their ECU. Mine is a bit of a Unicorn and it's working amazingly well. The factory AFM is NOT affected by the lumpy idle, and if you look at how the factory AFM idle circuit works you will see why. Idle air goes through a the mixture bypass on the AFM. Falpper does not fluctuate. I've wtached it with intake hose off and engine idling. Only weak point of the factory AFM is that it Tops out at around 4,500 RPM. On my car I do get a bit of a lean sport between 4,500 to 5,500. After that the ECU is on the WOT MAP , and at least on my ECU, it is rich enough to handle the engine Mods. But like I said... my ECU may be a bit of a Unicorn. Any aftermarket ECU like aan MS2 would completely solve the fueling issue though. The N42 Intake Manifold. Yeah, the runners are small. ITB would make more power. But it's certainly not horrible. As I mentioned, my engine will spin HARD pat 7.000 rpm any day and evry day. And the mid range torque is awesome. It will do on a DD.
  8. I agree... Cam Timing looks OK. Definitely not off a Tooth by those photos. Did you physically confirm TDC using a Piston stop method, or just go buy the Damper Mark? Piston stop method is most accurate. #1 Piston at TDC has to be dead nuts on in this situation. That being said , I may however, have found some incorrect Ignition settings in the MSQ you sent me by E-mail.
  9. Actually I think the latest supersession on the L-series outer springs changes up to the Z31 springs. I'll have to double check that later.
  10. BTW.. car I was assisting was at a Dyno shop. Went from a sluggish 198 RWHP Max at @ 15 lbs Boost. To 315 RWHP on 13lbs Boost. Engine easily spun straight up to Rev Limiter at 6,500 RPM . On a Baseline Tune ( one of my own Tunes ).... straight out of the Box. Just by correcting Cam Timing. Much more HP to come. Way more ( GTX3076 ). But this was just an initial test at low boost on a " Safe Rich " baseline tune. But it made more than Dyno operator was expecting at low Boost and no Tuning
  11. That's really not all that big of a Cam. It should work fine with NEW factory valve springs. The low lift of the Shneider cams ( 0.460" ) makes it pretty easy on the valve train. Certainly a bit stiffer spring wouldn't hurt, especially on the Intake. .. but you don't need anything excessive. However, you may have a different problem. It is very possible that the Cam Timing is off by one Tooth. This will produce the exact symptoms you are describing. Engine hits an absolute wall at around 5,000 . Engine will just feel sluggish overall. It will build boost, but slower than usual and just doesn't want to accelerate like it should. I've had this exact problem on my Turbo Audi, and I just finished helping a customer who had a problem Big Turbo L-28 that just would not rev past 5,000 rpm. Engine was down on power and just seemed sluggish. Ran smooth... but way down on Power and wouldn't Rev. Data logs revealed the problem to me. . MAP values at idle on decel were not correct. Only two things can cause that. Huge Vacuum leak or incorrect Cam timing. Turns out the Cam had been installed 1 tooth retarded. Same problem on my own Audi when I had the Timing belt changed. I let a local shop change it... Well because = Audi. " The Four Rings of Pain " . Car just would not Rev. Built boost OK-ish ( a bit slower than normal ) , but way down on Power and just would not REV. I could hold it WOT in 2nd gear and it wouldn't go past 6,000 RPM/. Fixed Cam timing. Gained about 75 HP and engine revved to 7,200 RPM limiter. I've tuned many L-28's with Big Boost and stock Nissan Valve springs. New factory springs should easily Rev well past 6,500 RPM on that Cam. I've tuned local Turbo cars with T3/T4's with mild Turbo cams like you have and factory springs . The things were scary fast at only 10 and would ZING right past 6,500 no problem. My own car ( Normally Aspirated L28 10.5 CR ) has a larger Camshaft than what you have. On NEW Nissan stock springs it will happily spin well past 7,000. I've hit 7,200 a few times. Now have a Rev limiter on it to keep revs limited to 6,800 RPM I would double check your Cam Timing via FSM. It could very well be a Tooth off. If you have a Vacuum gauge, see what it reads on Decel. Just backing off normally or going down a hill, you should pull about 25 in/hg vacuum. If you are down around 20 in/hg ... you can be pretty sure that your Cam Timing is out. All other things veing checked of couse like Vacuum leaks and ignition Timing. But low Vacuum reading on Decel is a sure give away for incorrect Cam Timing. especially combined with the no revving past 5,000 RPM. You won't be floating the valve at 3,000 RPM on Decel.
  12. ^ Yep. That sound Logic-al
  13. And high current coil drivers ( ignitors ) also create EMI. Some more than others depending on design. Another reason to keep them out of the ECU box. Megasquirt seems to be one of the few Standalone manufacturers who put the High Current coil drivers ( BIP-373 ) inside the ECU case. Some builders add extra shielding around the BIP-373's or put them in an external enclosure. Especially if you use multiple BIP-373's. Probably the BIP-373 is on the low end of EMI emissions compared to other types of High Current coil drivers. I'm not sure. But off hand, I can't think of any other standalone ECU's that include internal High Current coil drivers. Most, if not all, use external Ignitor modules of some sort. Every OEM manufacturer does this as well.
  14. Anyone have experience with ITM valves? I scored a fantastic deal on a P79 head. All new bronze guides, all new valves. Head looks like it has just had a very, very light skim. This thing looks almost Virgin. But I'm worried about the valves. The valve stems appear to have a slight dimple effect to them. Very fine... but it's thee. Not the mirror smooth finish that you normally get on factory valves. Brand is unknown. They do not appear have a Chrome finish like the factory valves. ITM valves are a reasonable price. I believe that is what my engine builder used when he re-built my engine in 2014. Heads looked a bit bulky. But I didn't get a good look at the stems.
  15. Haa Haa . Just had a big argument on Guild Of EFI Tuners on why a simple MBC can sometimes be the easiest solution to Boost control on a DD. Big arguments that B&S MBC is archaic, didn't have Boost taper, Boost per gear, Traction management etc. Millennials couldn't grasp the fact that not everything has to be electronic. OP was fighting a Boost curve that wouldn't stay linear with his MS2 Boost management ( MS3 Boost management is much more sophisticated than MS2 ) I suggested a simple B&S MBC as that would be more than sufficient for HIS needs. Man you should have heard the whining and bitching from the Internet coaches.
  16. Check with WilWood. There is a recall on some of their MC 's. https://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Recalls/RDCONL-17E030-0986.pdf Recall was on 7/8" tandem cylinders, but I've heard reports of some of the 1" cylinders failing as well. Happened to my buddies Camaro with a WilWood 1" Polished MC.
  17. Are these available to fit the D585 Yukon Truck coils?
  18. Modern combustion shapes that are not detonation prone and cooling of head really affect this. I do know that some of the 510 crowd are running really big compression with AV gas or racing Fuel ( VP C16 ) . E85 would work as well. Example 1: Turbo 2.1 Liter 510 with 10.3 CR on 16 lbs boost making 300 RWHP. Track day, Autocross and Hillclimb car. Can be driven on street. Water/Meth injection . Owner brews his own street fuel in garage for cruises!!! Not the safest or most practical option. No E85 here. VP C16 for track. Carburated!! But very well sorted. Example 2: Local 240 Z on low compression . L28 all the tricks including big intercooler and C16 Race fuel, but can run on pump gas with reduced Boost and Water/Meth. Makes 450 RWHP. Can't remember exact boost, but I think it was around 15 lbs. MS2 ECU.
  19. It would be fairly rare for a L-series to skip a Tooth. On the chain. Particularly on a fairly new engine with only 18K on the chain. I think there are other issues going on here.
  20. You're welcome Derek. We cam work on the rest of the Tune a bit later.
  21. I don't give a F**k what MSD advertises. The engineering papers on this coil and field experience from knowledgeable racers who have run this coil on Inductive say otherwise. And I ran it on my 1976 280 Z . Have you ever run one one. have you ever run a MS ECU or tuned one? Stick to things you know about ZH. You are clueless on this subject. BTW... for newbies to this Forum. ZH likes to Troll my posts. Don't feed the Troll.
  22. 1: Remove the condenser. Not needed with Ms and could be causing an issue. 2: Plug gap .041" is way to large on a Turbo engine. I suspect you bought NGK plugs with a -11 as a suffix. Such as BPR7ES-11 Those are wide gaps. Get the Iridium or regular Copper core NGK plugs with no suffix. Such as BPR6ES or BPR7ES ( 7 is a colder heat range ) . The NGK plugs with no suffix come pregapped to .031". Gap them down to .028" if your Boost is higher than about 8 psi. The Wide gap plugs cannot be gapped down to .028" without putting a weird angle on the side electrode that will wear excessively fast. 3: I'll look at your .msq later this morning. Have a Remote Tuning session scheduled.
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