cygnusx1

I'm no electrical engineer but wouldn't an idle speed control routine be similar to the boost control routine? MS-II has IAC stepper control. Could that be used for boost control?

Oh Dayton huh? Did you find "Cheeks" yet? The girls are pretty but not so smart there. It's the only tata bar where I actually made money from a dancer! LOL.

I think it's a nice expansion on the product line. A good marketing move. I am going to start the teardown of my car this weekend and begin the long process of wiring in the MS-II, LC1, and plumbing in the AN fittings, injectors, fuel rail, filter, for the new fuel system. I am sure by the time I get it running well, I won't care that my ECU doesn't have a window in it. LOL. I just cant wait to get rid of that darn, "missisippi river looking" cold air intake with AFM and stick a cone air filter on the compressor directly!

Austin, where is that webpage that documented all the work you've done to it? Imma go buy that issue for sure. Congrats!

Nice. Clean up those floors man. Looks fast already though. Why is the tach at 2500rpm? is it running already?

http://www.diyautotune.com/products/eMS-Pro/Spectre_eMS-Pro.htm

You know the new guy is supposed to bring donuts right? J/K Pics Pleez!

Leaking or poorly set BOV? Pop off valve? Put check valves in all the vacuum lines going to the intake manifold. You dont want boost going into the vacuum lines!

Those look really nice. About twelve years ago I upgraded my originals with sealed beam halogens and they are pretty good. Someday I will upgrade again. These look like good bang/buck.

My car already rolled away on me once. I use a brick or a rock too. Leaving it in gear would work also if you could rig a solenoid to engage the flywheel ring gear somehow.

Aaron, The hard fuel lines are 5/16" so I am going to try using 5/16 tube compression fittings to -6 AN adapters. It would be tough to flare the tubes on the regulator so I am going to try the compression fittings. I realize that they are not the best case scenario but it seems like the easiest bolt-on way to go right now. AN-6 <---5/6" compression tube Bo, I am moving the regulator over to the right front inner fender where the fuel lines come up from the tank. This is to clean up the bay by minimizing hose clutter. If the compression fittings leak, I will flare or solder and/or get a new regulator with NPT fittings. The compression fittings are all going to be in a pretty safe spot on the right inner fender, should a small leak develop. The fuel rail will be a dead end even in the way I am plumbing it.

In the downloads section.

I am in the planning stages of the MS-II, Bosch 42# injectors, and JSK-O-ring rail. I am going to plumb the rail as a dead end rail as BRAAAP suggests will work fine. I am also going to use the stock ZXT regulator. The fuel tubing in the 280Z is very close to "5/16" to -6 AN compression adapter" so I will be using Tube-AN adapters like this: I am going to plumb the fuel supply tube from the tank into a "Tee". One leg of the "Tee" will go directly to the fuel rail. The other leg will be a fuel return and go to the regulator "in". The regulator "out" will go to the tank return line. The regulator will monitor manifold pressure with a vacuum hose. All braided lines will be terminated with these: or It's all going to be -6 size. A pressure gauge will be mounted on the end of the fuel rail near the firewall. I bought the stuff from: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/ IN | | "T" ------->RAIL>Gauge | | Regulator | | tank

Z-Ya, as far as I can tell the rim construction is very good. If I had to guess, the street Pansports "look" a bit tougher. These however have more spokes which are solid cast. Bottom line, quality is not an issue at all. They are well made. I would call the paint finish on them better than the Panasports.

If you go wider than 225 in the rear on my car you increase the chance of the fender slamming down onto the tire if you hit a dip. Right now, the lip has to come down about 3-4 inches to hit the sidewall. If you move the threads out with a wider tire, that clearance is rapidly lost. I think 235 would be ok but rub occasionally, and 245 would require some fender clearance work.

Very nice. That's how the engineers in Japan should have done it in the first place.

Clearance huh? Well I can tell you that the front rims have about 1/8" clearance to the spring pan. Not much. The rears have more clearance but not sure exactly how much. I am also running Arizona Z car 12.2" brake kit front and rear. I'll get some more pics today.

In some countries UPS is pronounced "OOPS".

Woohoo! Great news. Congrats! I am going to be performing the same surgery on my baby very soon. Mind sharing the msq file? The maps will be different but the setups should be very similar. Here is your video: http://media.putfile.com/77-280zt-MS-II sounds great. Thanks

Yup it's the MSA one but I got it long before MSA. I believe the company I got it from was "Impact Parts" in NY about 15 years ago.

Looks very well engineered. Very nice job.

I'll try to get a good close up side shot tonight. I drove the car to work today which is a 40 mile twisty backroad commute. There is one road that is similar to the tail of the dragon except it's only about 4 miles long. I think that on every curve I said, out loud, "Holy F%^#". I thought it handled well before. Now it is just plain insane. It has to be doing 1g easily. Not a squeel from the tires and it just wants more and more.

I finally installed the 16x8 0-offset wheels tonight. I have 225/50-16 BFG Comp T/A KD's on them. For fitment questions, the suspension is stock spring pans with 1" height reduction Tokico springs and camber bushings up front. The tires don't rub at all. I suspect that if I had alot of weight in the car and I hit a dip, they might rub the fender lip.

With an FMU and IC you can get upwards of 270rwhp and 300ft-lbs with that setup. I have the same setup as you with the FMU and Intercooler.

Did you take the coil spring out of the intake boot between the AFM and the turbo? I had a similar problem when the intake boot was collapsing from turbo suction. If so, put the coil spring back in the boot.