jacky4566

Butternut it sounds like you need to learn more about what Megasquirt is, and how the system works in whole. If you want to run a full sequential injection and ignition Megasquirt requires 3 critical pieces of timing information. When is the crankshaft at TDC. Where is the crankshaft in relation to TDC. Where is the camshaft in relation to the crankshaft. Also known as phasing. (remember that the camshaft spins at half the crankshaft speed) So. In relation to the above. The Jeep CAS ONLY provides you with the camshaft phasing. Or in more simpler terms, is cylinder 1 on a compression stroke or an exhaust stroke? Of course if you only want sem-sequential or Batch fire. Then you don't need the cam phase at all. IMO full sequential is overkill for an occasional/ race driver but I like to tinker so here it is. To answer your question, the Jeep CAS replaces the dizzy yes, but does not provide all the information required by megasquirt. You still need to know the crankshaft position via a 36-1 trigger wheel or other. And no, a sensor can not control spark, the megasquirt does all that with input from sensors like this. If you want the easiest way to get timing information to megsquirt, then by all means grab a 82/3 turbo dizzy. I just think they are ugly and wanted to make this work.

The only thing I don't like about these turbos is the "Technical guide" kinda sucks as a technical document. Maybe i'm a picky engineer but. What is the max EGT? What is the max turbine speed? How much oil pressure? What are all the tolerances for the bearings? What is the output signal of the speed sensor. For a 126 page document there is sure a lot of bullshit non-information.

If your doing a drag car i would suggest installing a solid axle. Its going to save alot of headache and even the wimpiest ones can support tons of power.

Well the first thing would be to figure out if the heater core is leaking or the valve. You might not need to touch the core as they were build fairly good.

I got my HFM5 from the junkyard. Just look at VW, Audi, and BMW products and it will jump out very quickly. Its typically bolted to the airbox right on top. They come in various sizes so try to find one that will flow 120% of your target HP. Using this datasheet you can see all the models of HFM5. Ignore the junk yard part numbers since there is 100s for the same MAF. VW loves to have unique part numbers for no reason. What you want to do is find the right MAF based on the connection diameter and match that to this datasheet. http://www.maf2maf.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Bosch-HFM5-Sensors.pdf To convert. 1kg/h = roughly 0.347HP. I am using the 0 280 218 019 since the 70mm housing was easiest to connect. So far i'm flowing around 400kg/h max. PM if you need help setting it up.

1) You need a rear sump from the sc400. There are also conversion kits sold on various other forums. Or do a Dry sump $$$ 2) - 3) Personally i would junk the current ECU for a megasquirt. Way more tunability and no need to muck about with immobilizers and 100 useless sensors. 4) Just look for a remote starter "immobilizer defeat device"

That model of HE351 should be VGT so you will need a controller. Search for "little black box" also the megasquirt crowd is just starting to figure out how to control these things too. Any turbo that cheap i would get inspected before buying. Generally turbos are not really long lasting parts and need regular rebuilding if you want peak power.

If you want CHT, Westach has a variety of Under Sparkplug Ring Type and Thread In Type Thermocouples. But really CHT is best used for Off-road, Diesel, Marine and small engines which can have cooling problems.

Why are you installing a CHT? It's not really necessary unless you are expecting crazy high head temperatures. Just keep the coolant under control. If you are expecting big barometric pressure changes, especially on a high strung NA, then yes i would recommend a second sensor for baro correction. The map daddy upgrade is easy to install but just about any 5v sensor will work. What manifold are you using? My personal suggestion would be to go with a MAF. Bosch HFM5 are great sensors. This will compensate for Baro and IAT and should work better in high lift cam scenarios where you don't have very good idle vaccum.

Second page boss http://skillard.com/t/s30-240z-260z-280z?page=2

Speedhut will do custom faces for $10. You just need to design the gauge yourself from the templates. Easy peasy. grannyknot are those 3-3/8" duels? Speedhut doesn't make 2-5/8" duels.

Last I heard from Hoke is he was targeting April for prototyping. He does good work but I believe it's a side thing for him. Nicksturboz have you investigated the transmission mount, driveshaft, and shifter mount? All those things will need to be changed too and you would probably get more sales as a complete kit or at least instructions. I'm still on the fence with what to do with my 73 so I say, interested but not putting down any money.

There is more 11mm high impedance injectors to choose from. And if its a problem you can always drill the rail bigger with a special (read pricey) bit.

whiteheadperformance.com Also carries them. Good deal for Canadians.

It sounds like you have lots of reading to do. My knowledge is with megasquirt so here are my answers. 1- do i need to have a fuel pump installed? If so, how to setup a fuel pump? Does it required a control unit to tell the fuel pump when to start and...? Yes. Fuel requirements for EFI are much higher than carbs. You will need a high pressure pump either in-tank, inline, or in a surge tank. Additionally: appropriate injectors, FPR, and Fuel Rail. Megasquirt will control most pumps just fine and even some PWM pumps 2- is there any things that i need to be aware of? Lots. I suggest reading the megasquirt "Getting Started". This should answer most of your questions and some. Anyone getting into megasquirt really needs to grasp the concepts of VE tables and timing systems. 3- if i go with carbs, can i still run turbo? See Chickenman's answer

Have you considered using the RB flywheel? They are rather cheap and allow either 350z clutch or L28et clutch. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124844-confirmed-l28-with-rb25-flywheel-and-350z-clutch/?p=1167280

I went a little crazy since I wanted ALL the features. Using a HFM5 MAF makes tuning really easy FYI. This is my build: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=63609 If i was to go back i would really consider the microsquirt. It's basically a mini MS2 and would be perfect for us weekend drivers who arnt racing and dont need a million I/O.

A spartan2 is only $125.00 so If you have an MS3x then another sensor is relatively cheap add. If you are wanting to ek out more power then go for it. Could also be used to get high lean conditions when cruising for fuel economy.

I know MS3 can do that but why would you want this? You're just wasting I/O. Split the VSS signal from the sensor and feed it directly to the gauge and MS. Also the Speedhut GPS Speedo is miles better than the sensor based one.

Right. I think jy.s30z is talking about using factory pieces you still get a deck height of 0.5 mm (.020"). OP have you verified all those measurements yourself? Also subbed for answer.

You dont really NEED a TPS for megasquirt. Accel enrichment can be done off MAP and i've yet to need flood clear mode. That being said NewZed has it right. Get a proper linear potentiometer. It make it much easier to datalog and there are many fun features that need it.

Use whoever is local. My guy is super fast and managed to convince me to upgrade to EV14 which have been great. Performance Fuel Injection performancefi@yahoo.ca http://stores.ebay.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection?_rdc=1

REALLY? Good to know this. Is this just 2 more red LED? Speedhut has good service but their website is kinda lacking some detail. The gauge templates also lack dimension which really bugs me when designing custom stuff. Still waiting for my dream gauge 4.5in 0-200km/h GPS W/ Fuel.

What is that?! Sort looks like an X-16? Like 2 VR8 jammed together at 180 degrees.

I made the list! Thanks. FYI Technically you could combine my cam trigger with a flywheel trigger for a "duel wheel no missing teeth". No counterweighting!