cygnusx1

 Keep on chugging! You have a lot of momentum.  The build will be finished before you know it.  Looks great so far. +1 on the turbo swap.Â

Me2!

 As far as I could tell, there was not one mention of Canon in the credits, nor were there any commercials for Canon during the episode.  I found out about the use of the DSLR for fiilming the episode, by hanging out on a photography forum.  I think I still have my Kodachrome, Mamma didn't take it. Â

 This is how you do it, if you want to do it.  Baracu's car.  No top at all.  I haven't seen a top worth putting on a vert Z.

It actually depends on the application. Â It depends on which way the torque is being applied to the ring gear by the pinion. Â The bottom line is that when the car is being thrust forwards, the torque on the ring gear should be forcing the left and right barrel gears away from eachother. Â FWD and RWD may require opposite gear arrangements. Â If you are putting it in a Z, go with our diagram. Â

My 280Z was there when they were filming some of this video (not shown ....notice he actually says 280Z in the video instead of Z28.)Â Â Â Last year when my 280 was rear ended, we ended up having it repaired there. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmGqDbHnly0

I vote quick fix and enjoy the car. Â Fix it, if and when, it really breaks. Â I have been saying to myself, "I need to rebuild my turbo motor" for about seven years now. Â In reality, I have gained seven years of use on a motor that was failing in my head. Â I hear a tick, see some oil, a drop of coolant, or a rattle, and my imagination runs wild. Â Sometimes, leaving it alone is not the bad option. I repeat, SOMETIMES....

Very nice! Â Congrats on the excellent home brew!

Hard to detect sarcasm. Â You aren't serious are you? Â Apparently I don't need a mustache bar on the back of my R200.

Finale was tonight. Â The camera work was great. Â Nice shallow DOF's. Â Read here http://www.gearlog.com/2010/05/house_finale_shot_on_a_dslr.php

Is this the normal mount in a ZX? Â What keeps the diff from twisting right out from under the car? Â The axles? Not.

The yellow lights keep them from noticing the missing front plate.Â

I LOVE exercise. Â I can watch it for hours on end. Tinted headlight film is universal, cut it yourself, stuff.

Nice starter. Â Plan ahead and stay true to your goals and it will work. JSM, so true these cars are generally almost 30 years older than this young generation. Â When I was 18, a 30 year old car would have been....a '56. Â No Z's to choose from in '56 Â Â

Unfortunately, I don't have a PB Bunny to show, but you can make any lights yellow with adhesive films from xpel.com  I just put them on the 240 I just finished.

Yes, the dip in the center of the bar is a dead giveaway of a 280Z rear bar. Â Here is a 240Z Rear bar, rear mount. Here is the only photo I have of my 280Z rear bar partially removed.

 Good luck.  I think you'll be happy with it.

    I know typically an engine will suck oil through the rings and the valve guides on decel.  Leaking guides will also puff smoke when the engine first starts.  Here is what my old beat up L28ET does: Starts up with no smoke.  Start to drive it and during decel it smokes lightly.  When you get back on the throttle, you get a decent puff of smoke.  It is oil, I can smell it as such.  After the car has warmed up (10-15 minutes or so), you don't get much smoke when decelerating or re-accelerating anymore.  Where is the oil most likely coming from?  The head was recently rebuilt by a reputable engine shop where the guides were in spec, and the valves and seals were replaced.  The motor has about 160K on it and it works hard, pulls very strong, and had clean bores when the head was off about 5K miles ago.  It did the same thing before the head was replaced.  I am thinking rings... compression test was done a long time ago...I guess it's time to do it again.  Typically will oil burn from rings improve that much as the engine warms up even with the stock cast pistons? Â

Don't assume you need to flip the gears. Â Only some are wrong. Â But yes, just flip them over like a flapjack.

First thing to look for is to make sure they are a matched set. Â Although mixed sets can work. Â It's "cheap insurance" if they all have the same ID type/vintage. Â They did vary over the years. Â Make sure they open and shut smoothly; no bent throttle shafts. Look for fire damage. Â Look for cracks in the castings (not common). Â

Orange peel in the rattle can clear coat? 1000 grit wet block sand, Â medium buffing compound, and about an hour of labor, you get this!

Absolutely love it! Â

 OK Double my $50 because since the color didn't quite match, I did it ALL over again.  Whew!  Here are pics that I took.  I just finished compounding.  I can't work tomorrow because it's Mother's Day, so I burned some midnight oil getting it done tonight. Primer Again! Painted, Clear coated, and 1000 grit wet sanded. Compounded The paint is different than the original paint in color and type but from 10 feet away you can't tell.  Here is a closeup of the flaw in paint type. Notice the "color grain" in the door and not on the original fender paint. The color grain was caused by me spraying a light red and a darker red onto the door, layering them to get the correct overall color.  I wish I would have had the facility to mix my own paint instead of layering two colors to get the closest match. After wetsanding the clear, you can wet the paint to see what the final buffed door will look like.

 Great footage!  I love the Super Nanny looking car!  The 'ghini driver drives like Carlos Sainz...wiggly wheel.Â