Chickenman

That's really not all that big of a Cam. It should work fine with NEW factory valve springs. The low lift of the Shneider cams ( 0.460" ) makes it pretty easy on the valve train. Certainly a bit stiffer spring wouldn't hurt, especially on the Intake. .. but you don't need anything excessive. However, you may have a different problem. It is very possible that the Cam Timing is off by one Tooth. This will produce the exact symptoms you are describing. Engine hits an absolute wall at around 5,000 . Engine will just feel sluggish overall. It will build boost, but slower than usual and just doesn't want to accelerate like it should. I've had this exact problem on my Turbo Audi, and I just finished helping a customer who had a problem Big Turbo L-28 that just would not rev past 5,000 rpm. Engine was down on power and just seemed sluggish. Ran smooth... but way down on Power and wouldn't Rev. Data logs revealed the problem to me. . MAP values at idle on decel were not correct. Only two things can cause that. Huge Vacuum leak or incorrect Cam timing. Turns out the Cam had been installed 1 tooth retarded. Same problem on my own Audi when I had the Timing belt changed. I let a local shop change it... Well because = Audi. " The Four Rings of Pain " . Car just would not Rev. Built boost OK-ish ( a bit slower than normal ) , but way down on Power and just would not REV. I could hold it WOT in 2nd gear and it wouldn't go past 6,000 RPM/. Fixed Cam timing. Gained about 75 HP and engine revved to 7,200 RPM limiter. I've tuned many L-28's with Big Boost and stock Nissan Valve springs. New factory springs should easily Rev well past 6,500 RPM on that Cam. I've tuned local Turbo cars with T3/T4's with mild Turbo cams like you have and factory springs . The things were scary fast at only 10 and would ZING right past 6,500 no problem. My own car ( Normally Aspirated L28 10.5 CR ) has a larger Camshaft than what you have. On NEW Nissan stock springs it will happily spin well past 7,000. I've hit 7,200 a few times. Now have a Rev limiter on it to keep revs limited to 6,800 RPM I would double check your Cam Timing via FSM. It could very well be a Tooth off. If you have a Vacuum gauge, see what it reads on Decel. Just backing off normally or going down a hill, you should pull about 25 in/hg vacuum. If you are down around 20 in/hg ... you can be pretty sure that your Cam Timing is out. All other things veing checked of couse like Vacuum leaks and ignition Timing. But low Vacuum reading on Decel is a sure give away for incorrect Cam Timing. especially combined with the no revving past 5,000 RPM. You won't be floating the valve at 3,000 RPM on Decel.

^ Yep. That sound Logic-al

And high current coil drivers ( ignitors ) also create EMI. Some more than others depending on design. Another reason to keep them out of the ECU box. Megasquirt seems to be one of the few Standalone manufacturers who put the High Current coil drivers ( BIP-373 ) inside the ECU case. Some builders add extra shielding around the BIP-373's or put them in an external enclosure. Especially if you use multiple BIP-373's. Probably the BIP-373 is on the low end of EMI emissions compared to other types of High Current coil drivers. I'm not sure. But off hand, I can't think of any other standalone ECU's that include internal High Current coil drivers. Most, if not all, use external Ignitor modules of some sort. Every OEM manufacturer does this as well.

Anyone have experience with ITM valves? I scored a fantastic deal on a P79 head. All new bronze guides, all new valves. Head looks like it has just had a very, very light skim. This thing looks almost Virgin. But I'm worried about the valves. The valve stems appear to have a slight dimple effect to them. Very fine... but it's thee. Not the mirror smooth finish that you normally get on factory valves. Brand is unknown. They do not appear have a Chrome finish like the factory valves. ITM valves are a reasonable price. I believe that is what my engine builder used when he re-built my engine in 2014. Heads looked a bit bulky. But I didn't get a good look at the stems.

Haa Haa . Just had a big argument on Guild Of EFI Tuners on why a simple MBC can sometimes be the easiest solution to Boost control on a DD. Big arguments that B&S MBC is archaic, didn't have Boost taper, Boost per gear, Traction management etc. Millennials couldn't grasp the fact that not everything has to be electronic. OP was fighting a Boost curve that wouldn't stay linear with his MS2 Boost management ( MS3 Boost management is much more sophisticated than MS2 ) I suggested a simple B&S MBC as that would be more than sufficient for HIS needs. Man you should have heard the whining and bitching from the Internet coaches.

Check with WilWood. There is a recall on some of their MC 's. https://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Recalls/RDCONL-17E030-0986.pdf Recall was on 7/8" tandem cylinders, but I've heard reports of some of the 1" cylinders failing as well. Happened to my buddies Camaro with a WilWood 1" Polished MC.

Are these available to fit the D585 Yukon Truck coils?

Modern combustion shapes that are not detonation prone and cooling of head really affect this. I do know that some of the 510 crowd are running really big compression with AV gas or racing Fuel ( VP C16 ) . E85 would work as well. Example 1: Turbo 2.1 Liter 510 with 10.3 CR on 16 lbs boost making 300 RWHP. Track day, Autocross and Hillclimb car. Can be driven on street. Water/Meth injection . Owner brews his own street fuel in garage for cruises!!! Not the safest or most practical option. No E85 here. VP C16 for track. Carburated!! But very well sorted. Example 2: Local 240 Z on low compression . L28 all the tricks including big intercooler and C16 Race fuel, but can run on pump gas with reduced Boost and Water/Meth. Makes 450 RWHP. Can't remember exact boost, but I think it was around 15 lbs. MS2 ECU.

It would be fairly rare for a L-series to skip a Tooth. On the chain. Particularly on a fairly new engine with only 18K on the chain. I think there are other issues going on here.

PM sent. Help is on the way.

You're welcome Derek. We cam work on the rest of the Tune a bit later.

I don't give a F**k what MSD advertises. The engineering papers on this coil and field experience from knowledgeable racers who have run this coil on Inductive say otherwise. And I ran it on my 1976 280 Z . Have you ever run one one. have you ever run a MS ECU or tuned one? Stick to things you know about ZH. You are clueless on this subject. BTW... for newbies to this Forum. ZH likes to Troll my posts. Don't feed the Troll.

1: Remove the condenser. Not needed with Ms and could be causing an issue. 2: Plug gap .041" is way to large on a Turbo engine. I suspect you bought NGK plugs with a -11 as a suffix. Such as BPR7ES-11 Those are wide gaps. Get the Iridium or regular Copper core NGK plugs with no suffix. Such as BPR6ES or BPR7ES ( 7 is a colder heat range ) . The NGK plugs with no suffix come pregapped to .031". Gap them down to .028" if your Boost is higher than about 8 psi. The Wide gap plugs cannot be gapped down to .028" without putting a weird angle on the side electrode that will wear excessively fast. 3: I'll look at your .msq later this morning. Have a Remote Tuning session scheduled.

Grounding is also very important . Particularly with a Nissan Optical distributor. The MS ECU main ground should be grounded on the Intake manifold. As per MS Extra instructions. The factory ground point on the Intake manifold is ideal. Do NOT ground the ECU to the Chassis or worse to the Battery negative terminal. The starter can pull over 150 amps when cranking and this can induce enough voltage in the ECU ground wire to feedback and disrupt or even damage the Microprocessor. The ground wire on the 4 prong plug should go back to the ECU sensor grounds. Then add an additional ground wire from the distributor body directly to the Intake manifold. And make sure that there is a good ground connected from the engine to the Chassis grounding stud on the Firewall.

A very good Coil that matches with the BIP373 drivers is the AllStar 81230 E-Core coil. AllStar is a large supplier to Circle Track racers. Very reasonable price and this coil will pack a wallop!! Set nominal dwell to 4.0ms . Available at Summit, Jegs, Amazon. Justs about anyplace. Make sure your Primary wiring to the coil positive and negative are large enough. 14 gauge minimum

PS: What new condenser are you referring to? There is no condenser used on the 280Z distributor. At least not like on a points system.

What precisely is your Coil make and model? What plug wires are you running? What plugs and plug Gap are you running. Next post up your CurrentTune.msq and I'll have a look at it. You probably do not have the dwell times matched to the coil. Certain coils, like an MSD Blaster 2 require a LOT of dwell. The MSD Blaster 2 is a poor choice for an inductive ignition. They are designed for a CDI ignition and just don't have the correct properties to work well with an inductive ignition. The stock Nissan 280Z coil will put out more sparkenrgy than an MSD Blaster 2 coil,, unless you really crank up the dwell to the MSD coil. It is a very slow saturation coil when used on Inductive ignitions.

Bosch makes a PW controlled IAC that looks to be easier to set up than many stepper motors. Used on early 90's golfs. They run any where from $35 to $100 on E-Bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-IAC-Speed-Stabilizer-VW-Volkswagen-Jetta-Golf-EuroVan-/351773015388

Well... seems the Needles and seats aren't sealing. Now you have to find the cause. Either some trash in the N&S, N&S gummed up or possible floats are " Heavy ". Nitryl floats can absorb gas with age and sometimes Brass floats get pinholes in them. Usually at solder seams. Checking float level may not uncover a " heavy " float or a slightly leaking N&S. Only way to teall is to weigh the floats with an accurate scale. Brass floats you can hear the gas sloshing about inside.

Awe shucks .. Thanks so much Raphael. I really enjoy helping others Tune their cars. And it keeps my Brain from turning into complete mush... LOL

Answered in other thread. Simple answer is MS2 3.57 for you!!! IMHO of course...

Just buy a regular MS 2 from DIY or a Local builder like Softopz. . I prefer the 3.57 board as it is all surface mount technology ( Robot soldering ) . Less chance for human error. Mega Squirt 2 has two high current Injector drivers built in that use Pulse Width Current Limiting. So you can drive low-impedance injectors without dropping resistors. The MS2 is compatible with the Ford EDIS ignition system. Just mention to the Vendor that you want to run EDIS just to make sure it is jumpered and built correctly. I assume the Chrysler coil is a Triple Coil pack running Waste Spark. Is that why you want to run EDIS? The MS2 3.57 board will do everything that you want. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu/

I corrected the link to the 510Realm CV Clunk thread. This should work now: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=29907

Stev. Too bad The510realm is still down. The thread there on CV Conversion problems is excellent. Hopefully the site is back soon. I'll PM you with the consensus of the group. Jim... I was going to Knox. Not sure now. Hotels should be dirt cheap. Because the Highways in BC will be empty. No one can afford to drive to Vacation spots in BC anymore.

Z240... is that you Jim? Edit: Why yes it is. Still going to Knox? Bring a Tanker with some cheap Alberta fuel. You could make a killing. Frackin' stoopid NDP!!! $1.58.9 a liter for regular and still going up. $1.71.9 for 91 Octane. That's $6.88 per US Gallon for our USA friends. End Rant. Back on Topic.