stravi757

I emailed the guy and asked him about the car just because and he said hes gotten a couple offers for 13,000 for it... i dont believe him

hey am i in the right thread, i have the calipers marked s12+8.

Hey guys, today my car developed a new problem. It was running perfectly fine previously. I read a couple threads relating to my problem but I didn't feel like they were exactly the same. the last thing i did before i had this problem was i replaced and gaped my spark plugs with new NGK r sparkplugs(air to fuel mixture looks perfect based off plugs, they were a brownish color). Im running a turbo motor in a 280z with the electronics froma 83 turbo motor excluding the ecu which is from an 82 automatic. My engine at idle will cut out for a second, or maybe even just half a second and then idle fine again. It does it randomly, sometimes it will do it a few times in a row and sometimes not at all. one thing that didn't seem normal to me is that, it hasn't happened to me once while driving, but when i come to a stop sign it will sometimes cut out for a sec. when i was reading another thread, the person was saying it would happen to them while driving.. Things ive tried: I rechecked all of my electrical connections. I unplugged and reconnected connections to the ECU I rechecked my timming checked all the connections on the plug wires and dizzy I checked to see if the AFM was stuck at all I checked battery connections checked grounds This problem seems like something electrical to me, im just not sure where the source of the problem is.

Well like i said before make sure about your connections and yes i would replace the water temp sensor. I had every problem 1badeagle described except for the power loss in my 280z, I cleaned ever connection and replaced the thermo time switch and water temp sensor and i never had a cold start problem again.

never mind, i figured it out.

Check and clean all of your electrical connections. I would start at the water temp sensor.

Hey guys, my old speedometer broke so i was about to put another one in that i got. it was working previously, but when I went to take it out to change the gauge face to the older style and then put it back on the needle only will turn the opposite way. I have no idea what happened.

You could try putting some oil in the cylinder and then do a comp test, if it goes up then you have a worn cylinder. But it could be a blown head gasket or maybe you need to adjust your valves...

Im still looking to see if anyone has put the 300zx seats from a z32 in a Z. Anyone seen it yet or have pics, im really thinking about doing it.

Only because i am the nicest person ever and a god ill give you a link. here you go. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121121&highlight=seat+swap+list book mark it, or try a simple search like seat swap list:)

Does anyone know whats the hottest the turbo on a oil cooled 280zx should be or what it should be at after warmup and once you have pushed the engine? just wondering.

well i popped off my valve cover and the oil looks fine(not milky) my coolant looks fine and the levels haven't gone down, i did a comp test and my numbers are good all across. so like i said earlier there was smoke coming from the turbo area. could the turbo seal have broke? because i cant think of where the oil would be burning. Oh and i was just wondering, is it possible to have my oil pressure sender on to tight that i would have been blocking oil from going into my turbo oil feed line?

ok so i have bubbles in my oil and white smoke after i turned the car off was coming from my turbo. not sure why tho and i did a comp test just now once again and my numbers are fine and also the last test drive i did i tried putting in a different ecu and it ran better. but i am still getting alot of smoke.

check connections to your alternator, is the belt on tight? did you touch anything else when you changed the water pump.

yes. and then sometimes it doesn't advance at all. Ok I tried it again and these were my results.Ii didnt advance the timing on the gun this time. the timing at idle was reading 20 degrees btdc, idle ranges between 670-720 mostly. when i gave it just a little gas the idle would retartd to 10 btdc, then when i reved it to about 4,000 the timing would read about 35-45 btdc(couldnt really tell because it was below timing marks. But sometimes it would go to 30 btdc. everytime i check this my numbers are never consistent and i dont know why.

so i put the timing light on it again and got some weird results. im not sure at what rpm the advance is supposed to come in, anyways. i put the timing light on and i advanced the timing on the gun 20 degrees so it would read at 0 degrees instead of 20 degrees btdc so i would be able to read the advance easier when revving . when i started reving the car at about 3,500 rpm the timing mark was reading at 30 degrees btdc from 0, i tried reving it again at about 3,100 rpm and the timing didnt advance at all it actually retarted about 5 degrees and my exhaust was poping the whole time...is there something wrong with my distributor now when i rev it to even just 1,300 rpm it advances to 30 from 0

im sure my timing indicators are on correctly and the pulley is stock. When i put my timing chain on i put the sprocket on number 2, was that right, and would it make a difference instead if i had put it on one? just wondering

your right, but i dont think its oil and my coolant level isnt going down. so ive been messing with the car for a while now and i still cant figure it out, i tried tightening the afm, that didn't work. my injectors sound fine. i dont hear any vacuum leaks. i tried a different set of plugs and wires. i rechecked all of my connections. and ive tried a bunch of other things that i cant think of right now.

that was pretty damn funny!

just get someone to help you fix it. id keep the v8 even though i like the l6, plus i can imagine how much fun it must be to have a v8.

how long ago/ where was that?

loose battery connection? for some reason this is already driving me crazy, can u just PM me the answer...i swear i wont tell anyone haha

good thread, maybe include when using an auto turbo engine remember to take off the spacer plate on the crank to save yourself hell.

I believe the sensor your talking about is located under the thermostat housing next to the water temp sender and thermo time switch on a 77 280z.

Its pretty easy, just start doing some searches like. l28et swap, turbo swap, n/a to turbo ect. don't get frustrated if you cant find what your looking for when you search, it will eventually pop up. just doing some reading on this site and you will figure it out. I came on this site with no mechanic skill at all, i didnt know a single thing about cars and i was able to do a turbo swap with no help. not trying to brag, just saying if i could do it anyone can. PS. make sure to bookmark threads on turbo swaps.