fl327

tpi intakes dont like NA revving over 5k, they were meant for low rpm use. a nice twin turbo setup to shift at around that time could make 450 i think, but they really dont flow that well.

the turbo flywheel is 240mm and the stock clutch for it is a nice heavy duty unit from the factory, in a light car it should do ok i think. i run a 225mm flywheel and clutch, and its holding up great. i hear good things about ACT and EXEDY clutches, and ive heard ACT is really an EXEDY clutch with a yellow pressure plate and markup. the 240mm clutch and flywheel is cool if you already have it, but if you dont, i dont think you will have a problem with the smaller setup if you get a clutch rated for whatever torque and hp goals you have in mind from ACT, EXEDY, or whoever. I run a custom clutch from my man downtown, i painted his chevelle for him for player price and in turn, i get these really good looking clutches that hit psychotically for almost nothing, well, i trade the man his bad habit and some cash for awesome clutch setups. I love this game...

the rears are pretty easy to do in the car, which is one more thing i love about my car, ive dropped the trans and the diff twice-and havent had to drop the exhaust

i think you would sell a buttload more downpipes if you could get them made out of a cheaper material than stainless steel. a lot of us are willing to accept a pipe that will show corrosion and will rust, as long as we can junk that 90 bend off the turbo we have to work with for now. i would be willing to buy a nice aluminized steel downpipe and do understand the costs involved in providing such a nice downpipe as you are. just my thoughts.

the oem bracket houses the ignition transistor that gets its ground from the bracket bolts. not having this might mean coil isnt getting the go ahead from teh ecu and vice versa.

who pissed in your cool aid? for the price, show me the intercooler thats better, really. yes we all know Spearco and those apexi monster cores are gonna flow better, can those be had for 200 in general?

i run 10w-40 syntec, just burned a qt of it the first 1000 miles, but im leaking some as well from somewhere, but i like it. 1000 more to go and then we'll see what oil to gowith i guess.

any of them are overkill for a 2.8

whenever my buddies watch your movies, they keep telling me, "thats why i wont do a v8z, they cant put the power down" cant wait to see the flares.

ka24s are really cheap, since most 240sx guys are throwing them away for sr20dets, i see motor and trans going for like 150 sometimes, i know two guys that just gave theirs away, thats a pro i think, a motor thats cheaper than an L motor, and thats CHEAP.

z cars are infamous for battery drain issues, mine will start losign charge if i dont drive it at least two days a week maybe more, when i am not going to drive it for a few days i unplugg the battery.

man ive had about 7 z cars now, and the ones with heater cores always went out on me, and the others came with no heater, man i bypassed mine just because!

definitely, a pumped 700r4 behind one of those monsters would rip. but theres just something so evil about the man who knows this.... and goes with a manual anyways

moths to a flame.

whoa thats a good link. yeah man, i tried it and its barely off i mean i could drill it and make it work but it would be a rig. i get good deals on RB motors now and its looking mroe and more like a possiblilty, i would love to stick a T56 behind one of those bad boys and let em know.. thats for sure. but for now, my L motor is earning its keep and the smiles dont stop on my side of town. very very nice though. thanx stony.

tried it the other day, its very close, but no cigar, im not the guy who makes custom stuff like this, but it wouldnt be hard to do it, BTW, we tried this with a rb25.

yes they are rare, i wish they were also WIDE.

they only came on the 81 turbo zxt

did you test the battery? if lower than 9v crankign power, my car wont start.

when a link goes, you generally lose power to the key on position, which means the ecu will not fire and ignition wont get power, heres a weird one, nissan wired the links up so that the radio dies when a link goes, the efi link that is. i had this problem in my car and traced it back to a faulty fusible link, i also had bad battery leads too, when the link would go otu, my radio would go out too, but the lights would still be on, i just made another link, and it was good to go.

do it. a two bolt is fine unless you start spraying on it and holding 6500 for extended periods of time at the same time. if you know its built like that and the guy selling it is for real, sounds like a good way to go fast.

it wont work i dont think. zcar.com, you can get a good used diz for cheap.

i know what you mean Norm. i know what you mean. im sick of laying under the car on a saturday night bench pressing diffs and trannies into my car, retorquing rear end bolts and what not, i just want to drive this car.....

240sx clutches bolt right up too, its dogone weird.guy i know runs a 240sx act clutch in his z car, it grabs..

you cant handle what i smokes.