Evlevo

I could have sworn i saw the other day a Z parts website that had these listed. Not sure if they had any in stock but check around. I even revisited the ones i normally check and couldn't find it. Maybe i'm goin' crazy.

Would you be apposed to hiring someone to do some frame work? (as a bodyman) id suggest getting a pull done first. Even if you do section out the damaged/kinked areas, pulling the damage first can help with new part alignment and possible hidden damage/indirect damage. EDIT: I think most of it is repairable, with maybe a section of the frame rail being replaced.

when i pulled mine in favor of an SR, I also pulled it complete. I was stupid and pulled it with the shifter on which made for some interesting maneuvering, but it can be done.

That's exactly what i was getting at. If your towers are flapping in the wind, so would anything attached to them. Locking down any chassis flex would fix this issue.

I think that should do the trick!

I see what you mean yes, but i was thinking more up/down side/side motions from the strut tower itself flexing in compairson to the position to the MC under hard cornering and big bumps. Just seems to be there would still be other flex and stress forces that could cause rubbing in a chassis as flexy as these cars are.

Would a thin bushing between the brace and the MC be of any benefit? Seems like movement may wear away metal if flex is bad in other directions.

Heres more info of the original pictures for anyone interested. I like it. http://www.diseno-art.com/encyclopedia/concept_cars/datsun_240z_concept.html

I did a quick google earlier when i read this. I think if you really have your heart set on it, youre best bet would be to get a RWD trans from another GM. I came across a few forums that mentioned using an S10 trans with some mods? If you dont mind switching to a different trans and having a driveshaft made i think youll be in luck.

Different product out there can be cast to what ever you want and cure to a nice product you can replace dam near every bushing in your car with. Some 2 parts can even be poured they are so thin before they cure. Flexane is a popular one ive seen, 2 part box liners, windshield urethane.... The shore ratings are different for them all, some even available in multiple strengths. The possibilities are endless. I didnt know a product like this existed packaged/advertised towards the car crowd. Thanks for the link! Not nessessarly stronger than rubber, but depending on the rating it could be stiffer. When OP says he wants stronger mounts i assume he means stiffer. Id bet most of us are not putting down the kinda power that makes engines leap from the bay.

If you have the know-how, have you considered re-casting your original mounts with new urethane? Much cheaper and will give you the results youre looking for. Im running a custom trans mount on my Daily 2012 impreza i made due to the bounce of the driveline/shifter on gravel. Its damn near solid yet still comfortable.

I liked it till i converted the prices!

Im curious to see how this turns out. I always like seeing what people manage to wedge into different cars.Maybe with the SR20 aging the ford ecoboost will become more common and easily available?

Does it light up but its kinda dim? Sounds like a bad common ground and its back feeding (grounding) through the marker light/dash light circuit.

I suppose i shall post my wheels finally. Not sure if im going to keep them. I like the fitment but with the stock steering ratio + my s13 suspension (thats unfinished) the wheel hits the frame rail before full lock. with proper camber, toe and tierods that are not too short, they might be ok. they are a high offset 16x8 wheels of an undetermined brand. I had them painted at work a Honda black that has blue pearl in it and said "dump a bunch more pearl in it"

Everything I could find points to ebay origin fakes, just a cheap seat a company throws NISMO on. Those ones even look cheap. Might make good gaming chairs if the price is right. A Metal frame doesnt mean they are safe.

Awesome build! Cant wait to see the end result!

I've always had a good laugh when someone posts asking about electric super chargers, but seeing Eaton is involved now, this has me interested. Ill have to watch the video when i return home this evening.

I would suggest having more push rather than a pull type system. Paint booths do have both intake an exhaust fans, but usually have a slightly positive pressure. This helps prevent dust sucking in through cracks un filtered.

Its in the same position due to the forces on the wheel not the position of the tension rod. If you were referring to them as inside and outside, then it would be different. I think this is a case of reference location confusion. Rear tension rod, under braking it compresses the inner bushing. Front tension rod under braking it compresses the outer bushing. in both these cases they are the "front bushings" on their respective cars.

If youre up for it and can handle the math, id recommend pulling a wheel off and doing the measurements to find out exactly where it would sit. You know the width of the wheel/offset and how much the flares would add. It would be pretty easy to see where the wheel would sit.

Judging by the pictures your car looks better than most. If you have the spare cash or know a guy who can hook you up i would jump on getting it blasted.,Fix the little spots you need fixed, get it blasted, then epoxy the whole thing. invest in a pressure pot and even put epoxy inside the rails and rockers. your repairs will mean nothing if you dont coat the back sides too. Edit: I wish mine looked as solid as yours.

Love it and never let it go! Every time i see a picture of a 1200 i die a little inside remembering i sold mine. It was scary in the rain, it was slow, but hell was it fun to drive.

Looks awesome. That color is beautiful!

The bodyshop or paint supplier should have paint decks. Each code should be on the back. often with the manufacturer name as well. Long as you have that code any shop should be able to match it.