Chickenman

PM sent with contact info. LMK here if you don't receive the PM.

Got in late last night. PM sent. Will repeat with E-Mail.

Taaron. Your PM doesn't seem to work. Trying to leave you some info. Can you give me a PM?

Buy the Paid version of Tuner Studio right off the bat. You need the Auto-Tune feature that comes with the Paid version of TS. Just the regular paid version is good enough. You should also buy the Paid version of Mega Log Viewer. The standard versions is fine. Both programs are good for 3 different computers. I have MLV Hd installed on my computer. It's got a few extra Bells and Whistles, not really needed by the average user.

Patience... lots and lots of patience. One thing I would advise is downloading the reading the Manuals from MSExtra.com . Use the information on there. It is more up to date than the info on DIYAutoTune. Much of the DIY info is archived and outdated. MS-Extra does all the development of Firmware now ( since about 2006 actually ) The MSExtra Hardware manuals are the most important and accurate. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ I'd also recommend buying the Book on EFI Tuning from DIYAutoTune. Written by Matt Cramer and Jerry Hoffman it is an excellant guide for Tuning standalone EFI systems. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/performance-fuel-injection-systems-hp-books/

Don't have a Dyno, but I do Remote Tuning for MS and Datsuns. Very familiar with both and have tuned quite a few NA and Turbo L28's on Hybrid-Z, Classic-Z and Church of L-series. My fee's are very reasonable and I can get you a very good baseline Tune that is Safe and reliable. For maximum power I always recommend a Professional Dyno operator. Preferably with some Det cans to listen for Detonation. Load cell Dyno preferred. But I can save you a considerable amount od Dyno time and $$$ by setting up a good Baseline tune from the get go. Plus it is a great learning experience for you as you can follow along on your Laptop as we dial the Tune in. One very reasonable Flat Rate price and I offer free after support with Data-Log analysis and Tune revisions. By the time we are finished, the only thing you should need a Dyno for is Maximum effort Full Boost runs. I always leave my Boosted Tunes a bit on the conservative side for safety. There are certain limits to remote tuning. I'll PM you details

If I was planning on using this car for Track days or even Autocross, I would likely go with Koni's on all four corners. But for now the KYB's in the rear will suffice. The rear has good grip and compinace for Canyon Carving. I like a suspension that will soak up bumps. A slightly softer suspension is also more forgiving in the rain. We seem to get more than our fair share in the PNW... Sigh.

Chinkenman??? LOL

Actually, it was the whole Tune that was just not very good. I did a Remote Tuning session with Brett and built him a new Tune from scratch . It's running fine now. There is a problem with noise on the Coolant sensor, but we are addressing that. Idle issue was actually due to very poor VE and Spark Maps. Large jumps between adjacent RPM and Kpa cells were one of the big issues. There is no Sync loss now with new Tune. Another happy Customer

Good idea with the Cell phone Camera. It sounds most like a dry U-joint to me. When you reverse, the U-joint loads the needles and cages in a different direction. It can make this creaking noise. If the U-joints have grease nipples. Add some grease and see if noise goes away.

Yes, you can use the original Nissan Clt sensor. Since there is no calibration setting for a Nissan CLT sensor in the Tune Studio selections, use the Saab. settings. It is very close to the factory Nissan. Or you can look up the 280ZX sensor values in the factory service manual ( available online at Xenon. com ). But the Saab values are close enough.

No. I'm not running the same shocks in the rear... at this point. Fronts coil overs are using 1988 MR2 rears Koni sport. 250 lb/in front springs. Rears I like having a bit softer for touring comfort. So rears will be the Eibach Pro springs ( whatever rate they are ) with KYB's in the back. I'll use the front spring isolators on the rear to lower it another 1". Next season I may look at going with Coil Overs with Koni' Sports or Bilsteins in the back. Probably go 225 lb/in at the rear. I quite like the combo of Koni's up front and Bilsteins in the rear. I use that setup on my Audi and it works nicely. The Bilsteins seem to be more compliant than Koni sports, so you don't get a jiggly ride over Freeway expansion joints. I like the front a bit stiffer on Z cars than the rear for the street. Getting old I guess......

Andy Whittle has top notch Video's.

I'll PM you. I'm not surprised that Tune is not working. Tune is not even even remotely close to what that engine needs. Lots of basic settings totally screwed up.

More details on your setup please. Are you running an IAC valve? Post your MSQ so we can have a look at it. I have done Remote Tuning for several member on Hybrid Z and Classic Z. I believe all have been satisfied with the results so far.

SJ. Did you try a lighter W/Gate spring? Did it make any difference?

Hussein. Been through this with SJ already. Precision Turbo instructions only list setup for a Bleed style MBC. SJ is using a Ball and Spring MBC which operates entirely different. B&S style has to be plumbed to lower housing with top vent to Atmo. Not the same deal as an EBC or Bleed Style manual Boost controller. He was getting no Boost control at all following Precision instructions. After proper setup, he has Boost control. He just has a creep problem. That's due to bad W/gate inlet and exhaust design, IMHO.

Those external speed controls are great. I bought one for all of my corded tools. E-Bay.

I used some spare Tokico gland nuts. There is a thick washer that is welded to the inside of the gland nut. This locates the Top of the shock. The Koni shock is a bit larger diameter at the Top. But 5 minutes on the Lathe and Badda Bing.... Tokico gland nuts that fit Koni's.

That's a good grinder. It will pay for itself the first time you use it. Tools are always a good investment.

For porting you will need more than a Dremel. I use a 1/5 HP , 20,000 RPM Craftsman electric grinder. The good ol' Model 315 with 1/4" shank and Ball Bearings. And a lovely all metal housing that will try to electrocute you when you plug it into an improperly grounded wall socket. Ask me how I know... Air grinder will also work, but you need a decent size compressor to feed them. 1/4" shank Carbide cutter and HD grinder would be the way to go. If the hole size out of the Manifold is only 35mm, then that does need to be enlarged. Dump pipe re-routing is definitely necessary. You could do a screamer pipe straight out of the side of the fender. Just like Street Outlaws... LOL

Another Option may be to change Turbine housing for one with Internal W/Gate. That gets rid of external Dump pipe and fitment issues. Last resort type thing. Just thinking....

One other thing. Don't over look porting of the exhaust manifold W/Gate outlet. This is commonly done on Internal wastegates, but the same principle can be applied to the Manifold port for an external Wastegate. You can port to gasket size and do some blending of sharp lips to aid flow. Every little bit helps.

Would have been nice if the exhaust manifold came with a V-Band adapter. Would open up options for W/gate clocking. This is what I was thinking about for a 90 degree adapter. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-025&Category_Code=WGEL Or is you want to switch to a V-Band mount W/Gate. https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-101&Category_Code=WGEL

Yeah... I can already see what is probably the Major problem. The manifold design. That is a worst case scenario for W/Gate placement on both the W/G inlet and outlet. Inlet is 90 degrees and only bleeds 3 cylinders, if that. The manifold looks like it's possibly a Twin scroll design. Is it? Either way, it;s going to be hard to bleed off enough pressure with that exhaust manifold W/Gate positioning. On the outlet side it is worst case scenario as well. 90 degree exit into the high pressure area of the Turbine outlet. If you could re-route the Dump pipe, that would help a lot. Length doesn't really matter. You could route it another 2 or 3 feet further along the exhaust system, then blend it in at a nice angle. Problem is just getting it past firewall. With a long W/Gate dump pipe, you may want to run an accordion style expanding bellows, as the dump pipe will expand in length a fair bit. Things like ovalised SS tubing may help. Or using a 90 degree adapter, so W/Gate exit is towards firewall, then run dump pipe behind exhaust manifold, beside the downpipe and Transmission? It looks like you may have enough room to do that?