Chickenman

Would have been nice if the exhaust manifold came with a V-Band adapter. Would open up options for W/gate clocking. This is what I was thinking about for a 90 degree adapter. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-025&Category_Code=WGEL Or is you want to switch to a V-Band mount W/Gate. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-101&Category_Code=WGEL

Yeah... I can already see what is probably the Major problem. The manifold design. That is a worst case scenario for W/Gate placement on both the W/G inlet and outlet. Inlet is 90 degrees and only bleeds 3 cylinders, if that. The manifold looks like it's possibly a Twin scroll design. Is it? Either way, it;s going to be hard to bleed off enough pressure with that exhaust manifold W/Gate positioning. On the outlet side it is worst case scenario as well. 90 degree exit into the high pressure area of the Turbine outlet. If you could re-route the Dump pipe, that would help a lot. Length doesn't really matter. You could route it another 2 or 3 feet further along the exhaust system, then blend it in at a nice angle. Problem is just getting it past firewall. With a long W/Gate dump pipe, you may want to run an accordion style expanding bellows, as the dump pipe will expand in length a fair bit. Things like ovalised SS tubing may help. Or using a 90 degree adapter, so W/Gate exit is towards firewall, then run dump pipe behind exhaust manifold, beside the downpipe and Transmission? It looks like you may have enough room to do that?

Look up Softopz on the Vendors forum. He builds MS2 units and a beautiful plug and play harness.

Can you post up a wide angle shot of your W/gate manifold and exhaust setup? Proper angles of W/Gate inlet pipes and outlet pipes can make a huge difference to W/gate efficiency as noted above. Right angles and reverse angles are bad.

Before you buy anything else. Try putting a lighter Wastegate spring in. The 9.4 lb spring may not be allowing the W/G poppet valve to open 100%. Try a spring combo with a 7 lbs rate. You can go all the way down to a 3 lbs if you need to. If you have any restrictions to W/Gate flow ( bad entry angles for example ) then you may have to use a lighter spring combo than necessary to get the Valve opening more. Simply because the exhaust flow to the W/Gate is not optimal. W/Gate positioning and entry angles for exhaust play a big part in controlling Boost. Get them wrong and the W/Gate will be inefficient

Pretty sure they use the BIP373 coil driver.

There's a thread on that Coil Pack on the MSExtra MS2 forum. I'll have to dig around a bit to find the link. You may be better of with WS Dodge ( Mitsubishi brand ) coils or the Ford Escort TFI Coil Packs. Very powerful coil packs.

Wow... Desktop Dyno... I haven't played with that in ages. It worked out well when choosing cams for my Autocross/ Hillclimb 355ci SBC. I think my latest version is Desktop Dyno 2000. I'll have to see if I can load it up on my Windows 7 machine.

Wow... that's an old Unit. I thought my E11-V1 was old. Attach your current Tune and setup to a reply here and I can have a look at it with HalWin.

Well... I can't answer the second question. But yes the Rotor is held on with a small Metric screw. It's a Phillips head and I think it's an M5 if memory serves me correct.

Kinda wondering why you didn't go with a T3/T4 Hybrid? T4 compressor with T3 exhaust housing. That's a pretty standard setup. T4 exhaust housing may be pretty laggy....

This is the way it should be done. T3 to T4 adapter

Hmmmm... I just don't see how that the Turbo flange gasket is going to seal with those Allen head bolts recessed like that. The gasket is going to blow out on that thin little sealing edge left on the outside of the Allen head bolts. Good luck, but I don't think that will work very well???

With the Turbo dizzy and shaft, you do not need either of those parts. The Turbo dizzy bolts directly to the timing cover. Make sure you have the gasket that goes between the dizzy and timing cover. Latest part number from Nissan is 22179-29N00. A new non -Nissan gasket came with my A1-Cardone distributor.

Shane... we may have to alter the Battery Voltage correction to keep your AFR's more consistent. This is where a big 80 or 90 Amp small frame Alternator has an advantage. An 90 Amp Maxima alternator will crank out 51 amps at 1,000 RPM. The old 70 Amp IR 280Z and ZX alternators can't do that. 60 Amps just won't cut it with Electric Fans and EFI. Most newer style alternators ( since the mid to late 80's ) are a lot more efficient and really pump out the Amps at low RPM's. I absolutely wouldn't consider anything less than 80 amps with EFI and decent electric fans ( 2,500 CFM plus ) .

Ball Bearing Turbo's spool so fast these days you can kiss Turbo Lag goodbye. A GT2871R will spool stoopid fast and should be close to the Power you want. Quite a few Autocrossers and Hill climbers out West use GT2871R and there is no boost Lag, Those are mainly 2.0 liter to 2.4 liter though. For over 3.0 liters you may want to look at a GT3071R, GTX3071R Gen -11 or a GTX2867 R Gen-II. Lots of choices from Garret and Borg Warner.

Not your fault. The text info from DIY is correct. It's just that my picture was for the standard Nissan wiring.... and it's now in Google search!! Could be misleading... If you just want simple Batch fire and a single coil. It will work fine for that. It's just if some people want Waste Spark, COP Ignition or Sequential fueling then they need the other Cam signal. Most people don't know about DIY flipping slot orientation, which also means flipping the Green and White LED output wires on the dizzy side to match the MS ECU inputs. My picture shows the factory Nissan outputs and colors on the dizzy side, which is what Haltech uses.

^ Ha Ha ha ... That's my Picture of my personal distributor. Please note the above colors in the picture of my Dizzy are set up for a Haltech. With the DIY L28 Trigger wheel they flip the orientation of the slots from how Nissan originally had it. That flips the functions of the LED's reading the Trigger disk as well. On an MS2 with DIY L28 custom Trigger Wheel, the colors would be. Dizzy side Red = +12v Black = Ground ( To sensor ground in MS ECU ) Green = Cam Trigger ( If you want to use Full sequential Fuel or COP Ignition ) White = Crank Trigger Edit: Also note that the above link ( https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ ) is OLD information. That article was written long before DIY made their Custom L28 Trigger wheel. The above instructions were written by " MobyTheVan " I believe, and were a work around for L28 Optical dizzy's because the MS1 and MS2 could not decode the Nissan 360 slot wheel accurately. Note that the above instructions only give you a Basic Trigger system. You need the Cam Trigger to run COP or Full sequential. Unfortunately the MS sites are full of old outdated articles. You have to be very careful what you are reading. That's what happens when you have a platform that has multiple ways of being built and Software covering Multiple ECU's.

Yep. That is the correct distributor. Be careful with the Optical Trigger disk. It can be installed upside down and that will mess you up. DIYAutoTuning has pictures of the correct way to install it. Rotor phasing is a step that a lot of people miss, and it is quite important. Here are some instructions and a Picture to help.

^ That looks a lot safer than drilling holes and creasting stress risers. You're actually removing stress risers by polishing. Not that I've ever seen a stock Nissan rocker break in two. The " Forge " be strong with these.

I'd be worried about stress risers from those drilled holes. How many RPM's are you planning on turning with this engine?

The factory used a combination of both as Colten noted. On race cars I switched everything out to studs, as we often had the Intake manifolds off and on. Made the install faster, plus less danger of pulling a thread out of the aluminium. Even the thermostat upper housing had studs. This was after a certain Ham fisted friend/crew managed to over tighten and strip the threads out of the lower thermostat housing. Doh!!! I worked at a Nissan dealership Parts Dept so had plenty of access to high grade Nissan studs. In fact I always made sure that we had lots of the " special " hardware like half-shaft bolts and nuts. It was funny, but the local Metro Vancouver Nissan dealers always had the best supply of high grade fasteners in stock . A lot of the Parts and Service staff Road Raced at WestWood. Most of the shops used Bowman fasteners for their " Standard Fastener" shop supply. I always made sure that the Road salesman always loaded us up on nothing less than the Metric equivalent of Grade 8 or better.

I got mine from Rock Auto. A1- Cardone. Was a reasonable price at the time. Do spend some time checking it over. I found the trigger disc was rubbing on the CAS LED. Assembly error from manufacturer. They often use the later Maxima CAS in the 280ZX dizzy. The Maxima CAS has two plastic alignment " Tit's " on the bottom that have to be filed off, so that the Module sits flat on the mounting pad. Also, on the 280ZX dizzy, the 3 mounting screws fro the CAS go in from the top and thread into the dizzy housing. So the 280ZX CAS module has smooth holes in the CAS body and threads in the dizzy body. The Maxima CAS is slightly different. It has threaded " Bosses " in the CAS body and the screws come up from the bottom. Through unthreaded holes in the Maxima dizzy body. When you combine the Maxima CAS with the 280ZX dizzy body, you have two sets of threaded holes. In the CAS module itself and in the 280ZX dizzy body. This doesn't screw together very well. What I did was drill the threads out in the bottom of the 280ZX dizzy. Then I installed the 3 mounting screws from the bottom of the 280zx dizzy housing and into the threaded bosses in the Maxima CAS. That worked perfect. Something to check with Re-man dizzys;.

Engine block ground is OK. Just as long as it is a reasonable distance ( 12 inches??? ) away from Starter motor. Starter motor produces a huge amount of EMI when cranking. You don't want a sensitive ECU ground close by. Starter will also induce electrical Eddy currents in the engine block close to the starter. These dissipate with distance.

BTW. I just e-mailed Shane Rice ( Op ) and he confirmed that he has indeed switched his ECU ground from the Chassis to the Intake Manifold. Stock Nissan grounding location. So all is good in that respect. I was remote tuning for Shane so this is all relevant to me. And I know some inside details on the setup. The tune worked very well according to Shane. FWIW. The AFR gauge difference all just a calibration issue with the Innovate WB controller. It's not a big issue and is a common problem with Innovate products. Personally, I have personally seen and read about too many issues with Innovate products and would never use one of their products. Innovate apparently shut down there User Support Forums in late 2016. To many negative comments. Is that lame or what?